Tech/Maintenance

[AustinBike]

24 minutes ago, Big_papa_nuts said:

One of my favorite things about my DT 350 is the ease of maintenance. I don't even have to remove the cassette and I can pull the freehub, wipe everything down, smear on some fresh grease, and push it back together. I still don't do it very often but I don't need any special tools, or even ANY tools, to maintain the drive mechanism. Bearings are a different story.

New end caps and free hub are coming in for my 350 by this weekend I hope. Pulling it all apart without tools was sweet.

[Teamsloan]

That was another appealing thing to me about moving to i9 hydras from my DT 350’s. I still have the ability to pull the free hub without taking off the cassette just like DT. I don’t think the drive ring is replaceable but I think the warranty is 7 years?

The new hydra internals are supposed to be way more durable and actually are engineered to engage more pawls the more torque you apply to them. I still love DT’s simplicity with the ratchet rings. But having close to that kind of serviceability along with 690 point of engagement is nice.


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[dlstyley]

How frequently do you lube?   The bike chain I mean...

I ride a lot of steep technical trail with lots of short, punchy climbs and since my fitness is still not there, the miles are pretty low, but frequency is high.   Say 3-6 miles and 500-1000’ of climbing, 3-5x per week.   Do you lube based on number miles? Rides? Hours? Squeaks?  Whenever you are feeling it?

 

 

[WLemke]

29 minutes ago, dlstyley said:

How frequently do you lube?   The bike chain I mean...

I ride a lot of steep technical trail with lots of short, punchy climbs and since my fitness is still not there, the miles are pretty low, but frequency is high.   Say 3-6 miles and 500-1000’ of climbing, 3-5x per week.   Do you lube based on number miles? Rides? Hours? Squeaks?  Whenever you are feeling it?

 

 

I wipe off my chain after every ride to get surface grime off. I use dry lube and will reapply once every 100 miles or so if riding in dry conditions. I clean the chain and reapply lube after every wet ride. Don’t know if that’s necessary but it doesn’t hurt. 

[Teamsloan]

I run Rock'n'Roll Blue on my chain and I probably apply every two to three rides. I try to remember to wipe off the chain before every ride though. If I know the chain has gone through a creek or caught out in the rain, then I'll re-apply before the next ride. Every 4 to 5 rides, I try to clean off the cassette, jockey wheels, and chainring. I'll usually end up re-lubing after doing that.

I can always hear when my chain is too dry. It's a kind of subtle grinding noise.

[AustinBike]

I typically use rock and roll gold. 

Since you're the bike expert here, can you explain the difference between blue and gold? Back when I got my Hammerhead I was told gold and have just been using that this whole time but am open to different options if there is a good reason.

[throet]

6 hours ago, Teamsloan said:

I run Rock'n'Roll Blue on my chain and I probably apply every two to three rides.

Ditto

[Chief]

I clean and lube when I start to hear the drive train making noise. Like Teammsloan said it's a subtle grinding noise. I've been using Progold for years. Doesn't last as long as a wax based lube but it also doesn't build up gunk as bad. 

[Tree Magnet]

I run Rock'n'Roll Blue on my chain and I probably apply every two to three rides. I try to remember to wipe off the chain before every ride though. If I know the chain has gone through a creek or caught out in the rain, then I'll re-apply before the next ride. Every 4 to 5 rides, I try to clean off the cassette, jockey wheels, and chainring. I'll usually end up re-lubing after doing that.
I can always hear when my chain is too dry. It's a kind of subtle grinding noise.

This is my exact routine as well. I hate the sound of a dirty chain.


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[Teamsloan]

I typically use rock and roll gold. 
Since you're the bike expert here, can you explain the difference between blue and gold? Back when I got my Hammerhead I was told gold and have just been using that this whole time but am open to different options if there is a good reason.

The blue was advertised to me as a dry conditions lube where the gold was a more general conditions lube. I don’t think there’s any huge reason for me to recommend switching as long as you have a routine that works.

