Chief Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 OK not familiar with Hadley. Can you see any wear on the pawls or the ring gear? If they have a lot of miles on them the ring gear may be worn causing a slight moment of non engagement. Typically when the pawls don't engage properly they eventually fail or damage the ring gear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 So...this is latest in tire lever technology. I think there may be some patent law suits on the horizon😂😂 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mack_turtle Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 (edited) 3 minutes ago, Chief said: OK not familiar with Hadley. Can you see any wear on the pawls or the ring gear? If they have a lot of miles on them the ring gear may be worn causing a slight moment of non engagement. Typically when the pawls don't engage properly they eventually fail or damage the ring gear. The top and bottom sets are the pairs that should engage together. notice how much more worn the second pair are. they just sent me a new freehub and pawls but it sounds worse in the hub. Edited April 28, 2020 by mack_turtle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 When you have any doubts at all about lack of engagement, immediately pull the free hub and take a look. Here is what happens when you ignore it on a Chris King aluminum freehub: 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief Posted April 28, 2020 Author Share Posted April 28, 2020 18 minutes ago, mack_turtle said: The top and bottom sets are the pairs that should engage together. notice how much more worn the second pair are. they just sent me a new freehub and pawls but it sounds worse in the hub. I'd bet your drive ring is worn. Is the ring gear replaceable on that hub? I had a Sun Ringle hub that had a similar issue. I eventually stripped the drive ring out on Squeeze Play. Had to limp home. I was able to replace it, Sun Ringle makes a drive ring tool for their hubs. I would ask the manufacturer if there is replacement parts and the tool available. If you are able to replace it you'll need some heat to get that drive ring out they're usually locktited in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cafeend Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 26 minutes ago, AustinBike said: When you have any doubts at all about lack of engagement, immediately pull the free hub and take a look. Here is what happens when you ignore it on a Chris King aluminum freehub: Serious question-- When it begins to look like that (mine is not that bad but noticeable) how much time is left? Whats the consequences of not replacing right away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 46 minutes ago, mack_turtle said: I'd rather not say just yet. You don't have to say, it shows the name in the video. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 46 minutes ago, Cafeend said: Serious question-- When it begins to look like that (mine is not that bad but noticeable) how much time is left? Whats the consequences of not replacing right away? I was getting a couple of slips per ride for about a month. I assumed there was a bad spot on my free hub. Then I was out at Pace Bend on a ride and it stripped almost completely in about 10 minutes. I had a big slip and turned around to head back. Within minutes, pedaling on flat ground, I was at the point where my feet were spinning like I dropped a chain. Just about every hub manufacturer has an alloy and a steel free hub. Don't cheap out, always replace with steel. It is a few bucks more but well worth it. The other issue with alloy is the bite marks from the cassette. You won't find that with steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cafeend Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 11 minutes ago, AustinBike said: I was getting a couple of slips per ride for about a month. I assumed there was a bad spot on my free hub. Then I was out at Pace Bend on a ride and it stripped almost completely in about 10 minutes. I had a big slip and turned around to head back. Within minutes, pedaling on flat ground, I was at the point where my feet were spinning like I dropped a chain. Just about every hub manufacturer has an alloy and a steel free hub. Don't cheap out, always replace with steel. It is a few bucks more but well worth it. The other issue with alloy is the bite marks from the cassette. You won't find that with steel. Thanks,, I pulled and cleaned the cog on my SS about two weeks ago and noticed slight gouging. Ill look into this , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 This whole gouging business is one of the reasons I'm happy to be largely using XD hubs. I don't know if the new MicroSpline fixes the gouging issue, but with regular splined, I agree steel is the way to go. You can still get some use out of a fubar gouged freehub by filling off the burs, but I'd still change to steel ASAP. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 13 minutes ago, Cafeend said: Thanks,, I pulled and cleaned the cog on my SS about two weeks ago and noticed slight gouging. Ill look into this , Gotta think this is worse on a SS due to the extra pressure and torque from only having one gear. I mash way harder on my SS so I ordered it with the steel free hub right off the bat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mack_turtle Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 has stripping out/ exploding the drive mechanism in hubs always been a problem, or does it seem somehow worse in recent years? Hubs are expensive and I never seem to have good luck long-term mashing on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teamsloan Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 I have seen some AL free hubs that insert one steel spline to prevent gouging. I have no idea how effective that is, but it seems like it could work and stay lighter weight. Another thing to consider is getting a cassette that has more cogs pinned together on carriers. The gouging I've seen happens more with cassettes that are made up of individual cogs and spacers. Really disappointing to hear that a Hadley is skipping like that. Hadleys have a solid reputation for being bombproof. I guess this is another reason why I really like DT Swiss hubs with their ratchet system. So reliable for the money. And then there's i9...but that's another thread. 