RedRider3141

It felt like 10 minutes, I thought we were all living life by how we feel now?

My turn, I had a pleasant ride on SN Sunday morning, weather was good, bike was doing good. about 1/4 mile from the car I carelessly drifted off the trail and jerked back on to the trail right through a sapling stump cut 2-3" high. OTB I went with my bike somersaulting behind me. Somehow, I got away only with a good scrape on most of my right forearm, a decent scrape on my right knee and a dirty bike. I'm pretty shocked that It wasn't worse but fortunately it was on a pretty smooth/soft section of SN. In the 10 minutes it took me to hit the ground and stop rolling all I could think of was this thread and what I was in for...

I got the wolf-tooth bag, super high-quality, very tough, but ultimately too small for what I wanted to put in it (cell phone) so now my 4yo uses it to store sunglasses, stickynotes and barbie shoes. https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/barbag

Medium or smaller large.

I'm not sure If SS is for me, I actually like shifting but having the ability to run a 1X drive train would be ideal. Drop bars are new to me but I have seen some on gravel bikes that do look interesting. What's the point of drop bars? aero? comfort? The few times I've ridden they seem so narrow and twitchy, probaly from lack of experience.

I did try brake clean and sanding on top of a granite tile to keep the surface flat and that helped some but not enough. I didn't get rid of them so maybe I'll try the torch. Why do y'all prefer metallic?

Exactly, any recommendations on a frame/ bike to start with?

I got tired of my poor brake performance on my rear SLX brakes compared to my fronts. With 180mm rotors I could not lock up the rear and it squealed terribly. It's possible that they got contaminated but they've never been good as long as I can remember. I noticed the rears were metallic and fronts were organic so I decided to buy new rear pads to match the front. After throughly cleaning the rear rotor and installing the pads it's night and day how much better it is. What brake compound do you guys/gals run?

I got to ride this today and it made me a appreciate it on BCRT more than my 2.4" MTBs. Now I kinda want to find something similar and build it up. Either way, this was an interesting/new bike to me, has one of those biopace ovals on it, which I found to be pretty unnoticeable compared to my AB oval on my MTB.

Thanks mack! $20 later she's all set with a new chainring and bling chain!!

2X curb height, at least. We can't all be Seths.

Old Timer.

Yeah, I haven't been on peddlers in awhile so last time I saw it was in good shape but a lot can happen in busy trails. Whole thing looks great BTW! I like the cedar fence rails and new berms on the Eastside. Watch out in the roller coaster/roost section, the dry leaves on the last turn make it super loose.

I've been using Garmin Handheld units for 25 years and they and all handheld units will take some time to reacquire a satellite fix if they have been off for some time, especially if they battery was removed/went dead. The more recently on it was the quicker the fix, this has improved greatly over the generations of units with things in WAAS, etc. In general my Garmin (none bike specific) have been tanks and survived many bike/motorcycle crashes without issue. I have had some PC connection issues but I blame windows for always forgetting its drivers and needing to reinstall every flippin' time. Here's a pic of my Garmin in action. It came out completely unscathed:

Rode last night, Mulligan, Picnic out and back and then peddlers. Definitely bonked halfway through Peddlers. Drank 100oz including one NUUN filled bottle. Felt ok until bedtime and then the familiar headache came on. I concur its from drinking straight water without any supplements, I should just have a NUUN or suck some pickle juice when I get home.

What happened to the mini drop on Peddlers right after you cross W-E under Parmer? I'm not good at drops but I enjoyed that one for practice.

Agreed, 100% but one of the reasons why people go to the dealer is because they are supposed to be subject matter experts in their own product, Nissan cars used the same basic engine architecture from 94 to current across a wide variety of models. I was able to find my answer on an internet forum post from 5 years previous. Bikes are a bit different in this area, branding isn't super specific as to maintenance and repair, at least not to the extent of automotive. It's always been interesting to me how components are brand agnostic for the most part between bike brands.

The problem is that in an affluent area of that Nissan dealer, the shady practices just led to more vehicle sales and blindly happy customers.

Yeah, the times I've decided to let a plumber handle it was well worth it.

I think where Automotive or bike shops become a scam is not when they charge you for something that you probably can do yourself but when they "diagnose" some thing to drum up business. I've noticed that users have a much higher opinion of LBS on bicycle forums vs car/truck/motorcycle forums where they dealers are called "stealerships". Long winded example from years ago where I am obviously still slighted... I had a Nissan Dealer in a rather affluent area diagnose my '01 pathfinder with a Check Engine Light. I do all my own maintenance and many repairs but I was having trouble tracking down a specific code that could have been 6 different things. I figured the dealer could use their proprietary scan tool to get more than the P Code and tell me the issue. They came back with a $6K repair estimate on a 14 year old car with a 150K miles. Their claim: Engine Sludge was causing issues in the valve train. Their solution: replace the entire upper half of the engine. When I pointed out that a brand new engine usually runs $5-6K and that after their work I'd sill have a bottom end with 150K miles on it the repair advisor just shrugged and said that most people just have the repair done or buy a new car. I ended up going home, looking in the valve cap and seeing a perfectly clean engine with no evidence of sludge so I did one more diagnosis myself based on some internet advice and replaced a $40 sensor in <5min. 60K miles later I've had no issues. The great thing was on the repair estimate none of it should the sensor replacement, just everything around it.

Only if you keep your weight off the front wheel! 😉

How would one go about finding bigger/smaller cogs for my daughters Hot rock? It is a single speed coaster and it flys on the BCRT but her feet are hardly moving on gentle single track so I'd like to gear it down a bit.

Really neat bike build, I don't know why, just clean bike and clean video: