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1 hour ago, mack_turtle said:

it's there so I can grab it and dig out the grime that gets stuck between my chainstay and my tire, which has a gap of about 3mm.  it does not do anything in that spot, that was just the tidiest place to store it. it's also a good "conversation starter."

I've tried different tire sizes and stuff and this is the smallest tire I can stand on the terrain and also the largest tire that can possibly fit.

I have to say that I'm a little disappointed. I bet you can find a mounting spot that actively brushes off caked up mud. 

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5 minutes ago, notyal said:

I have to say that I'm a little disappointed. I bet you can find a mounting spot that actively brushes off caked up mud. 

the mud collects on the chainstays. most options involve mounting a scraper right on top of the chainstay where it's going to get sucked in. it's possible, but there's a moving and chain and stuff right here. scraping it at the seat stays might work.  I'll think of something!

Edited by mack_turtle
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Shimano is a weird company. They say they use mineral oil because it's better for the environment, but when the seals in your hydraulic brakes don't do their job anymore, you're supposed to throw the whole system in the trash. They don't sell master cylinder parts or piston seals. I'm not that surprised but still disappointed.

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37 minutes ago, mack_turtle said:

Shimano is a weird company. They say they use mineral oil because it's better for the environment, but when the seals in your hydraulic brakes don't do their job anymore, you're supposed to throw the whole system in the trash. They don't sell master cylinder parts or piston seals. I'm not that surprised but still disappointed.

Or you could recycle all the metal.

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9 hours ago, Teamsloan said:

Hope. Rebuildable and made from recyclable aluminum. Never mind about the DOT fluid, it kills zebra mussels.


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The big difference I found between Hope and Shimano is that Shimano is easily bleedable by idiots like me in 5 minutes with a $20 kit from Amazon. Bleeding Hopes always meant a shop for me.

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Okay, popped a spoke on my 6 month old wheels. i9 Enduro S with steel straight pull spokes. I’ve got a replacement spoke. What I don’t have is a tensiometer. I’ve trued wheels before, but it was just to get them back straight. I’m thinking with the wheels being new, the tension might be off causing the premature spoke popping. Anyone have a tensiometer? I want to get this wheel set dialed right. The spoke snapped right at the thread/nipple.


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18 hours ago, Teamsloan said:

Anyone have a tensiometer?
 

I've got this one https://www.probikekit.com/bicycle-tools-and-maintenance-nc/park-tool-tm-1-spoke-tension-meter/10772242.html?affil=thggpsad&switchcurrency=USD&shippingcountry=US&shoppingpid=TOP10_buyerspicks_201217_&&thg_ppc_campaign=71700000008665604&gclid=CjwKCAjw4MP5BRBtEiwASfwAL6uwm5gOLqdl7b9Zz-gjwKIX34BASuMovGazy_4ZUniyqKIvbu1McBoC2YIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Admittedly, it's not super accurate, but it gets the job done. I've built numerous wheels using it and never had an issue. You're welcome to borrow it but I live pretty far north, like 1431/Lakeline area.

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Thanks guys, one was already offered up to me. Good to know that there are others out there.

I spent some time looking this morning at the broken spoke/nipple. It snapped right at the end of the threads leaving the threaded part in the nipple. While I have a spare spoke that came with the wheelset, I didn't really think about the fact that I might need a new nipple. So with nothing to lose, I took out the nipple from the rim and tried threading in the broken spoke. I guess the broken end was uneven enough to kind of interlock with the rest of the spoke and I was able to thread it out the back of the nipple. *Phew* That saved me from having to make a trip to a shop or wait for the mail. So I was able to then lace in the new spoke and thread it in to the nipple on the rim.

Now, the next challenge...how do you keep a straight pull spoke from spinning while trying to true up the wheel? I ended up wrapping the spoke in a piece of inner tube and clamping it with some vice grips but I kept thinking there's gotta be a better way.

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24 minutes ago, Teamsloan said:

Now, the next challenge...how do you keep a straight pull spoke from spinning while trying to true up the wheel? I ended up wrapping the spoke in a piece of inner tube and clamping it with some vice grips but I kept thinking there's gotta be a better way.

I just keep track of it.  Usually if things are OK, it will twist a bit then start threading in.  It will maybe twist 90°.  So once I get the adjustment I want, I untwist the 90° making sure it doesn't unthread.  I use Wheelsmith spoke prep though. I'm not sure how much different a dry or lubed spoke will behave.

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My DT Swiss 350 hubs on my Blur were straight pull and I never had an issue. I love that wheeset. Now I've got the i9 Enduro S Hydra hubs on the Ripmo. I'm now spoiled and probably can never go back to any other hub. The Enduro S is like their system hubs in that they are straight pull, but the hub's flanges aren't threaded. Instead they use normal straight pull spokes. If I break any more spokes then I'm probably just going to get the wheels re-laced with all new DT-Swiss db spokes and maybe take the opportunity to move to Chinese carbon rims. I probably should have just ordered up the Hydra J-bend hubs and gone with a custom wheel from the get-go. But the price of the Enduro S set is a great value at around 2/3 the price of their Enduro 305 system wheels.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Picked up another Specialized Hotrock 20" with a taco'd rim. Either the youth was over shooting their landings or mom/dad ran over it with the minivan. The rear wheel spins but tire rubs hard on frame along a section, can be rotated 360° if forced through bent spot. Rest of the bike is solid, what would you guys do? Can the rim be saved? Replace the whole wheel? Replace a new rim? 

 

20200822_095737.jpg

1598108715469991118327726668737.jpg

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