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I only had one defective trailboss that had a wobble. WTB was quick to warranty with no issues.

My frustration with WTB has been with their weight. They are heavy for their size with thinner sidewalls compared to their competition. The nano 2.2  tcs light was significantly narrower yet heavier than the racing ralph 2.35 snakeskin I replaced it with. That was the same with the 2.2 trail boss vs 2.35 nobby nic we swapped up front.They also seem to weep a lot of sealant through the sidewalls.  

I have several almost new wtb 29s that you guys are welcome to. Just bring a local sixer and theyre  yours.

 

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17 hours ago, ATXZJ said:

IMHO, maxxis EXO and EXO plus are pretty durable for here. From most aggressive rear down:

 

DHR2 

dissector

aggressor

rekon

ikon 

 

Lot of people swear by the aggressor as a good rear tire for CTX. If i could run wider than 2.3 i'd be all over a DHF/Rekon combo. Had DHF/Griffin and recently swapped to hans D & rock razor with an insert. Night and day for rolling resistance.

My other bike has 2.6 DHF & DHR with insert and feels like the parking brake is on🤣

100% on that last point. I put 2.8 DHR and 2.6DHF on my hard tail and it feels like pedaling through mud. 
 

thanks for the help. I finally got this tire seated and after the pain in the ass I just went through I will definitely be switching on the next run. 

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Santa brought me some WTB Raddler 40 x 700 gravel tires for XMas. 

Is there a source for what max size internal rim width will work for this tire? We have some older 29er wheels to mount them on, but I don't want to get into a ride and discover that the tires will pop off that particular rim. 

I didn't see anything on the WTB site that addressed this.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Quick question. Long buildup. I have a relatively new friend I got into the sport. He ripped his derailleur and hanger off his bike when we were riding a few months ago and I wrongly assumed he must have hit a branch or something to cause this (derailleur completely mangled). I talked him into replacing his 2x10 Sram drive train with a 1x shimano drive train and he bought a new derailleur hanger. He finally got all the parts in a I put it all together and found out the culprit is his rear hub isn't freewheeling correctly and creates chain suck or something that looks like it. The rear hub is a QR 135 Shimano Deore and likely is loose ball hub. This being said, has anyone seen this before and is it worth trying to tear it apart and rebuild it? Or is the hub completely blown and I should have him buy a new wheel?

Edited by 4fun
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2 hours ago, 4fun said:

,has anyone seen this before and is it worth trying to tear it apart and rebuild it? Or is the hub completely blown and I should have him buy a new wheel?

Hold the hub close to your phone/ computer so I can.. JK.

It might be worth fixing without replacing the wheel. IME, sometimes on a loose-ball bearing hub drive side lock nut comes loose and the spinnging bearing cause the cone but to spin in and can crush the hub. XT hubs were notorious for this a few years ago.

There's a good chance that the hub can just be taken apart, greased up, and rebuilt, but the pressure from the cone nuts might have damages the cones or the hub. Nothing to loose if you dig in and find out.

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14 hours ago, TheX said:

He's right ya know!

So I pulled it apart last night and did a little google research! And this particular freehub body seems to have a limited life span varying between 1k and 2.5k miles depending on what forum post you read. And replacing the freehub body only costs about $14, so it's essentially disposable. Only problem is it's sold out/backordered every place I looked! Ended up ordering a marginally higher end freehub body that appears to fit the spline on the hub for $25 on Amazon. Keeping fingers crossed it works, but if it doesn't easy return and my friend keeps getting to ride my 2nd bike😁

Edited by 4fun
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Shimano's endless selection of freehub "standards" is infuriating. you'd think Shimano could find a way to make that work, but no. 1,000 different types of freehubs and if your hub is more than 5 years old, there's a good chance that you cannot find a replacement. I'm hopeful that it works for you, but I don't think it will. you probably need the EXACT freehub that they designed for that hub body.

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On 1/19/2021 at 10:48 AM, mack_turtle said:

Shimano's endless selection of freehub "standards" is infuriating. you'd think Shimano could find a way to make that work, but no. 1,000 different types of freehubs and if your hub is more than 5 years old, there's a good chance that you cannot find a replacement. I'm hopeful that it works for you, but I don't think it will. you probably need the EXACT freehub that they designed for that hub body.

So im at the infuriating point, the new freehub got here quickly. Fit and bolted on no problems, runs very smooth. Then replaced axles and cones and found out the cup sits further laterally and so wheel rubbed the left side of frame. I figure I'll just move spacers around and no big deal. Unfortunately the cone nut is too wide to make the correction. So now I'm trying to find a narrower cone nut! Which is sold out everywhere. I will probably head to the lbs and see if the have any in the random bolts bin? I'd have my friend buy a new wheel but that is Also a challenge to find in old school QR. So if anyone has a 29" 135 QR wheel collecting dust in the garage let me know.