I don’t like have a sticky chain, so I typically prefer a dry lube. It’s actually one of the things I dislike about new chains. I’m always tempted to clean the chain really well and then apply a fresh coat of the blue stuff. Then I can wipe it dry. If I lube too often it actually leads to more spooge building up on the drivetrain components, especially the jockey wheels.


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[Cafeend]

MTBR added an article about Lubes yesterday -- mostly just lists a bunch of various products really,, typical MTBR stuff , but a overview of options 

[Cafeend]

Is it possible that if a star nut is not 100% level in the fork that it makes adjusting the headset difficult.

Mine is off by a hair. less than a MM 

When my headset snugs up , the steering is stiff... when I back off the adjuster bolt a 1/4 turn loose the steering is smooth.

The only thing I can find "off" is the star nut seems a tad high in the front. 

[AntonioGG]

6 hours ago, Cafeend said:

Is it possible that if a star nut is not 100% level in the fork that it makes adjusting the headset difficult.

Mine is off by a hair. less than a MM 

When my headset snugs up , the steering is stiff... when I back off the adjuster bolt a 1/4 turn loose the steering is smooth.

The only thing I can find "off" is the star nut seems a tad high in the front. 

The star nut on one of my bikes is like this.  It makes adjusting this a bit harder than norma.  I haven't noticed an stiffness at any particular rotation, but I think it makes sense that it would since there's more pressure applied on one side (I think?)

[Chief]

I've installed my fair share of star nuts, some straight and square and some off just a slight bit. Have never noticed any problems with setting preload. I would imagine that if it's tilted significantly it would create issues. Are you noticing binding/stiffness at different points or overall? If it happens at different points your headset is not square in the head tube if it's overall it depends on what you consider stiff. I find that if I set my preload to where it's really smooth it will eventually get play and start knocking. I typically set my preload to where it just starts to get a little stiff and when I hold the fork crown while rocking the bike back and forth with the front brake held I don't feel any movement. Might be worth the investment in a star nut setter not that I use one but it would make sure it's square.

Here's an amusing star nut story though. When installing the one on my current bike I was holding the star nut with my hand around the steerer tube to try and get it started square using a socket to drive it into the steerer tube I happened to catch the webbing of my hand as I drove the nut down pinching it in the steerer tube. M'fer that hurt and now I'm walking around my garage with my fork attached to my hand looking for something to use to try and pry the star nut up enough to get my skin out Goddamn that hurt🤣

[AntonioGG]

1 hour ago, Chief said:

Here's an amusing star nut story though. When installing the one on my current bike I was holding the star nut with my hand around the steerer tube to try and get it started square using a socket to drive it into the steerer tube I happened to catch the webbing of my hand as I drove the nut down pinching it in the steerer tube. M'fer that hurt and now I'm walking around my garage with my fork attached to my hand looking for something to use to try and pry the star nut up enough to get my skin out Goddamn that hurt🤣

Oh man, I just felt virtual pain!

[Cafeend]

Thank you both .. Chief,, that story is pretty cringe worthy. Thats up there with catching ones finger in the spinning rotor. 

Back to my nut issue.  It is literally off by maybe a MM if that much. So snugging up the preload so there is no knock or bump at all , nothing then it is too stiff to move my bars. They do not freely move but the HS doesnt knock 

But if I do the preload where my bars move nice and free, there is a bump. Newish lower bearing , top bearings are the same as ever.  If I reassemble the headset there are no issues until the preload bolt is engaged. 

Id almost rather have the slightest knock to have a freely moving bar. A stiff one is scary. OK,, Insanity is doing the same thing over and over expecting different results,, so let me take this apart again , maybe this time Ill get lucky.

Thanks 

[AustinBike]

8 hours ago, Chief said:

I've installed my fair share of star nuts, some straight and square and some off just a slight bit. Have never noticed any problems with setting preload. I would imagine that if it's tilted significantly it would create issues. Are you noticing binding/stiffness at different points or overall? If it happens at different points your headset is not square in the head tube if it's overall it depends on what you consider stiff. I find that if I set my preload to where it's really smooth it will eventually get play and start knocking. I typically set my preload to where it just starts to get a little stiff and when I hold the fork crown while rocking the bike back and forth with the front brake held I don't feel any movement. Might be worth the investment in a star nut setter not that I use one but it would make sure it's square.

