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Thanks for coming. That will be all. PS. Bring back Bartman! He at least made me laugh...

Aluminum versus steel means nothing without specifics. If you're going to buy a frame specifically for this project, I'd get some with with track ends or sliders so you don't have to mess with a tensioner. There are a lot of used frames on the market with this feature.

City of Rocks, near Silver City, New Mexico. Somewhere around 1988.

I've successfully put tube patches on the inside of the tire to seal punctures, so you might try that before throwing it in the bin. Don't see Schwalbe locally much, I used to buy them from starbike.com or bike-discount.de which are much cheaper than buying domestically, but you have to wait a couple weeks for shipping from Germany. Otherwise, I have at least one old Hans Dampf (29x2.35) with some miles left I'll give you if you are near southwest Austin.

Yes, the niner EBB was crap. I used a blackspire bb tensioner to convert this klunker to a SS a few years ago.Worked fine.

Your comment took an alternate route.

That's exactly what I was going to reply with. Is there a way to setup an auto-reply to that question?

Yes. Please buy beer.

Hello nasty

I'll walk 1/4 and RJob next week if anyone wants to join me in the AM whatever day works. I'll break it into 2 days. I can be out there about 830AM any day Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Or pronounce them like the British Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Exactly … so why then post a thread with the question ….. Where's the sweet spot...? Are you really that interested in knowing what type of cassette everybody is riding on and why? Personally, I ride whatever came on my bike, including my 2014 Remedy that came with a 3X and I converted to a 1X but kept the same 11-36 cassette.

Honestly, that's what I would have done with it. Cash!

Garmin isn't there yet, apparently.

IMO the Eno eccentric isn't worth the hassle. I had one on an old 26er and it would occasionally loosen up but more problematic for me was that style of mounting a cog, freewheels. If I do another singlespeed I'll use a splined interface, like a mini cassette freehub. Pulling off a freewheel can be a super PITA. Also, the eccentric meant that you changed the geometry and brake pad interface a little depending on how you mounted it. Also, you have to have a specific wheel built up so it isn't the cheapest option. Beautifully made components (White Industries). Just get tensioner and be done with it.

Lots of good info/advice... Thanks, I appreciate it. I'm going to breakdown the North Star today and see what's what. I'll post photos.

You can use old cassette spacers, BB spacers, or even segments of carefully cut PVC pipe for spacers. I have a handful of spacers to donate if you need them. I am sure YBP has 80 linear feet of such spacers kicking around. I might still have a steel 16t cog that will work so long as you don't put it on an aluminum freehub. Aluminum freehubs are soft and require a wide-base cog like that Surly or they dig into the freehub. If you have a steel freehub, those hold up better with cheap, thin cogs.

Freehub + single speed cog + spacers = single speed hub. I have a Hadley hub on mine that could take a regular cassette but it's only seen more than one gear a few times. For a freewheel hub, the freewheel will be set very far inboard of the ideal chainline. I would not want to space the freewheel out by more than a few mm because it needs to engage the treads on the hub as much as possible. It might be possible to space the chainring in to match, but that's not ideal. There will be a huge space between the drive side dropout and the freewheel too. To resolve that, you can remove the axle and rearrange the spacers on the axle so the freewheel lines up better with the chainring. However, that will throw off the wheel dish, making the tire sit very off-center in the frame. It might be possible to correct this with spoke tension, but most likely the DS spokes will be far too short and the NDS spokes far too long. The best cheap fix for that is to completely unlace the wheel and rebuild it with the spokes on the opposite sides of the hub. I've done this. It's time-consuming but worth it if you're a tightwad like me.

No. You buy a spacer kit (I love Endless Bike Co's Fibonacci spacer kit), buy a cog, remove cassette, put your SS chainring on, then use spacers to give you the optimal chainline.

I've never been a fan of the conversion kits to be honest. I had a frame that I used a singulator on, but while it worked, it never really felt as good as a true SS setup. EBBs tend to by creaky from what I've heard, but don't have any personal experience with them.

You'll probably want 32x18 around here, maybe 32x20 depending on fitness. When I raced SS in Cat2/3SS, I'd use 32x18 at most areas but swap out to 32x20 for Rocky Hill and Flat Creek. 32x16 for Coldspring.

ahh yisssss, Edge fo tweezy...

Unless you can find "that magic gear" in correlation to our CS length, you will need some kind of tensioner. IMHO the proper tensioner device is pretty cheap and does the job well (Surly Singulator?), but I've seen a derailuer rigged up to work too. -CJB

Use a single-specific chainring and cog. Don't repurpose a single cassette cog or middle ring designed for shifting. It will fall off at the worst possible time. Use whatever chain. 8-9 speed chains are great. Anything to do with half-links is a last resort. Surly, DMR, Paul, YESS, Blackspire, various generic options, etc tensioners all work about the same. I had good luck with a DMR model, no bouncing!

Let me know the details of when you guys want to meet up. I’d be down. Doesn’t have to be a large group, but we could also break off to handle trimming other trails.

He was also very adamant about the sanctity of maintaining trails and not modifying them. Unlike some people...

Funny thing is, if he were here...I wouldn't have him on ignore.

I'm a fan of anything which has no plastic parts, especially in the Texas heat. We've had a 2" 1Up with add-on rack for a few years now, and I recently found, buried away in their website, a $99 add-on rack hitch mount. So now I have two 1Up racks, one for each vehicle. https://www.1up-usa.com/product/add-on-hitch-adapter/

Especially because of how hard it is to spell derailleur 🤣

Message me, and I'll walk it with you.

The first mod I did to my FS bike was ditching the front mech. Never a regret.

I personally always go a gear higher then I think I need.

That is good to know. I find it maddening to transfer files to my 520+ from RidewithGPS. It should be way easier. I'll give Trailforks a try. Thanks!

I did some hand trimming at DD last week. There was one section where the cedar was blocking the sightline on a g-out. Lots of spots on 1/4 too. I have been riding with only a bottle though. I'll try to bring my pack with pruners and folding saw next time.

I think we're all safe on this one. I don't know a single person running a Rotor drivetrain. They're the company that makes a hydraulic shift system. Oh great something else that needs to be bled.

That's exactly why I prefer BCGB as the meat in my Soutie/greenbelt sandwich.

I'm a turntable whore. Here's a recent AR refurb.

So good

god damn, forgot how good this was.