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Opinions on Buying a New Bike


AustinBike

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2) I have done this at competitive and Jenson.  I figure the guys there press in 100 bottom brackets every day so they'll probably do a good job.  It was free with purchase.  Plus while you're in touch it's free to ask if the price they're offering is the best they can do.  Jenson immediately knocked $300 off a frame just because I asked.

4) I've broken a stans hub too.  There are so many good cheap wheels these days, I would not bother.

5) What happens if 11 speed goes away?  Will you have to... buy a new drivetrain?

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3 minutes ago, Ridenfool said:

What Kyle said. I have never called Jenson with a problem that wasn't solved immediately, and usually included a discount. Even when the problem was my fault, like ordering the wrong part.

If you call them they will probably do you a better deal than simply clicking on the webpage.

Can confirm this. Usually get 5% additional off for calling and using CC vs PP. 

Bought my wife's carbon frame for almost $1k off MSRP.

Jenson is awesome to deal with.

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In the world of not sweating the offset, I took a look at how Niner positions offsets for my current Rip9:

"The trail bikes like RIP 9 and JET 9 do well with 44mm offset. It’s best to find out your current fork offset and use the same for your new fork."

So they recommend a 44mm offset and I have been riding 51mm Pikes for the past year with no issue. My guess is that this would not be an issue for me, I am not a princess, I probably won't notice the pea.

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I think you're over complicating the process. Go ride some bikes. Not just the frame, but the whole bike system with gears and forks and shiz. If you can't ride the bike you want on real trails, I would rank that bike low on the list EVEN IF YOU THINK YOU LOVE THE BRAND. 

Then, once you've found a bike you like, see if you can beat the price and spec of a complete bike by going piecemeal, buying a frame, keeping your fork, etc. 

You're putting the cart before the horse. 

 

THAT BEING SAID... comments on components:

Don't buy Stan's branded wheelsets. Don't. You keep your wheels for a long time so investing in DT/King/Hope/etc is worth it. BUT also beware that standards are no longer as stable as they used to be. Super Dooper Boost, XD driver, MicroSplines, etc... Get what you like for this bike but don't expect these components to survive to your next three frames.

I just installed SRAM Eagle NX on my new-to-me hardtail. It was cheap AF, easy to dial in (no harder than 11sp GX), and I can run a 34t chainring and take advantage of the bigger range in both directions, vs just having more climbing gear. The Eagle NX cassette mounts on a normal 10sp Shimano splined freehub body, unlike the other SRAM cassettes. Shimano 12 speed requires a new freehub standard. 

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On 9/9/2019 at 6:59 AM, AustinBike said:

Opinions, yeah, you all have them. I'm starting the process and instead of spamming the board and spinning off a million different threads, I'll consolidate here.

Interested in your thoughts on the following:

1. Buying a fully configured bike vs. building? Knowing that my credit card gives me extra warranty is it worth buying a full bike all in one shot? I could buy the components ala carte and build one up, but is there a benefit from a warranty perspective? (My shop warranty experience has been mixed....)

2. Anyone ever buy from Competitive Cyclist? Wondering if I could get a frame with headset and bottom bracket installed. I could do the BB easily but I don't have a headset press. Would love them shipped to me ready to go.

3. Should I keep my 6-month old Pike boost fork since it is already at 130mm (my preferred travel) or sell it and just get a new fork with the bike? Any benefit on getting the fork matched to the frame or is this stuff all pretty compatible (thinking primarily about offset.) Would rather save the money and put it towards better wheels (see #4).

4. Anyone use Stan's Neo hubs? I know I want Arch MK3 rims, King hubs would be nice, but very expensive, DT Swiss would be my preferred, but Stan's wheels with Neo seem attractively priced and easy to acquire. Worth it?

5. 11-speed vs. 12-speed? I just upgraded my Niner to 11-speed about 2 months ago so I have a brand new drive train. Does it make sense to transfer this over? I unfortunately made a ton of upgrades to my bike recently and would like to salvage that. Is 11-speed going to stick around as long as 10-speed did or is it going to disappear quickly (have not watched the trajectory that 12-speed components might be coming down.)

 

I am guessing I will return to add more questions to this as things progress.

 

1. Unless you're spending a good bit of time looking for great deals, full bike will generally be a better deal.

2.  I haven't, but I've heard good things.  I've ordered one from Jenson and it was mostly assembled and took probably 30 minutes to set up - most of that getting it out of the packaging.

