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Chief

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Ya, I’d show that to customer and how it happened. Then let him know it’s weakened because of it and may break, which could cause catastrophic failure. I would have something for customers to sign when/if they decline that states you recommended replacement and risks of not.

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14 hours ago, WLemke said:

Do y’all think this crank is still safe to use or should I tell this guy he is going to need a new crank? It doesn’t seem very deep but you can feel the groves when running a finger over it.

I'd ride it, but I'm aware of the strain I'm putting on the drivetrain and the risk I'm taking. Plus the failure mode is not the worst thing...

HOWEVER, in today's lawyer happy world, I would always recommend replacement for a paying customer's bike. 

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Two reminders - 

1. If your bikes share a garage with your kids, regularly check your shock settings. My bike felt like crap last week. Turns out some kid thought the rear shock damper was fun to turn and firmed the return up all the way.

2. When you pick up significant altitude over Austin, like say Colorado, re-sag your suspension. I had a long ride yesterday, including some ski resort downhill, and barely used 70% of my travel. Guess that altitude changed by fork and shock numbers.

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All right hive mind. Saturday I had a great SS ride on my FS SS - a Milkmoney 4.0. Started to take it out yesterday for a ride and had a horrible creak. Looks like one of the bearings on the rocker disintegrated. Inner race still stuck to the bolt and outer race stuck in the rocker.

On this rocker, the bearing pushes in and sits against a lip on the rocker so it doesn't push all the way through (well, like most rockers). It seems like the lip is purely for bearing retainage/keeping it aligned. Any thoughts on notching it? Purely last ditch. Plan to start with heat gun. Because of the lip, it will be tough to cut all the way through the race, but I can probably get close and start prying. Edge wear from riding bearing free is on the beefier side of the rocker, and is where I would notch. No part of the rocker normally would contact the frame. Hoping to avoid a $150 rocker set.

image.png.91288a911014216fbcaf762a0ec2f95b.pngimage.png.76b963eb37d9a626f75fef1d584ad2d2.png

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The rocker isn't flat, so it is pretty hard to clamp it down so I can then hammer on the race. I'm in Colorado this week, but next week when I am home I'll probably put a round grinder on it and just start grinding in on spot (not cutting). See if the combo of heat and thining a section of the race will get it out. I think as a worst case maybe the notch.

If it comes out I'll replace it and the bearing on the other side rocker. The rest of the bearings on the bike seem good. 

 

Glad I brought too bikes this trip.

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the last time I saw an outer race stuck inside a hub, the answer was to very carefully cut and notch in the bearing using a rotary tool with a tiny cut-off wheel, so it's a C-shape with a narrow opening, then pry it out. not easy and there's potential to damage it. but it might be the only choice.

the other way is to wedge something inside the race and knock it out. you need something with an expanding wedge. what's the ID of the race? could a headset compression wedge fit in there? shove a sacrificial star nut in? some sort of concrete anchor? if you can find a pipe that fits in there, cut some slots in the end, and thread a nut and bolt through it, you could make a custom expanding wedge.

there are various kinds of "blind bearing puller" tools that might do the trick.

Edited by mack_turtle
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3 minutes ago, mack_turtle said:

the last time I saw an outer race stuck inside a hub, the answer was to very carefully cut and notch in the bearing using a rotary tool with a tiny cut-off wheel, so it's a C-shape with a narrow opening, then pry it out. not easy and there's potential to damage it. but it might be the only choice.

This is how I have always done it as well. But when I think more about it, if the lip on the rocker isn't structural, it seems a notch would just be aesthetic anyway. Again, hoping I don't need it.

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4 hours ago, mack_turtle said:

the answer was to very carefully cut and notch in the bearing using a rotary tool with a tiny cut-off wheel, so it's a C-shape with a narrow opening, then pry it out. not easy and there's potential to damage it. but it might be the only choice.