😉 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonioGG Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 2 hours ago, AustinBike said: When you have any doubts at all about lack of engagement, immediately pull the free hub and take a look. Here is what happens when you ignore it on a Chris King aluminum freehub: This thread confuses me. Did you meant to post this picture to point at the helical gear? B/c it seems like everyone is focused on the cassette splines which have nothing to do with the pawls. Also CK hubs don't have pawls. How in the world did you helical gear get worn out like that? Did you use the special white grease or the new 2.0 version? I know once I tried regular grease and the hub did not work right. I had to get the good stuff. It's one time I bought the brand name instead of the regular manufacturer (3M) which was actually super expensive in bulk. https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2920/2114/files/hub-engagement-technical-bulletinfinal-1_0.pdf?2574156820612942588 Going back to the pawls, have you been replacing the springs too? I didn't see a picture of those. What grease on them? This is one spot where you need a super high pressure but low viscosity grease. I've had problems if I use the wrong type of grease on a hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 I posted this because people were saying that they were seeing slips and wondering how long they had. This is a warning not to wait too long. Did service the hub and did use the CK white lube. This was during my climbing challenge so I had climbed ~600,000+ feet in two years. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATXZJ Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Barry said: This whole gouging business is one of the reasons I'm happy to be largely using XD hubs. I don't know if the new MicroSpline fixes the gouging issue, but with regular splined, I agree steel is the way to go. You can still get some use out of a fubar gouged freehub by filling off the burs, but I'd still change to steel ASAP. 2 hours ago, AustinBike said: One of the biggest contributors to gouged hub bodies are cheap cassettes. Lower priced or poorly designed cassettes that stack multiple cogs, or sometimes all of them without an aluminum cassette body just destroys these AL hubs. XD solves this but can be expensive once you start getting into the billet stuff. Buying a cassette with an aluminum hub that all the larger cogs are attached to is a good alternative. You can also file down the damage and add the improved cassette and be just fine. Also, a good SS cog is even more important when it comes to this as the load is always on one spot of the body and an unevenly positioned cog can wear the bearing quicker. my crap 2c Edited April 28, 2020 by ATXZJ 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonioGG Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 2 minutes ago, ATXZJ said: Also, a good SS cog is even more important when it comes to this as the load is always on one spot of the body and an unevenly positioned cog can wear the bearing quicker. Endless Bike Co. cogs FTW! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mack_turtle Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 I've always used thick, steel singlespeed cogs like Surly on aluminum freehubs. never had a problem with gouging. gouging comes from cassettes that don't have a long carrier to hold most of the cogs together and under-tightened lock rings. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cafeend Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 Man, thanks for making me go down this rabbit hole now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATXZJ Posted April 28, 2020 Share Posted April 28, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, mack_turtle said: I've always used thick, steel singlespeed cogs like Surly on aluminum freehubs. never had a problem with gouging. gouging comes from cassettes that don't have a long carrier to hold most of the cogs together and under-tightened lock rings. Yep. Thick whether AL or steel will be fine as long as it's properly torqued. these type of cassettes below are to be avoided Edited April 28, 2020 by ATXZJ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_papa_nuts Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 I have an I9 Torch with a damaged ratchet ring that was doing that recently. New hub shell time. And old Odyssey BMX hubs would do that too. Poor tolerances. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cafeend Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 How are Dirt Component hubs in comparison to other options? Prices seem right and I dont think I have heard anything negative about their products in general?https://www.dirtcomponents.com/product-p/dbc4-mtb-standard-rear.htmSent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 I have a couple friends with Dirt wheels and they love them, but they can't speak to longevity as the wheelsets are less than a year old. At those prices if I were building up a wheel I'd be real tempted to try them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mack_turtle Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) 8 hours ago, Big_papa_nuts said: I have an I9 Torch with a damaged ratchet ring that was doing that recently. New hub shell time. And old Odyssey BMX hubs would do that too. Poor tolerances. Does I9 offer a service to replace the ratchet ring in those hubs? Or is is basically part of the hub once it's screwed in? I get the impression that some companies can replace drive rings but it's not a terribly common practice. Takeaway from this discussion: a little rear hub maintenance goes a long way! I think most people ride their bikes until the hub starts showing signs of wear in ride quality, and by then it's too late. Pull your rear hub apart and inspect the bearings and drive mechanism at least once a season. Grit gets in there and tears stuff up! Edited April 29, 2020 by mack_turtle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_papa_nuts Posted April 29, 2020 Share Posted April 29, 2020 2 hours ago, mack_turtle said: Does I9 offer a service to replace the ratchet ring in those hubs? Or is is basically part of the hub once it's screwed in? I get the impression that some companies can replace drive rings but it's not a terribly common practice. Takeaway from this discussion: a little rear hub maintenance goes a long way! I think most people ride their bikes until the hub starts showing signs of wear in ride quality, and by then it's too late. Pull your rear hub apart and inspect the bearings and drive mechanism at least once a season. Grit gets in there and tears stuff up! Ratchet rings are not replaceable in the Torches, IDK about the rest of their offerings. They did send a new hub shell even though it was out of the two year warranty period, but won't cover the cost to relace the wheel and told me to just reuse the spokes so... One of my favorite things about my DT 350 is the ease of maintenance. I don't even have to remove the cassette and I can pull the freehub, wipe everything down, smear on some fresh grease, and push it back together. I still don't do it very often but I don't need any special tools, or even ANY tools, to maintain the drive mechanism. Bearings are a different story. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.