3.  Depends on what you get.

4.  I'll echo everyone else - Stan's hubs have been meh.  Most of my hubs are DT Swiss and are super reliable.

5.  11 Speed is fine for around here.  It probably won't be specced much on new bikes since there are some really affordable 12 speed options.

If you're interested in used, depending on what you're looking for, I've got a med Canfield Riot (asking 2100 but willing to negotiate, mostly asking that for the inevitable craigslist lowballers) up for sale and will be posting a Trance Advanced Pro 29 soon (will likely be asking about 3k) (https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/trance-advanced-pro-29-1).

 

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Yeah, far be it for me to overcomplicate the process. Going to try to ride a few, but if I happen across a killer deal, I could pull the trigger today. Because I can't compare the total discounted price until I have actual quotes, I am going off of list to list comparisons, but the final number will require a little more work. But the two top bikes (on paper) are the Ripley and the Tallboy. The new Tallboy is not available yet. Both at list are identical for the most part.

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4 minutes ago, fontarin said:

1. Unless you're spending a good bit of time looking for great deals, full bike will generally be a better deal.

2.  I haven't, but I've heard good things.  I've ordered one from Jenson and it was mostly assembled and took probably 30 minutes to set up - most of that getting it out of the packaging.

3.  Depends on what you get.

4.  I'll echo everyone else - Stan's hubs have been meh.  Most of my hubs are DT Swiss and are super reliable.

5.  11 Speed is fine for around here.  It probably won't be specced much on new bikes since there are some really affordable 12 speed options.

If you're interested in used, depending on what you're looking for, I've got a med Canfield Riot (asking 2100 but willing to negotiate, mostly asking that for the inevitable craigslist lowballers) up for sale and will be posting a Trance Advanced Pro 29 soon (will likely be asking about 3k) (https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/trance-advanced-pro-29-1).

 

Medium will be too small, I am a large. 11-speed is actually preferred, for the most part 10-speed works fine here. Mostly concerned that 12-speed is diminishing returns (1 more gear but more finicky to adjust and more prone to damage.)

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2 minutes ago, AustinBike said:

Yeah, far be it for me to overcomplicate the process. Going to try to ride a few, but if I happen across a killer deal, I could pull the trigger today. Because I can't compare the total discounted price until I have actual quotes, I am going off of list to list comparisons, but the final number will require a little more work. But the two top bikes (on paper) are the Ripley and the Tallboy. The new Tallboy is not available yet. Both at list are identical for the most part.

I tested the Ripley a few weeks ago. Awesome bike.  I wanted more travel so I went with the Ripmo instead.   Talk to Wes at Velorangutan about a demo on the Ripley - I know he has a medium and I think a large.

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The best thing about buy a complete bike is knowing that all the parts are spec'd to complement the bike's geo, spacing, and any other "standards". The other great thing is that all of those parts are brand spanking new and will age together, and you won't be stuck with nice parts that don't fit the next bike.

I remember you mentioning a Stumpy on the maybe list. Saw this one on CL this morning, and it seems like a good deal. Kinda a lowish end spec, tho.

https://austin.craigslist.org/bik/d/austin-2019-stumpjumper-29-carbon-mtb/6974857648.html

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46 minutes ago, AustinBike said:

 But the two top bikes (on paper) are the Ripley and the Tallboy. 

The new Ripley looks sick.  It looks like a great fit for Austin.

If I were in your shoes I'd definitely build it vs buying an Ibis build.  Your Pike is comparable to a 34 performance.  You're kind of a drivetrain luddite anyway, I don't see 12+ speed doing anything for you joy wise.  You can avoid goofy Ibis wheels and 2.6" nobby nics.

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I've built my last few bikes mostly because I like to cut the fork tube to my desired height. Always seemed like you can spend less money if you can find a good deal on a complete bike.

Regarding 11 speed vs 12 speed, I went from an XX1 11 speed setup to a X01 12 speed setup about 7 months ago. I've had no problem keeping the 12 speed dialed in and tuned. But I will say that the 11 speed shifted SO MUCH nicer (smoother with much less effort) than the 12 speed. I don't know if it's a XX1 vs X01 thing or 11 vs 12. If anyone has any info on that, let me know.

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OK, did a Ripley demo last night at WC before the rain hit, but the real test will be today (gonna hit the greenbelt).

