WLemke

You need to really work the bead under the tire insert. Use the end of your tire lever to stuff it in there. It also helps if you lay the wheel flat on top of a trash can. It really helps to get the bead under the insert around the entire rim without disturbing the work you’ve already done.

Just a new spoke. Try to replace like for like if possible. For example, if you have spaim cx-rays, replace with another cx-ray. You’ll also need a new nipple. I have a park tool TS-2 stand and a TM-1 tension meter. Happy to let you bring the rim over and use them. It’s super easy to replace a spoke.

Facts.

Can do. See you then.

In for 7:30am

Hero dirt day. Go get some before it gets too hot. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’m having to clean and reapply Dumonde tech every month to keep my hydra quiet. I’m hoping whatever modification they made to this new freehub will allow me to do this only every 1,000 miles.

Yep. Those tiny little gaps cause a bunch of noise when I pedal as the freehub moves slightly with each rotation. It doesn’t seem to effect engagement or coasting. I don’t know if the issues I’ve had are normal (I suspect they are not) but I will say that i9’s customer service continues to be amazing. Despite the problems, I don’t think there is another hub I’d rather own at this point in time.

And it happened again! Ruined another i9 hydra freehub. Called i9 and they had me send them a bunch of pictures. They are sending me another new freehub. This time it will be a modified version that is currently in development. I have to sign an NDA to not disclose exactly what that modification is. You can see there is a small gap between the pawl and the pawl pocket. That is not supposed to happen. Either my legs are producing more watts than this freehub can handle or I just have bad luck…the jury is still out on this one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It’s happening. I’m noticing a significant uptick of high end 2020/2021 bikes being listed on CL and FB. Guess the COVID bikers decided this sport wasn’t for them. Time to get that new bike you wanted at a steep discount! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh Geeze. Guy dropped off a Cannondale Jekyll with a creaky BB. I removed the crank and found that the dropper cable was routed incorrectly, rubbing against the crank. Do y’all think this crank is still safe to use or should I tell this guy he is going to need a new crank? It doesn’t seem very deep but you can feel the groves when running a finger over it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alright. It is done. So I’ve always been in full concentration mode when riding but now that I walked the trail I could see that a downed tree was the source of the obfuscation. Here is the before looking down the trail. And here is the after. Hopefully this will prevent some head on collisions. I know I’ll certainly feel better going full beans down this hill now. There are a few punjis that I’ll need a chainsaw to remove but they are on the inside of the curve so they shouldn’t be of any immediate danger. I’ll try and get out there on Monday to deal with them.

@GreenMTBrider There are a couple sections on 1/4N with low/over grown branches that are causing some major visibility issues. The most egregious is when going E-W, there is a short downhill into a quick right hand turn. There is a leafy branch that you have to duck to clear and absolutely no visibility leading into the corner. Do you have any concerns if I went and trimmed it back later today?

I’m still currently on the hunt for an XT or SLX chain. Don’t need it yet but I suspect in another 100-200 miles I’ll be hitting the .5% mark. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bent the hell out of my front chain ring two months ago. Put it in a vice and bent it back to tide me over until I could get a replacement. Only took two months but I finally got my hands on a new XT chain ring. Ended up finding one at Richardson Bike Mart up in DFW.

If it’s integrated and you’re using all the same pieces on the new fork, then that won’t be an issue. If you didn’t need a shim before, you wouldn't need one now. The only effective change is moving from a star nut to a compression plug so that’s more than likely is your issue. IDK exactly the type of compression plug you are using but I recently worked on a cannondale road bike with a FSA compression plug that needed to be “pre-compressed” so that the total length was 48mm before you inserted it into the steerer tube. If it was too short, the compression plug wouldn’t compress the headset enough. Maybe investigate if something like that is your issue.

Integrated or press-in headset cups?

Just got to the nut. No sign of rain. We’ll see what happens…

Anyone got boots on the ground? Hard to tell on the radar if WC has gotten enough rain to rule out R&Iing today. edit: Hydromet is showing no recent rain

For those of you who are waxing your chain and running 11/12 speed groupsets, are you replacing your master link every time you take off the chain? I’ve always heard you’re not supposed to re-use a 11/12 speed master links. Not sure this is a fact or clever marketing perpetrated by Big Chain.

I bought two pairs of those shorts you linked about a year ago when they were on sale for $20. Like many things, you get what you pay for. The fabric itself is stretchy, are comfortable to ride in and wicks moisture well but it doesn’t hold up great in a crash. I had one ~6-8 mph low side that tore a hole in the leg. The chamois that comes with them are utter trash. the MTB shorts I own that were in the $80-$100 have been in multiple crashes without any major damage. if you are going to buy the cheap stuff, try to find shorts that don’t come with a chamois. I’d rather have my $43 go all into the construction of the shorts and not shorts+chamois.

Looks like you’ll also need a vice, soft jaws, 22mm chamferless socket, heat gun, and DVO’s special oil catch can. Reading the instructions, it does looks fairly simple compared to other damper services, but it does require a number of tools that you’re average home mechanic doesn’t have.

“Cool” weather, and hopefully the rain last night will give us some hero dirt. It was lunar conditions last week! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If I drive my bike to brushy/walnut and it’s cool enough that I can get away with one water bottle, I only bring a multi tool. If I ride to the trails or it’s hot enough that I need to bring a hydration pack, I bring a multi tool, pump, tire plug, and a small microfiber towel. (A good hitch hiker always brings a towel) I stopped bringing a back up tube about 2 years ago when I started using cushcore. It would be so difficult to get the insert out on the trail and they are run flat capable so why even bother with a tube. It sounds like you are still running tubes. If that’s your thing and you’re sticking to it, then by all means, you do you. With that said, there are absolutely no benefits to not running a tubeless set up.

Similar experience to you. Last week I was on my road bike and got a nasty, tire ending sidewall cut. I was only a little over a mile from the 183 Trek store so I decided to walk over there and not bug my wife to come save me during rush hour traffic. Walked in and asked for a new tire. The sales guy walked me through my options and recommended a model that would match the performance of my old tire. The rub was that they were all bontrager tires. Not a brand I would have purchased on my own accord but it was that or not continue my ride. They had a bike stand and tools set up for customers to use which made installing the new tire a breeze. They even offered to top up my water bottle. Overall, I had a very positive experience but yeah, would have greatly preferred more than just one tire brand choice. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk