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54 minutes ago, notyal said:


I’d be surprised if PUSH was selling a kit with the wrong oil. Maybe it’s just the image.

No, they sell the kit with 10wt for some reason.  I actually talked to a guy from PUSH one day out at Spider Mtn. and asked his why they sold the kit with a different wt oil than what was recommended by the manufacturer.  He didn't really have a good answer, but basically said he thought you could use 10wt and not notice much of a difference.  The conversation didn't give me much confidence, but not long after that I sold the bike so I didn't end up following through with my plans to service the lowers.

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15 hours ago, taco_junkie said:

Ahh crap now I've got some spare oil? Jenson!

Definitely just use the stuff in the kit.  Bath oil is truly not a demanding job for oil and I'd be shocked if PUSH got it wrong. 

I contacted MRP about bath oil and they were like "5-10wt, or you know, whatever."  I thought that wasn't specific enough and went down an oil research rabbit hole and it turns out the whole "wt" classification system has a ton of wiggle room.  One brand of 10wt may be heavier than another 20wt.  I've used Fox 20wt and Lucas 5wt in that fork and they were both fine, and I'm really picky about fork performance.

Another pro tip:  Use slick honey on the wiper seals instead of float fluid. (I actually don't know if fox still recommends float fluid in recent years)

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First time this has happened to me 

Noticed a flat yesterday after putting this bike up last Saturday. Almost every spoke is leaking on the front wheel. 
 

Best plan of action? I’ve never had to deal with this before. 
 

ETA: could it be as simple as a poor tubeless tape job that’s took 200 miles of riding to really uncover? Or is this a bigger problem? Would I start with re-tapeing? 

75BB4373-853C-41EE-BAAA-D92F3FD020C1.png

Edited by bestbike85
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First time this has happened to me 
Noticed a flat yesterday after putting this bike up last Saturday. Almost every spoke is leaking on the front wheel. 
 
Best plan of action? I’ve never had to deal with this before. 
 
ETA: could it be as simple as a poor tubeless tape job that’s took 200 miles of riding to really uncover? Or is this a bigger problem? Would I start with re-tapeing? 
75BB4373-853C-41EE-BAAA-D92F3FD020C1.thumb.png.bf1dbbb3263f879e17a15e1dcc65e746.png

I think your wheel has rabies.

I wonder if the heat has something to do with the tape degrading.


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2 hours ago, bestbike85 said:

First time this has happened to me 

Noticed a flat yesterday after putting this bike up last Saturday. Almost every spoke is leaking on the front wheel. 
 

Best plan of action? I’ve never had to deal with this before. 
 

ETA: could it be as simple as a poor tubeless tape job that’s took 200 miles of riding to really uncover? Or is this a bigger problem? Would I start with re-tapeing? 

75BB4373-853C-41EE-BAAA-D92F3FD020C1.png

What tape are you using? It only takes one spot to leak to cause something like that.

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2 hours ago, bestbike85 said:

First time this has happened to me 

Noticed a flat yesterday after putting this bike up last Saturday. Almost every spoke is leaking on the front wheel. 
 

Best plan of action? I’ve never had to deal with this before. 
 

ETA: could it be as simple as a poor tubeless tape job that’s took 200 miles of riding to really uncover? Or is this a bigger problem? Would I start with re-tapeing? 

75BB4373-853C-41EE-BAAA-D92F3FD020C1.png

My son's rear wheel did this.  It had a homemade tubeless setup with what I'm guessing was gorilla tape (does it look like duct tape? I've never actually seen it).  I took that tape off, cleaned very well and taped with Stan's tape.  It still leaked.  I then replaced the valve that was in there with a Stan's valve, and it still leaked.  It eventually sealed up.  My guess is there's some kind of micro-crack somewhere where the tape doesn't cover it.  If you figure yours out, please post up.

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Had the same problem with my wife’s wheel, the factory tubeless ready tape had peeled up in a small, let’s say 3/4 inch area. I ripped that tape off, cleaned the rim thoroughly and re taped with tried and true gorilla tape. No problems since!

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9 minutes ago, 4fun said:

Had the same problem with my wife’s wheel, the factory tubeless ready tape had peeled up in a small, let’s say 3/4 inch area. I ripped that tape off, cleaned the rim thoroughly and re taped with tried and true gorilla tape. No problems since!

Nice. I’ve had continuous success (only 3 sets of wheels, but still success) with gorilla tape. Sounds like I have something to do after this stupid gender reveal party. Will keep you all posted. 

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tape really ought to go up the sidewall on the inside of the rim. the tape should be a bit wider than the rim. for example, if your rim is 25mm inside, you tape should be 29mm or so. rims often have additional holes in them from the manufacturing process that can let sealant into the rim.

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Generally any time I do tubeless it takes me a few rides before it truly "settles in" and holds air. Usually the first few times I need to put air in. The very first time I inflate, I typically hit somewhere in the mid to upper 40's then ride it around the block a few times. This typically takes care of the initial seating. Then, when I get home from rides I push it to the mid-upper 30's and it is fine.

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7 hours ago, ATXZJ said:

I gave up on tape years ago and just started buying latex rim strips.

Worth every penny

https://www.effettomariposa.eu/en/products/caffelatex-tubeless-strip/

That's pretty cool.  

My son's specialized came with some kind of "2bliss" strips not installed.  Has anyone used these strips?  Is that sort of like the caffelatex strips?

My other son's home rolled tubeless setup sucks.  A burp results in the tire bead coming off and not being able to add pressure.  I'm thinking I'll need a few more layers of tape to build up that shoulder so the tire seals up a bit better.  It fits very loose on those rims.

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On 5/27/2020 at 2:14 PM, mack_turtle said:

diagonal cutters. squeeze the cable end in the blades until they crimp, but does not cut all the way through. crimp two diagonal lines, then a diagonal one connecting them like Zorro!

Hey, this actually worked really well, thanks for the tip! 

i did have to do a few test ones to find the right amount of force. but really happy that my cable ends are now 'pretty'.

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