Initial thoughts are that this thing is smooth and sweet. I liked it, but the one nagging feeling was that the seat tube angle seemed too steep. It felt like I was sitting on top of the crank instead of sitting more towards the rear wheel. In beer conversations after the ride it became apparent that 76deg seat tube angle is the new black and everyone is heading in that direction. Oddly, that puts the Stumpjumper back on the front burner and pushes the Tallboy to the back. Truth be told, a 76deg seat tube angle is not the worst thing in the world, I could live with that if I had to, but it was not that 110% fit like a glove ride.

The cockpit felt a little cramped so I pulled the 35mm stem and put on a 70mm stem. Instant difference. Here's the impact: slow speed steep climbing, where you need a lot of torque and tend to stand, is easier with a longer stem. The shorter stem is better for longer, sustained climbing where you are actually seated most of the time (or have enough speed that when you stand for the last few cranks it still feels stable.) An immediate stand at the start of a climb with a 35mm stem is really noodly.

As a bonus on the Stumpjumper, it has the 51mm offset for the fork and comes with a Fox 34 standard (and I could hold on to my Pike as a backup). It is becoming more interesting as I think about it.

More bikes to try, more riding to get done. 

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1 hour ago, AustinBike said:

OK, did a Ripley demo last night at WC before the rain hit, but the real test will be today (gonna hit the greenbelt).

Initial thoughts are that this thing is smooth and sweet. I liked it, but the one nagging feeling was that the seat tube angle seemed too steep. It felt like I was sitting on top of the crank instead of sitting more towards the rear wheel. In beer conversations after the ride it became apparent that 76deg seat tube angle is the new black and everyone is heading in that direction. Oddly, that puts the Stumpjumper back on the front burner and pushes the Tallboy to the back. Truth be told, a 76deg seat tube angle is not the worst thing in the world, I could live with that if I had to, but it was not that 110% fit like a glove ride.

The cockpit felt a little cramped so I pulled the 35mm stem and put on a 70mm stem. Instant difference. Here's the impact: slow speed steep climbing, where you need a lot of torque and tend to stand, is easier with a longer stem. The shorter stem is better for longer, sustained climbing where you are actually seated most of the time (or have enough speed that when you stand for the last few cranks it still feels stable.) An immediate stand at the start of a climb with a 35mm stem is really noodly.

As a bonus on the Stumpjumper, it has the 51mm offset for the fork and comes with a Fox 34 standard (and I could hold on to my Pike as a backup). It is becoming more interesting as I think about it.

More bikes to try, more riding to get done. 

Interesting to hear your thoughts on the steeper STA.  With that being said, I'd suggest you take a look at one these and see what you think. I was pretty set on buying the 120mm frame and building it up but wanted a steeper STA than 74*. Gets some pretty good reviews, lightweight, takes a 51mm and the geo & price is right.

https://intensecycles.com/collections/intense-sniper-trail

https://intensecycles.com/collections/frames/products/sniper-sl-frame?variant=12281160761367

Edited by ATXZJ
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The trend right now with "Modern Geometry" is to position the rider further over the front wheel. Due to the slacker HT angles and burlier, better damped front forks of today, you can weight the front end more for better cornering traction without the increased risk of going OTB. The front end has better traction and the fork is able to soak up the big hits. This is especially valuable in an enduro situation with more corners being combined with steeper terrain. As someone who is more accustom to traditional geometry where the weight is further over the back wheel, it's an odd feeling I'm sure. Talk to Nando, he's had a similar learning experience with his bike and learning that the bike can be ridden harder when he trusts the bike and leans a little more in to the front end.

Hopefully your greenbelt ride goes well today. It might take a little while for it to "click". You also might size up to an XL, get a bit longer reach without having to go with a longer old skool XC stem.

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1 hour ago, ATXZJ said:

Interesting to hear your thoughts on the steeper STA.  With that being said, I'd suggest you take a look at one these and see what you think. I was pretty set on buying the 120mm frame and building it up but wanted a steeper STA than 74*. Gets some pretty good reviews, lightweight, takes a 51mm and the geo & price is right.

https://intensecycles.com/collections/intense-sniper-trail

https://intensecycles.com/collections/frames/products/sniper-sl-frame?variant=12281160761367

That is an interesting bike. The price is right, but the travel is only 120mm on the fork with the only dealer being out in Dripping Springs. Will add it to the rotation and see what happens.

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