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Cafeend

RaceFace Next R Cranks

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On my Intense I have the Raceface  Next r Cranks.

I want to pull these to clean and lube and have the 8MM and 16MM tool but apparently need a crank puller?

After reading and watching videos looks like I may need to get a Park CCP-44 tool to pull the drive side arm off.

Can anyone verify this please?

 

 

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Posted (edited)
24 minutes ago, Cafeend said:

On my Intense I have the Raceface  Next r Cranks.

I want to pull these to clean and lube and have the 8MM and 16MM tool but apparently need a crank puller?

After reading and watching videos looks like I may need to get a Park CCP-44 tool to pull the drive side arm off.

Can anyone verify this please?

 

 

wrong.

you should just be using an 8mm Allen wrench to loosen the drive-side crank arm off and it uses a self extracting bolt to push itself off the crank spindle, just like all the other modern race face cranks//

 

that 16mm Allen is only if youre removing/changing the crank spindle itself or the self extracting bolt 

 

that cap that has the 16mm Allen wrench hole needs to stay on while you are turning the 8mm crank bolt counter clockwise. the 8mm bolt pushes against the inside of that 16mm Allen cap to self extract the crank arm off the spindle 

Edited by Seths Pool
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Posted (edited)

From RF:

"For the large majority of Race Face cranks a special puller tool is not required. The mid-high end spectrum of Race Face cranks (Cinch, EXI, and older X-Type interfaces) use a self-extracting puller cap system that allows for the removal of the drive side crank with only an 8mm Hex key wrench. For some of the mid to lower end EXI cranks (Evolve, Aeffect, Chester, Ride, and Respond) a standard crank puller tool for Spindled cranks like the Park CCP-44 is required for crank removal."

 

...just in case you don't trust Seth. 😉

Edited by Teamsloan
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wrong.
you should just be using an 8mm Allen wrench to loosen the drive-side crank arm off and it uses a self extracting bolt to push itself off the crank spindle, just like all the other modern race face cranks//
 
that 16mm Allen is only if youre removing/changing the crank spindle itself or the self extracting bolt 
 
that cap that has the 16mm Allen wrench hole needs to stay on while you are turning the 8mm crank bolt counter clockwise. the 8mm bolt pushes against the inside of that 16mm Allen cap to self extract the crank arm off the spindle 
Seth thanks very much , that did the trick in no time. I got her all cleaned and lubed and running like butter.
Appreciate it

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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11 hours ago, Cafeend said:

Seth thanks very much , that did the trick in no time. I got her all cleaned and lubed and running like butter.
Appreciate it

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

no problem!

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Cafeend,

I had to tighten my drive side crank again after riding that last bit.  😞

2019 Stumpjumper Comp

Raceface Affect cranks.

Drive side crank is coming loose after 3 miles riding, give or take.

I have torqued it down, no luck.  Shop looked at it, threw some blue locktite on there and cranked it down, with the same result. 

Shop did not see any issues when they pulled it apart, but are supposed to be starting the Warranty process.  

We'll see what happens next I guess. 

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Hey.. I know you have a deal with that shop but my two worthless cents would be at least get a second opinion on that situation from another shop. I sure as heck wouldn't want to ride with the possibility of a crank arm coming off mid ride. It will not happen next to your Jeep and may cause you some sort of injury.
Worth a try man
Btw.. good seeing ya.. fun ride!

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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I have some Truvativ Ruktion cranks on a DJ bike that this keeps happening to as well.  I can tighten the crap out of it AND use Lock-tite and it will get loose after riding for a bit.  It wasn't a big problem because I always checked it before riding and didn't pedal much but now my son is starting to actually 'ride' it and I need to address the problem.  I think that I'm going to just replace the stupid thing but I need some bullet proof cranks so it doesn't break when my "I'm not 14 anymore" self cases a jump.

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I am hoping if they warranty the cranks the new ones will solve the problem.  I can stop every 3 miles to crank them down, but that is annoying and not viable long term.  

 

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The Aeffect cranks have a plastic spacer with a red line around it. It is orientation specific. Check to make sure that the spacer is installed correctly. The spacer has a flat side and a collared side the collared side goes towards the bottom bracket the flat side goes toward the crank arm.

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