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On 5/18/2020 at 4:17 PM, Cafeend said:

Is it possible that if a star nut is not 100% level in the fork that it makes adjusting the headset difficult.

Mine is off by a hair. less than a MM 

When my headset snugs up , the steering is stiff... when I back off the adjuster bolt a 1/4 turn loose the steering is smooth.

The only thing I can find "off" is the star nut seems a tad high in the front. 

Seen a friend install many star nuts by using a bolt about 2-3" longer than the stem cap bolt threaded into star nut and tapping it in with a mallet.  If the bolt is centered in the steerer tube your stem cap bolt should thread in easily.  You can buy a longer bolt for a bit of leverage and push the bolt a bit to center it and it will force that side of the star nut to move down and center things up.  The one thing to be careful of is don't screw up and drive the star nut too far down where your stem cap bolt can't grab it. Then you get to start over.  Guess how I know. 😉 

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Took apart my first BB this weekend. I could see the press fit cups had gaps between the frame and there was some creaking going on. Took apart all the threaded pieces pressed the cups back flush cleaned greased and reassembled. I can't tell that I did any damage so far. The beater bike lives another day.

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Just now, circuitbreaker said:

silly question here. Do yall have any tips for crimping cable ends? what tool do you use?

i've done it plenty, but i always feel they come out 'ugly'.

I use my electrical multi-tool pliers.  Same as you'd use to crimp a terminal over a wire.

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13 minutes ago, circuitbreaker said:

silly question here. Do yall have any tips for crimping cable ends? what tool do you use?

i've done it plenty, but i always feel they come out 'ugly'.

diagonal cutters. squeeze the cable end in the blades until they crimp, but does not cut all the way through. crimp two diagonal lines, then a diagonal one connecting them like Zorro!

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28 minutes ago, circuitbreaker said:

like this? this is what i use (but the cheap radioshack one), and i crimp by the red dot.

466FL.gif

I usually crimp by the 22-18 part to the RIGHT of the pivot. I crimp right near the opening of the cable end nib and then crimp again in the middle of the nib.

Edited by Teamsloan
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I don't use 'em. I use a double layer of heat shrink tubing. Cut a length to cover the entire length of the exposed cable, melt, repeat. I not necessarily saying it works better than a properly crimped cap, but I never seem to properly crimp the caps. I've haven't had any problems with this method once I started doing the full length and double wrap. (My first attempt at this hack was just a single layer about the same coverage as an end cap, and that didn't last.) Bonus is that it looks cleaner (IMO) and you can get it in a variety of colors. 

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Anyone here have experience with the 3 piece Truvativ powerspline crank/bb setup? 

My bikes biggest issues is this, and I want to change it. I just want to make sure I buy the right parts and have the proper tools to pull that crank out. 
 

This is the bike: 

https://www.diamondback.com/mountain-bikes/hardtail-bikes/syncr-carbon

This is what I’m assuming per the bikes website the proper BB:

https://www.jensonusa.com/Truvativ-Powerspline-Bottom-Bracket

And this is the BB I’m anticipating replacing it with (68/73mm shell):

https://www.jensonusa.com/SRAM-Dub-English-Threaded-Bottom-Bracket

With this crank:

https://www.jensonusa.com/SRAM-GX-Eagle-Dub-Boost-148-Crankset
 

Please tell me I’m doing this correct, and if not, what I need to do differently  

 

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It all looks like it should fit to me.  The fact that the SRAM Dub bottom bracket touts "...compatibility with all existing frame shell standards" should give you some confidence.  With these plus bikes, you have to make sure you get a crank that can handle the spacing.  That GX Eagle has it in the name so I'm thinking you're good.

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3 hours ago, bestbike85 said:

Anyone here have experience with the 3 piece Truvativ powerspline crank/bb setup? 

My bikes biggest issues is this, and I want to change it. I just want to make sure I buy the right parts and have the proper tools to pull that crank out. 
 

This is the bike: 

https://www.diamondback.com/mountain-bikes/hardtail-bikes/syncr-carbon

This is what I’m assuming per the bikes website the proper BB:

https://www.jensonusa.com/Truvativ-Powerspline-Bottom-Bracket

And this is the BB I’m anticipating replacing it with (68/73mm shell):

https://www.jensonusa.com/SRAM-Dub-English-Threaded-Bottom-Bracket

With this crank:

https://www.jensonusa.com/SRAM-GX-Eagle-Dub-Boost-148-Crankset
 

Please tell me I’m doing this correct, and if not, what I need to do differently  

 

You've got it right, that should work just fine. I wish we had your frame modeled in our database, this is exactly what our site is designed to help with. Give me a little bit, I'll enter your frame in and then you can check all the part compatibility you want. 🙂

https://cyclingbuilder.com/list/rRBPxr

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1 hour ago, Teamsloan said:

It is. I don’t mean to spam the forum, but the site is made to solve exactly the problem you were having and I couldn’t help it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If someone says that’s spam we will boo that man. Awesome info and I look forward to using your website. 

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Just about 2200 miles on this Specialized Turbo Pro 28mm rear tire.  I probably rode it 200 miles too far.  I’m very impressed with this tire as far as puncture resistance and grip.  So much so that it’s the first time in years that I don’t get a Continental Gatorskin tire.  The Spesh is cheaper too!

I also replaced the chain at the same mileage.  It was between .5 and .75 (closer to .5) on a Park CC-2 chain wear tool, and 120.3mm with a caliper looking at the same distance as the CC-2.  The new chain is 119.6mm and I’m going to track the wear and plot it (those they know me wouldn’t be surprised).

48E98BFB-1F59-464F-8ED1-35E3B36E8897.jpeg

7F170C2F-DA25-4951-98F0-7C7D98233DEB.jpeg

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So I started an underground bike repair service out of my backyard workshop last Friday. Few interesting things I've learned so far:

  1. Many adults are unable to change an inner tube.
  2. Chain lubrication is optional
  3. Front forks and rear shock stanchions covered in a dirt/oil mixture must currently be in style
  4. Front derailleurs should be illegal
  5. More is better, especially when it comes to air pressure in the front fork

Anyways. Been having a lot of fun so far. Interestingly enough, all 12 bikes I've worked on are MTBs. I guess all roadies do their own maintenance. I've worked on everything from the rustiest BSO from walmart to a Santa Cruz Megatower. Currently at $420 in revenue. Only $5,580 till my new bike!

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