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Had a creak on my last ride so I took apart the frame and checked all the bearing pivots. Main pivot bearings were dry but in good condition. Went and checked all the other bearings and they were all fine, one bearing on the horst link style pivot was a little worse for wear but still moving well, packed all the bearings with grease and reassembled the bike. Creak is gone, but I know the bearing on the chainstay will have to be replaced somewhat soon. Thinking I will just go ahead replace all the bearings. Looking at bearing presses and pullers to get the job done at home.  

Have any of you successfully replaced bearings without having to run to the shop? Any suggestions on a decent bearing press/puller for a home mechanic that doesn't break the bank? Should I just pay a professional?

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22 hours ago, AntonioGG said:

This is something I've wanted to ask.  Would you say there's a different level of resistance to moisture within the Shimano range of products? 

Honestly I almost always buy the cheap ones (Deore level) so I couldn't speak to that from personal experience, and I feel like most info you'll get on the subject will be so subjective it'll be mostly useless. 

5 hours ago, rockshins said:

Had a creak on my last ride so I took apart the frame and checked all the bearing pivots. Main pivot bearings were dry but in good condition. Went and checked all the other bearings and they were all fine, one bearing on the horst link style pivot was a little worse for wear but still moving well, packed all the bearings with grease and reassembled the bike. Creak is gone, but I know the bearing on the chainstay will have to be replaced somewhat soon. Thinking I will just go ahead replace all the bearings. Looking at bearing presses and pullers to get the job done at home.  

Have any of you successfully replaced bearings without having to run to the shop? Any suggestions on a decent bearing press/puller for a home mechanic that doesn't break the bank? Should I just pay a professional?

 I've done it many times with sockets, PVC fittings or pipe, c-clamps, and other various "tools" one might have at home. It's really not that hard of a job for someone who is mechanically inclined or experience. That being said, if you fudge it up it might cost you a lot.

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10 hours ago, Big_papa_nuts said:

That being said, if you fudge it up it might cost you a lot.

That is typically the reason that I take certain jobs to the shop vs. trying them on my own. Yes, I could save money but there is a 3 dimensional model - can I do it, what does it cost, and what is the cost if I screw it up. 

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They have had it about 2 weeks now. I dont honestly recall how the front felt. Owell. Since it was in for warranty work and the back was being bleed I told them to do the front.
Then I asked the price for the bleed. Damn. I will do it myself next time. Thank You

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Yea..picked up the bike this afternoon. Feel violated kind of. $87 for a bleed on front and rear. They tossed the "old pads" that had less than 15 miles on them and replaced with new.
Took it in for warranty replacement on rear caliper.
So that total hurts
I guess it will be like having new brakes but hurts knowing I could of should of done this myself.

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57 minutes ago, Cafeend said:

Yea..picked up the bike this afternoon. Feel violated kind of. $87 for a bleed on front and rear. They tossed the "old pads" that had less than 15 miles on them and replaced with new.
Took it in for warranty replacement on rear caliper.
So that total hurts
I guess it will be like having new brakes but hurts knowing I could of should of done this myself.

Tossed the pads? Why?

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Did they inform you of all this work and the cost before starting? Seems like a bad business practice. I worked in several shops over the years and never did that to anyone.
No.. just that the rear would obviously be bled since it was the caliper being replaced. I was told this AM the front needed bled..I took their word.
I asked him the damage and he said $50 for front and read bleed. Under the idea of supporting local I said fine.
Went back this afternoon and told it was the $87. He said he forgot to mention they replaced pads.

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Since covid has us all a bit spun, figured I'd post some tech I did today trying to solve an issue that is probably very, very isolated.

 Found out the hard way in Arkansas that the chain on my bike was too short and snapped the rear derailleur leaving me on my second day at the DH park riding chainless. What I hadn't taken into consideration was the 28MM of rearward axle path at full stuff on a high pivot. The issue is the bike was designed around a 10-42 cassette and I'm currently running an 11-46, and the chain was either too short in the 46t under compression, or too long in the 11t at ride height. This was with a shimano M8000 and X1 medium cage derailleurs. The solution was to either go to a long cage 11spd or  just bite the bullet and do a 12spd derailleur. I had already  ditched shimano and went back to sram by purchasing an X1 shifter and derailleur. I also really didn't want to run a GX eagle on a 27.5 just to get torn off by a rock. I ended up buying a garbaruk billet cage that is compatible with up to 50t cassettes and also some larger pulleys to take up some additional slack. After getting it all installed took it out for a spin the extra 13mm in cage length resolved my chain issues. Now, the bike is just hanging on the wall waiting for the human plague to blow over. 

I would definitely recommend Garbaruk for people looking to add some deeper gears to their MTB or road drivetrains.  

https://www.garbaruk.com/

 

 

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Edited by ATXZJ
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On 3/15/2020 at 6:40 PM, Cafeend said:

No.. just that the rear would obviously be bled since it was the caliper being replaced. I was told this AM the front needed bled..I took their word.
I asked him the damage and he said $50 for front and read bleed. Under the idea of supporting local I said fine.
Went back this afternoon and told it was the $87. He said he forgot to mention they replaced pads.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

What shop? I had warranty work done a couple years ago on some brakes at the peddler and they said they needed to charge me for a bleed to complete the work and It was only $15. 

