crankin

25 minutes ago, ATXZJ said:

the description shows it has 32 hole wheels. doubtful the spokes will be the right length for these wtb but stranger things have happened. You want em they're yours and ill throw in some tubeless valvestems and some brand new WTB trail boss tires.

all for free to a good cause if you get this crap out of my life

ATXZJ. I’ll take you up on your offer and I’ll give lacing a wheel a shot. How can I get your contact info? 

27 minutes ago, mack_turtle said:

Google "how to build a bicycle wheel." I've built dozens. It's not hard. Someone offered you a free rim. Measure the hub and use one of the many free spoke calculators out there to figure it out.

REI has gone downhill since I worked there if they think your bike has a 115mm axle.  There are skewers that are 115, but most axles are either 100mm or 110mm aka "boost."

What specific bike is it?

I only ask because I am trying to empower you to save yourself money and get your kid back on the trail. You can do this.

It’s a Co-op DRT 1.1. I’ve tried to find out some details about the hub but haven’t had any luck. 

27 minutes ago, mack_turtle said:

Define "cheap" with a specific number. You can re-lace one of these rims to the old hub for the cost of a fistfull of spokes. Lacing wheels is not rocket science. DIY or die!

Finding a 27.5" wheel at YBP is very unlikely!

 

115mm QR hub? That's a new standard to me.

I always thought building wheels was a costly endeavor, but I have no experience. REI were the ones that told him 115mm and I haven’t had a bike with QR since the 90’s. Also, with all the different spoke sizes I’d have no idea where to start. 

34 minutes ago, ATXZJ said:

i have two WTB frequency team i23 hoops that are 32h you can have. no dents , dings and roll true

 

 

ATXZJ, I really appreciate the offer but this is an entry level REI bike and my son just started riding so I don’t know if he’ll stick with it. He is going to try Yellow bike for some cheap options. 

4 hours ago, mack_turtle said:

What size rim?

More spoke might not necessarily help. A strong rim and properly tensioned spokes will go a long way.

27.5

A couple more details. It’s a 115mm QR hub with a disk brake(not sure of rotor size). He’s on the heavier side so I’d like to put on something that’s a bit sturdier.

Son recently got into riding and taco’d his front wheel. It’s a QR and REI quoted about $100 for a new one. Is it worth it or should I look around for a better quality wheel for him? Already tried to call Yellow bike, but I think they’re closed due to COVID.

2 hours ago, MrTheCatLady said:

 

Hey Folks,

This is not a question; this is my commentary on some vids/articles I've seen recently (links below).  In a nutshell:  WTF are these people thinking when they are calling a $3000 full-sus bike "budget" or "affordable" or "entry-level"?

I understand that "a good, affordable, entry-level MTB" (AGAELMTB) means different things to different people, depending on their trail exposure and riding experience.  ATX trails are mostly XC + tech, but everywhere else (it seems) the trails are less pedal-y and more downhill-y.  But I think that there are plenty of DH-y trails out there that are completely rideable on a hardtail.  So IMHO, AGAELMTB basically has to be a hardtail (not full-rigid), and not come from a big-box store.  That's it. If you want to go a little nicer, then of course the sky's the limit.  I'd look for a bike with:

• Threaded stem
• Tapered steerer tube
• Disc brakes
• 31.6mm seat post diameter
• 2x drive train

IMHO these are features that set you up well for future upgradeability if you so desire.  But they are in no way necessary on an entry-level MTB.

To give concrete examples, I believe all of these bikes fit the AGAELMTB bill:

• Trek 820 ($400)
• Specialized Pitch ($500)
• Fuji Adventure 27.5 ($400)

I guess the way I think about it is that the $400-$1000 range is for those who want to get into MTB on a budget, and not be immediately hampered by their bike.  Anything beyond that is for folks who want specific components or types of components, like this type of drive train or that frame material, etc.  But even then, $400 is a lot of money for a high-school kid who doesn't have a job.  Or a college kid.  Or a recent graduate.  Or lots and lots of families with both adults working and N+1 mouths to feed.  Or lots and lots of people in general.  So I think stating that $3k is a good place to start is at best blissfully ignorant of most folks' financial reality, at worst snide and disingenuous.

And I also think that if you buy a MTB from Wal-Mart, most of which clearly state "not trail-rated" on the sticker, then that's perfectly fine too, but you might spend a lot of time maintaining it, and might also find that it is not as upgradeable as you want it to be.  If all you have is $100, though, then all you have is $100, and you either buy the bike you can afford or you don't.

-cls

Videos that triggered me:

 

 

You too good for a 30.9mm seat post...Size Queen

Anyone know if it’s dry enough yet

3 hours ago, RidingAgain said:

Maybe the fool is the one who thinks they have the ground to judge who is a fool.

34 minutes ago, MrTheCatLady said:

crankin', I'll sell you the RockShox Reverb Stealth 31.6 (x150mm, I think) from my brand-new SC 5010 for $200.  I'll sell you the whole thing - lever, cable, post, and all.  I don't know much about it; I guess it has the new-style lever you want.  There is nothing wrong with it as far as I can tell; I just don't like the action as compared to my cheap-ass Brand-X I have on my other MTB.  I have literally 2 rides on this thing, maybe 25 miles total. Please let me know if you are interested.

I'm no good with hydraulics so I am going to take the bike to the shop this weekend and have them swap in a KS Lev I have lying around spare.  So the RS should be available this weekend or early next week.

-cls

I need a 30.9. I really like the reverb, but this is my second one and I’m looking for something more durable. I can’t decide between the Oneup or PNW Bachelor 

I need to either have my reverb rebuilt or switch to a different dropper. If I get it rebuilt I would like to switch to the newer lever but I don’t know if I would just be better off changing brands. 

How’s it looking?

Is there any trail rideable tomorrow? At this point I’m willing to fix anything I fuck up. 

1 hour ago, Morealice said:

Wondering if Pace Bend got hit....anyone know? This quote from yesterday doesn’t sound good 

edit: “Thanks. Crankin and I got rained on after about an hour at Pace Bend. Lots of riders coming in when we left waiting on it to stop. Was going to be slick as hell out there after that heavy of a rain.”

I’m not sure if Pace Bend got hit but it’s rained three separate times in Lakeway since 6:00 this morning 

Looking for anyone who wants to ride Pace Bend one on Saturday or Sunday mornings. I’ve been riding alone for around six years, but I need to branch out. I average around 8 mph out there and stop a few times. 

2 hours ago, Shinerider said:

Their other models:

 

And I would so rock the duallies vs. single tire setup

 

Or, dual outboard disks

 

How DARE you ruin my snide comment with research. Good day sir

So, only front brakes. I don’t see how that would ever be a problem.

Is Pace Bend rideable? I was thinking about hitting it after work tomorrow (6:45 or so)

Pace Bend is where I usually ride and i think it got around 4 inches of rain this week, so I’m guessing it’s out. Is Reveille Peak the only trail that’s open?