Here's an amusing star nut story though. When installing the one on my current bike I was holding the star nut with my hand around the steerer tube to try and get it started square using a socket to drive it into the steerer tube I happened to catch the webbing of my hand as I drove the nut down pinching it in the steerer tube. M'fer that hurt and now I'm walking around my garage with my fork attached to my hand looking for something to use to try and pry the star nut up enough to get my skin out Goddamn that hurt🤣

I can’t unfeel this

[ATXZJ]

13 hours ago, Chief said:

I've installed my fair share of star nuts, some straight and square and some off just a slight bit. Have never noticed any problems with setting preload. I would imagine that if it's tilted significantly it would create issues. Are you noticing binding/stiffness at different points or overall? If it happens at different points your headset is not square in the head tube if it's overall it depends on what you consider stiff. I find that if I set my preload to where it's really smooth it will eventually get play and start knocking. I typically set my preload to where it just starts to get a little stiff and when I hold the fork crown while rocking the bike back and forth with the front brake held I don't feel any movement. Might be worth the investment in a star nut setter not that I use one but it would make sure it's square.

Here's an amusing star nut story though. When installing the one on my current bike I was holding the star nut with my hand around the steerer tube to try and get it started square using a socket to drive it into the steerer tube I happened to catch the webbing of my hand as I drove the nut down pinching it in the steerer tube. M'fer that hurt and now I'm walking around my garage with my fork attached to my hand looking for something to use to try and pry the star nut up enough to get my skin out Goddamn that hurt🤣

You didn't think this would be easy.............

 

Starnut installation tool was the best $10 lve spent at jenson

Edited May 21, 2020 by ATXZJ

[mack_turtle]

• find a socket that fits with a little wiggle room inside your steerer tube.
• put a washer on a  headset compression bolt and put it in the socket
• thread a nut on the other end where the bolt protrudes from the socket
• spin your star nut onto the exposed threads of the bolt
• set the star nut in the steerer and give it a few whacks with a rubber mallet. the socket will keep it somewhat straight

yes, a $10-20 star nut setter tool will do a better job, but in a pinch, if you only do these rarely, a socket and some washer will do the same thing.

[Teamsloan]

Just get the dang tool. It's not expensive and it totally fits in to the "Right tool for the job" category. When you use it you'll be like, "Well, that was SO easy!" The same thing goes for true cable housing cutters, hydraulic brake line cutters (not the same as cable cutters), and fork steerer tube cutting guides. These tools are rarely used, expensive, and SOOO effective at their job that it's completely worth it!

[AustinBike]

I agree 100% on the cable housing cutters, but for brake line I always used a utility knife and never had a problem. What is the benefit of the brake line cutter?

[Chief]

2 hours ago, AustinBike said:

I agree 100% on the cable housing cutters, but for brake line I always used a utility knife and never had a problem. What is the benefit of the brake line cutter?

I use one of these works great. Had from some home project has multiple uses.

 

[Teamsloan]

It’s kinda silly actually. They just cut fast and easy. I like the ergonomics of it and there’s a really satisfying snap they make when they cut. It’s really nothing more than a housing for a spring loaded razor blade. It’s just one of those simple tools that are really effective.

https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/jagwire-sport-hydraulic-brake-line-cutter



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[Chief]

8 hours ago, Teamsloan said:

It’s kinda silly actually. They just cut fast and easy. I like the ergonomics of it and there’s a really satisfying snap they make when they cut. It’s really nothing more than a housing for a spring loaded razor blade. It’s just one of those simple tools that are really effective.

https://www.worldwidecyclery.com/products/jagwire-sport-hydraulic-brake-line-cutter



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Nice tool. Unfortunately Jagwire cables are junk. 

[Teamsloan]

<looks at the fleet> I've got Jagwire cables on every bike in the garage. 😛