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1 hour ago, 4fun said:

What shop? I had warranty work done a couple years ago on some brakes at the peddler and they said they needed to charge me for a bleed to complete the work and It was only $15. 

I also would like to know which shop - if they pull a stunt like that, they deserve to have their name out there in public.

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13 hours ago, 4fun said:

What shop? I had warranty work done a couple years ago on some brakes at the peddler and they said they needed to charge me for a bleed to complete the work and It was only $15. 

I had issues with my XT brakes when I built my FS. I contacted Shimano and they responded by having me bring it to my local shop. I took it to Peddler and Mike was like yeah we'll take care of it. He initially tried a deep bleed for a temporary fix and ordered a new set of brakes. I brought the bike back and left it for a day or two, when I picked it up I asked what I owed and he said nothing. I went next door to Redhorn and got a $50 gift card for the shop. Good bunch of guys. Mike no longer works there though.

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14 hours ago, 4fun said:

What shop? I had warranty work done a couple years ago on some brakes at the peddler and they said they needed to charge me for a bleed to complete the work and It was only $15. 

Cost to the customer for warranty work can be a bit confusing. SRAM for example will usually throw in a couple chains for the shop to sell to cover their labor costs (though they are getting away from that). Shimano does nothing so the shop either has to eat the cost, which they usually will for a good/regular customer, or charge the customer normal rates, with is actually the industry standard for warranty work.

 

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17 hours ago, ATXZJ said:

I would definitely recommend Garbaruk for people looking to add some deeper gears to their MTB or road drivetrains.  

https://www.garbaruk.com/

I bought and ran their 10-48 XD cassette with my Shimano 11 speed set up for about 3 months. At 304 grams, the thing is crazy light, and it's a work of art. And the install is dramatically easier than the E13 version. But...after about 3 months (1500-1600 miles, give or take) the thing started creaking like mad in everything but the 48t cog. 

 

But Garbaruk is a great company, and offered to send me a new one, free of charge or shipping. I asked for them to send the 10-46 version, and they did. But it never showed. They never sent the tracking number, and it seems that it was lost or stolen at some point. But they're a great company, and offered to send me another new one, free of charge or shipping. And they sent a tracking number. So now I have a used and creaky 10-48, and a new in box 10-46. But I'm currently running my heavyish E13 9-46 which I also wrangled out of E13 free of charge...

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21 minutes ago, Barry said:

I bought and ran their 10-48 XD cassette with my Shimano 11 speed set up for about 3 months. At 304 grams, the thing is crazy light, and it's a work of art. And the install is dramatically easier than the E13 version. But...after about 3 months (1500-1600 miles, give or take) the thing started creaking like mad in everything but the 48t cog. 

 

But Garbaruk is a great company, and offered to send me a new one, free of charge or shipping. I asked for them to send the 10-46 version, and they did. But it never showed. They never sent the tracking number, and it seems that it was lost or stolen at some point. But they're a great company, and offered to send me another new one, free of charge or shipping. And they sent a tracking number. So now I have a used and creaky 10-48, and a new in box 10-46. But I'm currently running my heavyish E13 9-46 which I also wrangled out of E13 free of charge...

Ive heard of a couple issues with their cassettes as well but haven't used one. I suppose if weight is someones biggest priority they would be a good option. Ive had such good luck with the aftermarket sunrace SCMX cassettes I will probably stick with them. The biggest thing that I liked about Garbaruk was the cages. Now i have an option to replace the cages on my derailleurs instead of throwing them in a box for spare parts.

Also, people who invetibly damge the cage on their eagle 12spds have some options too.

Used to order a lot of stuff from bike-discount out of europe and all was good as long as it went through SF or NYC ports. If it ended up in Chicago, god help you. Had an order also disappear from there as well.

Edited by ATXZJ
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Feels like the monster Eagle cassette on my Orbea is pretty touchy, not sure I would be good with a non-SRAM component on there. Actually a 50T is too big, one day I hope to put a bigger front ring on because in 50T I just spin too much. I long for the days of 10 speed, those are more robust. Remember when 10SP came out and people said it was too fragile? Times have changed.

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The shop is well known and liked. I think my initial posting was not so much to bad mouth the shop itself but to maybe get someone saying it was  a legit cost. 

The same shop has treated me well over time and has gone out of their way previously, the extra mile when it wasnt needed and the costs were much more affordable. 

 

I will say that after my previous posts , someone who is in the know at the shop did reach out to me. The guy apologized and offered an explanation.

He did so on his own off the record. That meant a lot to me and yeah I am not  happy about the over all cost -- My wife reminded me to take it in perspective. 

Why bitch about a high bill for something that gives me such relief and pleasure and then not thinking about dropping hundreds on a dinner out. 

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