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Tech/Maintenance


Chief

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14 hours ago, Teamsloan said:


I have a set of i9 Enduro S wheels that are a year old. In the fall I popped two spokes and sent it in to i9. The service rep with i9 said that they actually were have a small issue on a batch of their steel spoked wheels with spoke windup during the builds. This would result in de-tensioning once the wheel was ridden. Apparently their de-tentioning process during the build wasn’t working. They took my wheel back and rebuilt it completely with all new spokes and nips. So far so good. If your i9’s were bought new I would contact them.


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Thanks - I contemplated reaching out to I9, but I was thinking it might be a while before I get the wheel back (and I'm super lazy when it comes to packing things up and shipping).

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18 minutes ago, loop_out said:

Thanks - I contemplated reaching out to I9, but I was thinking it might be a while before I get the wheel back (and I'm super lazy when it comes to packing things up and shipping).

I would call them just to probe them for more info. If they will actually tell you, you really want to know if it is a materials or a assembly issue. If it was an assembly issue and not a problem with a batch of spokes or nipples, then they can be easily trued up locally. If the answer is they got a bad batch of parts, then you want to send them off. If not for you, for future resale.

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  • 1 month later...

I was out riding Emma long this weekend and about half way through I started hearing this slight squeak when my suspension would compress. My Fox float X2 has been noticeably louder over the past few rides so I assumed it was the X2’s way of telling me enough was enough. I called the ride after one lap to prevent any long term damage.

 

The next day I took my X2 off and replaced it with my back up DPX2. Took the bike out for a test spin and the squeak was still there! I spent the next 30 mins swapping between shocks, cleaning various contact point along the way but the noise persisted. Very strange.

 

Here is the noise. It’s much easier to hear IRL but there is a distinct squeak.

I ended up taking the entire suspension apart, cleaned the bushings, de-grimed everything, and regreased.

 

3f73b387c7caccacb99da98137ca35e9.jpg

 

Once everything was back together, I was pleased to hear that the squeak was gone! The shock still needs to be serviced but at least one issue was solved.

 

Here is the post service noise. Once again, hard to hear the difference but there isn’t a squeak this time if you compare the videos back to back.

 

Tangentially related, I’m really impressed with Ibis’ bushing system. They seem to have held up really well after 972 hard miles. While the bushing surfaces were dirty, they wiped clean and didn’t seem to have much of any wear. We’ll see if they make it another 972 miles...

 

Edited by WLemke
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In all seriousness, those look like the same type of bushings as my Czar and I still have a rear end suspension creak when putting a side load on the bike even after a complete teardown and rebuild.

I think one of my creaks is from the shock needing new a new bushing, but there's something else going on (on top of the fretting corrosion issue on the fork uppers).

And yes those bushings should last thousands of miles.  Do Ibis come with zerk fittings to push clean lube in and dirty lube out without having to do a teardown?

 

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Yeah, the ibis linkage doesn’t use as much grease as the VPP linkages. I had the zerk fittings on my BlurLT. Thought they were cool at first, but they never really worked right. Just wasted grease.

Even if the Ripmo’s bushings went bad, they have a lifetime replacement from ibis, similar to SC’s bearing replacement. I’ve torn down my Ripmo’s rear end and was very happy with how things looked as well. Not the easiest bolts to get to on that upper link, but oh well.


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11 minutes ago, Teamsloan said:

I’ve torn down my Ripmo’s rear end and was very happy with how things looked as well. Not the easiest bolts to get to on that upper link, but oh well.

Not easy at all. It was difficult to get the aluminum upper link aligned when reinstalling. For the inside bolts on the upper link I couldn’t fit my torque wrench in there so hopefully my “perceived” 10nm is good. 

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Man, I finally got my bb replaced (big thanks to @WLemke for the use of his 12 notch bb tool) but not after struggling to remove my cranks. Having removed/installed numerous cranks in the past, I felt confident that I was doing it right. But the 8mm extractor bolt was not moving at all. A quick online search revealed that this is a common issue with SRAM cranks. I'm not sure whether it's a design flaw (queue the SRAM haters) or just over torquing during the install, but it seems that lots of people run into trouble when trying to remove their cranks for the first time. I ended up stopping by AutoZone after my ride yesterday and picking up an 18" breaker bar to get some more leverage. That finally did the trick and everything went smoothly after that.

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1 hour ago, olddbrider said:

I ended up stopping by AutoZone after my ride yesterday and picking up an 18" breaker bar to get some more leverage.

I got an 18" piece of Galvanized pipe that slips over my socket wrench for just such needs.... Pedals for me those suckers always get stuck, finally just take them off every 3 months or so to solve that issue.

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1 hour ago, Taco Man said:

I got an 18" piece of Galvanized pipe that slips over my socket wrench for just such needs.... Pedals for me those suckers always get stuck, finally just take them off every 3 months or so to solve that issue.

i actually use an old seatpost for my breaker bar. the seat is still on it too. hasn't failed me yet.

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17 hours ago, AustinBike said:

And which direction you want to go. That can really make a mess of things if you pick the wrong direction. 

This is a good point.  You can also make a mess if you don't have an impact rated quality bit.  Lots of hex drivers out there don't fit very well, maybe a bit rounded, loose, etc.  

I have BBs and pedals down pat, even if they don't have the arrows marked.  I just recently bought my first impact driver after googling "impact driver vs drill" and watching a youtube video on it.  It made total sense and once I used one I wondered why I've waited until now to get one.  I've used big air impact wrenches (600 ft-lbs because sometimes even a 6ft cheater bar is not enough to remove Miata hub nuts), and I have an electric Craftsman impact wrench for automotive work.  I've used the Crafstman to remove a stuck BB shell on a steel bike as well as a stuck seatpost.

Edited by AntonioGG
Clarified Miata hub nuts, not bike hub nuts
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4 hours ago, Chief said:

Any fasteners that I think could be a problem down the road to remove get anti seize. Pedals for sure.

In my case it was a $100 craigslist Jamis Coda buy.  On my steel bike, I go a step further and take the seatpost out and regrease maybe 1x a year.

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