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Chief

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Chief last won the day on October 15

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  1. The point of the video was to give another method other than the traditional syringe or lever bleed. In the very beginning they mention this was a method recommended by a Shimano team mechanic to get a solid bleed. Bleeding the newer Shimano brakes can be frustrating at times leaving people with a wandering bite point, pump up issue or soft lever feel. I recently replaced a rear brake line on my recent build, I used the syringe at the caliper with the cup at the lever. Filled cup halfway with fluid, filled syringe with fluid and pushed everything up to the top. Brake feels fine but I have done this with Shimano brakes in the past getting varying results. Thought that a gravity bleed was a good method especially if you're performing other services you can let gravity do its thing while you do other things on the bike.
  2. Pretty simple way to get a proper bleed. Don't know that it would work with all brands, but don't see why not.
  3. Chief

    Buds Required

    Van Halen III was the worst incarnation of the band. I bought the CD and quickly realized it was absolutely unlistenable, Gary Cherone was awful. I traded the CD for a Kenny Wayne Shepherd CD no comparison. The last album they did is really good. As much of an asshole as David Lee Roth is he was an integral part of the band for that Van Halen sound.
  4. Chief

    Buds Required

    I've seen them three times and like you said Eddie doesn't disappoint.
  5. Also would like to mention the whole sit bone measurement thing. I see it as propaganda that the manufacturers sell us to get us to buy a product. Here's why sitting on a piece of gel pad or cardboard or some special material that reacts to the heat of your body doesn't give a clear indication of how you sit on your bike. Nobody sits on their bike the same way you'd sit on a chair or flat surface this is why I don't think this measurement method works. Yes granted some people have found a good saddle using this method but chances are they fall into the former category of someone who could probably ride anything. I've done the gel pad the cardboard and the heat reactive and have never gotten a saddle that feels right to me. The first saddle that I really liked was a saddle that I wouldn't have even considered as a good choice. That saddle was the Fizik Kurve Chameleon. The reason I never considered it was because to look at it, it has very sharp edges but from the first ride I was like this is the one. I still have that saddle but Fizik discontinued it so when I wanted a new saddle for my bike the Antares R3 was the closest profile. The Antares is a much more comfortable saddle than the Kurve was it has more sit bone support and is firmer with just the right amount of flex. One last thing most major brands of saddles WTB,Terry, Selle Italia are all made by the same company. https://velosaddles.us
  6. Yes, and then there are the people who can ride any saddle without any issues.
  7. Sit bone measurement never worked for me. I've tried just about every saddle you can think of. More important than sit bone width for me is saddle profile/shape. A 142mm wide saddle that has a domed shape does not have 142mm of available real estate. I've found that a saddle with no more than 10mm of padding and a flexible shell works best for me. WTB saddles IMO are the worst out there they run too narrow have too much padding and a ridiculous transition from top to sides very square. When you find the right saddle you'll know it, the right saddle IMO is one that I can get on even after being off the bike for weeks and not have any discomfort. My current saddle is a Fizik Antares R3 large 152mm wide and a flat but not too flat profile 7mm of firm padding and a carbon nylon shell that flexes. I can spend all day on it with no issues. One of the most important aspects of the right saddle is one that you are able to sit squarely on your sit bones. Too much padding has a tendency to restrict blood flow and compress nerve endings leading to discomfort. This is such a subjective topic and trying to find that goldilocks saddle can take a lot of time, keep trying different saddles you'll eventually find the right one. Another saddle that I find comfortable is a Brooks Cambium it's a rubber nylon shell with material bonded to it and zero padding but it has a large amount of flex and is kind of like a hammock for your ass. Only downside is they are heavy AF.
  8. I've noticed at Brushy when it's dry there is a ton of scree that winds up on the trail but after a really hard rain it seems that the scree gets carried away. The trails actually do need a good hard rain. The dust is like talcum powder and all the buried rocks are getting polished smooth making it almost as bad as wet limestone.
  9. I'm currently running a Crankbros Highline 3 150mm with a Wolftooth remote. Got it from Backcountry for $160. The Highline was really simple to install and so far seems to work well although doesn't feel as smooth going up or down as the cheap BrandX's I had on my other bikes. I like the Wolftooth remote, I like the textured paddle and the amount of adjustability. I have the ISpec II mount that gets clamped under the brake lever. The clamp allows for rotational adjustment on the handle bar and also is able to be slid in or out 1/2" by loosening the bearing bolt on the lever.
  10. Yes I did. Wolftooth makes an adapter to allow you to use road derailleurs with MTB shifters. https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/drivetrain-1/products/tanpan
  11. My experience with Sotol is at first it's pretty interesting, then it starts to get me to thinking this is probably what a dead rotting carcass might taste like. Kinda strange.
  12. Most of the deer here aren't real big. Large dogs.
  13. Smells of desperation to me. No thriving local economy is going to make an offer like that. Anyone thinking of this would be best advised to dig in deep and see what that economy looks like.
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