X3, I've done this on stuck inner and outer races. The hard part is doing it slowly and controled, ideally you don't want to go too deep and  knick the surface of the rocker the bearing contacts. I like a dremmel because it's alot easier to ease in than a pneumatic die grinder. 

If you go the hammer method, use a large diameter socket to rest against the bottom face of the rocker, it will help have a good surface to pound against. Hard to explain, I can draw a picture if you want... 

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Need some handlebar advice.

Last night I converted my urban singlespeed over to a fully rigid geared MTB for an upcoming trip. Hadn't ridden fully rigid on the trails in close to 25 years.  Rode Walnut Creek last night, had to re-learn how to ride a bike and picking my lines became infinitely more important.

This morning I feel like the old man that I am, what a beating.

I started thinking about my handlebars. I have an aluminum bar on there now that gives me a nice sweep for my wrists. What are the pros and cons of swapping out to a flat-ish carbon bar?

IMG_0503.thumb.jpeg.4cfe571ba67b9763df5212b2df97b7f4.jpeg

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I have carbon bars on my SS and I really only notice the flex in a bad way when I'm standing and grinding.  The bike has a fork though.  It probably would improve comfort, but on a SS where you're really wrenching on the bars more often there is that downside.

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31 minutes ago, Kyle said:

I have carbon bars on my SS and I really only notice the flex in a bad way when I'm standing and grinding.  The bike has a fork though.  It probably would improve comfort, but on a SS where you're really wrenching on the bars more often there is that downside.

At this point it is geared for the trip, so less wrenching on the bars. I guess it is worth giving the bars a shot today to see if they are better.

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I had no idea how important sweep was until I tried to ride with little to no sweep.  My wrists and thumbs were killing me...and the whole reason for togs to exist suddenly made sense.  I took the bar on my new bike off and switched to my old bar, and at some point I'll switch to one with even more sweep once supply normalizes.

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7 hours ago, AustinBike said:

Need some handlebar advice.

Last night I converted my urban singlespeed over to a fully rigid geared MTB for an upcoming trip. Hadn't ridden fully rigid on the trails in close to 25 years.  Rode Walnut Creek last night, had to re-learn how to ride a bike and picking my lines became infinitely more important.

This morning I feel like the old man that I am, what a beating.

I started thinking about my handlebars. I have an aluminum bar on there now that gives me a nice sweep for my wrists. What are the pros and cons of swapping out to a flat-ish carbon bar?

IMG_0503.thumb.jpeg.4cfe571ba67b9763df5212b2df97b7f4.jpeg

depends on the aluminum bar and carbon bar you are comparing. some carbon is very stiff, and some is noodly.

 

you might not have time, but there are several handlebars on the market that have more sweep. SQ Labs comes to mind, and I have the 12° aluminum bar on my bike. I like it. had it on there for at least three years now.

the shape of the bar changes the way your bike fits and handles. less sweep= longer reach, most of the time.

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4 hours ago, AntonioGG said:

I had no idea how important sweep was until I tried to ride with little to no sweep.  My wrists and thumbs were killing me...and the whole reason for togs to exist suddenly made sense.  I took the bar on my new bike off and switched to my old bar, and at some point I'll switch to one with even more sweep once supply normalizes.

indeed, I don't see myself going to back to a "straight" bar. 12° is working for me now, but I use a 70mm stem to keep the reach from getting to "beach cruiser-ish." the handling is the same as a bar with less sweep and a short stem, but my wrists are happier. I am using TOGS with this bar as well. they're nice to have when I have the need to give my wrists a break.

Edited by mack_turtle
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1 hour ago, AustinBike said:

No time and not interested in expending any cash to change the trajectory. Leave next Tuesday and based on the fact that I need a bike that I don't mind getting stolen, new bars would not fit the bill.

I have some old Renthal carbon bars that have some rise and some sweep, albeit minimal (7 degrees maybe). They are cut down to 730mm though. You're welcome to have them. I did use them for a couple of years and of course can't guarantee the integrity. I do remember you saying you had a good dentist though!  

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