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So I was riding at Muleshoe with my son and had a failed attempt on one of the ledgy climbs.  When I went to retry it my crank wouldn't turn, which was when I noticed that my derailleur looked odd.  It was up against the spokes.  After messing with the derailleur and turning the bike upside down I heard the wheel shift in the dropout.  At about the same moment my son noticed that the thru axle was was loose. When I turned the bike over the thru axle had almost fallen out of the dropouts, held only by the tension of the chain and the wheel being slightly askew in the dropouts. In thirty years of mountain biking I have never had my rear wheel almost fall off while riding.  I guess I need to be more conscientious about periodically checking the tightness of everything...

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11 minutes ago, hurronnicane said:

So I was riding at Muleshoe with my son and had a failed attempt on one of the ledgy climbs.  When I went to retry it my crank wouldn't turn, which was when I noticed that my derailleur looked odd.  It was up against the spokes.  After messing with the derailleur and turning the bike upside down I heard the wheel shift in the dropout.  At about the same moment my son noticed that the thru axle was was loose. When I turned the bike over the thru axle had almost fallen out of the dropouts, held only by the tension of the chain and the wheel being slightly askew in the dropouts. In thirty years of mountain biking I have never had my rear wheel almost fall off while riding.  I guess I need to be more conscientious about periodically checking the tightness of everything...

Funny thing is I saw the exact same thing happen at Muleshoe to someone else on a big group ride.  It was almost a bad crash.  Only the rider's really good handling skills saved them.

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You were lucky the derailleur or hanger were not bent or damaged.

I see this a lot on my bikes and my wife's bike. I don't think it has to do with 'not tightening the axle enough' because I have torqued axles down to where that was aluminum juice squeezing out. Some of my axles consistently loosen and some never seem to. I have cleaned threads, checked clearances, checked alignment, etc. etc. etc. No change. The ones that loosen - still do. The ones that stay tight - still do that too.

What has worked for me is to check the axle when I check the tire pressure before every ride. It only takes a second to check. And I have never had one come loose during a ride since I started checking.

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Not sure how long any sort of thread-locker would hold after several uses, but it's not a bad idea. Wrapping the threads in plumbing Teflon tape or nail polish might help. I always keep a bottle of cheap nail polish around just for this reason. Be sure to get something glittery that complements your eye color, but the clear stuff works too.

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13 minutes ago, spicewookie said:

I've had great performance with DT Swiss RWS thru bolts.  They never back out.  Running them in Hope hubs (not that it matters).

I second this. Back when I had the old QRs I would find that they loosened up occasionally. Then I got a 9mm RWS on the front and a 12mm on the back. Those things were awesome, never had a single issue. Loved them.

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2 minutes ago, AustinBike said:

I second this. Back when I had the old QRs I would find that they loosened up occasionally. Then I got a 9mm RWS on the front and a 12mm on the back. Those things were awesome, never had a single issue. Loved them.

I know things.

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Just curious, how many of you that have had the axles back out use a torque wrench to tighten them?  Are these the ones with the lever or the ones where you need a hex wrench?  I switched to the maxles instead of the DT Swiss levers. I find it hard to torque down with the small levers.  Also, I have found that they threads get contaminated easily, and that a good amount of grease is needed if you're to torque it down properly.  If you put it in dry (let's see what you can do with that one Mojos) it's hard to get it properly tight.

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8 minutes ago, AntonioGG said:

Just curious, how many of you that have had the axles back out use a torque wrench to tighten them?  Are these the ones with the lever or the ones where you need a hex wrench?  I switched to the maxles instead of the DT Swiss levers. I find it hard to torque down with the small levers.  Also, I have found that they threads get contaminated easily, and that a good amount of grease is needed if you're to torque it down properly.  If you put it in dry (let's see what you can do with that one Mojos) it's hard to get it properly tight.

My friends that kept coming loose on the trail was a Maxle, I have bolt on thru axles, torque them to spec and have had zero issues.

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6 hours ago, notyal said:

My rear thru axle has a habit of backing out. I usually notice shifting issues before it gets that loose. Thanks for the reminder to check for loose bolts!

Yep. Took me a while to figure that out though. Kept turning the barrel adjuster to fix the symptom, and finally wondered why I was having to keep making the same adjustment over and over! Only happens on my Trek bikes though - so wondering now if the ABP is part of the problem. 

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Hadley 10mm thru-bolt, zero issues. The blur has a solid rear triangle though, so it doesn’t flex much at the dropouts. I would expect this sort of issue with any linkage driven single pivot frame or any other frame where the seat stays aren’t one piece like Trek’s, Transition’s, Kona’s, or Devinci’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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My first mtb had quick release and lawyer lips.

I forgot to check the front QR and I was practicing bunny hopping. 

On my way home I bunny hopped something on concrete paving. Mid air and I noticed my front wheel stayed on the ground. Impact was painful.

I've always checked my wheels since then.

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