Edited by 4fun
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45 minutes ago, 4fun said:

I will probably head to the lbs and see if the have any in the random bolts bin? I'd have my friend buy a new wheel but that is a challenge to find now!

try to find the correct cone nuts based on the exact hub model # and this https://wheelsmfg.com/products/hub-parts/all-cones.html

if the hub as the correct cone nuts already, the guide above should tell you the dimensions so you know what you need.

you might also get the wheel straight centered again by centering the rim as best you can by adjusting the distribution of cone nuts, lock nuts, and spacers so it all adds up to 135mm (presumably, that's the OLD you're working with) and make up the rest by adjusting the "dish" through spoke tension.

I am happy to hear that the freehub actually fit, though!

Edited by mack_turtle
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43 minutes ago, 4fun said:

So im at the infuriating point, the new freehub got here quickly. Fit and bolted on no problems, runs very smooth. Then replaced axles and cones and found out the cup sits further laterally and so wheel rubbed the left side of frame. I figure I'll just move spacers around and no big deal. Unfortunately the cone nut is too wide to make the correction. So now I'm trying to find a narrower cone nut! Which is sold out everywhere. I will probably head to the lbs and see if the have any in the random bolts bin? I'd have my friend buy a new wheel but that is Also a challenge to find in old school QR. So if anyone has a 29" 135 QR wheel collecting dust in the garage let me know.

I may have some spare cones laying around if the LBS is a no go.  Let me know the width you need and I can go and measure. 
 

I also have a spare 700c QR hub wheel laying around. The rim might be too narrow for a MTB but it’s something. 

Edited by WLemke
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26 minutes ago, WLemke said:

I may have some spare cones laying around if the LBS is a no go.  Let me know the width you need and I can go and measure. 
 

I also have a spare 700c QR hub wheel laying around. The rim might be too narrow for a MTB but it’s something. 

Thanks I appreciate it.

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My time to ask for help.  On my fairly new gravel grinder (only about 1000 miles) with GRX, I have a clicking sound (does not sound like a loose BB) but only when I apply high torque to the pedals.  The gear doesn't seem to matter.  It's a double click with every revolution.  This means I think it's going to be hard for me to reproduce on the stand.  I would normally have thought it has to be a stiff link except for the correlation to revolution.  Maybe it is a BB creak and it just sounds different to me?

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6 minutes ago, AntonioGG said:

My time to ask for help.  On my fairly new gravel grinder (only about 1000 miles) with GRX, I have a clicking sound (does not sound like a loose BB) but only when I apply high torque to the pedals.  The gear doesn't seem to matter.  It's a double click with every revolution.  This means I think it's going to be hard for me to reproduce on the stand.  I would normally have thought it has to be a stiff link except for the correlation to revolution.  Maybe it is a BB creak and it just sounds different to me?

Pressfit or threaded BB?

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20 minutes ago, AntonioGG said:

My time to ask for help.  On my fairly new gravel grinder (only about 1000 miles) with GRX, I have a clicking sound (does not sound like a loose BB) but only when I apply high torque to the pedals.  The gear doesn't seem to matter.  It's a double click with every revolution.  This means I think it's going to be hard for me to reproduce on the stand.  I would normally have thought it has to be a stiff link except for the correlation to revolution.  Maybe it is a BB creak and it just sounds different to me?

the last time I chased a noise like that, it was a slightly under-torqued pedal. I'd start by just checking that pedals, chainring bolts, crank bolts, etc are all sufficiently torqued.

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46 minutes ago, AntonioGG said:

My time to ask for help.  On my fairly new gravel grinder (only about 1000 miles) with GRX, I have a clicking sound (does not sound like a loose BB) but only when I apply high torque to the pedals.  The gear doesn't seem to matter.  It's a double click with every revolution.  This means I think it's going to be hard for me to reproduce on the stand.  I would normally have thought it has to be a stiff link except for the correlation to revolution.  Maybe it is a BB creak and it just sounds different to me?

I've seen this when there was an issue with my rear quick-release axle.  I'm suspecting you don't have quick release skewers but check that spacer that is pressed against the frame by the axle.  That had cracked on mine and resulted in a little tick that drove me nuts for a few rides.

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I had a ticking coming from bike two or three rides after building it. I thought it was the left side pedal or BB because it would click under load when climbing. Turned out to be the seat post, not enough grease when I assembled the bike. Noises drive me nuts! I hate it when my bike isn't quite and I have to trouble shoot where noise is coming from. Carbon frames amplify all sounds making it even more annoying.

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BB is threaded and it makes noise off the saddle so it's not the seatpost.

Both my pedals were slightly loose (maybe 5° turn on the wrench) but not loose-loose.  The noise is still there.

I cleaned and lubed the chain and adjusted my derraileurs thinking that could have been it...it wasn't.

It's starting to sound more like a BB problem so I'll probably take it off, clean, lube and re-install.

At a 1000 miles from new, I probably need to do a full service including adjusting the headset, BB, checking spoke tension and hub adjustments.

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