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1 hour ago, mack_turtle said:

Don't forget your BB cup tool! You never know when you'll need that. 

I have a Shimano BB wrench with different adapters (I think I'm up to 3 different sizes in my fleet) that I take for trips.

I have a Truvativ cup which I no longer need I think. 

I do take my freehub nut tool for sure and a big crescent wrench and socket for it, but not the torque wrench.

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10 hours ago, AntonioGG said:

I do take my freehub nut tool for sure and a big crescent wrench and socket for it, but not the torque wrench.

I brought these, along with a chain whip and my singlespeed cog/chain in case I got to the point where I was going to convert back to SS. But the gears have been fun on the gravel so I have left the bike with gears for now.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Super random tech but figured id post this just in case. I use orgin8 and Wheels pressfit BB conversions for my bottom brackets and figured out that I could pull the 2mm sleeve out of my non-drive side GXP bottom bracket. Voila, it's now 24mm and ready for shimano. Makes total sense from a manufacturing standpoint and gives my wallet a bit of a break.

BTW, these things are great alternative for fellow pressfit haters.

 

 

 

 

 

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Does anyone have any 24mm shimano compatible spindle spacers? I have an XTR stages crank arm that I occasionally want to move to one my bikes with an XT crankset. But the arm thickness, where it hits the spindle, is thinner on the XTR meaning I either have to re space the BB to make it work, or throw a spacer between the arm and BB. I can order some spacers that will work, but don't need a 10 pack.

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  • 2 weeks later...

So in my recent fork upgrade my brake cable is a little bit short. I've avoided touching hydraulics for no particular reason other than I have Shimanos and not Avids 😉 plus, I don't have any bleed tools. Yes, I probably should have flushed my brakes at some point but I've never felt their performance was anything but good so I haven't bothered. 

So my choices are: Pay a shop to extend the cable or buy the supplies and do it myself. 

What would you do and what supplies do you recommend I buy?

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16 minutes ago, RedRider3141 said:

What would you do and what supplies do you recommend I buy?

Do you plan to continue bicycle riding over the next several years? If so, DIY. The supplies are quite inexpensive. Sure, watch a couple of YouTube, but the Shimano instructions work PERFECTLY! 

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42 minutes ago, RedRider3141 said:

So in my recent fork upgrade my brake cable is a little bit short. I've avoided touching hydraulics for no particular reason other than I have Shimanos and not Avids 😉 plus, I don't have any bleed tools. Yes, I probably should have flushed my brakes at some point but I've never felt their performance was anything but good so I haven't bothered. 

So my choices are: Pay a shop to extend the cable or buy the supplies and do it myself. 

What would you do and what supplies do you recommend I buy?

I got the Shimano bleed kit and what seems like a lifetime supply of the Shimano mineral oil. Your welcome to borrow/use them. I think you'll of course need to buy a new hose kit. I think for $20-30 bucks on Amazon you can get one with all the fittings.

Also, you can buy specific tools for hose cutting and olive insert placement, but I use a dedicated set of wire cutters and vise grip hammer method without issue. Your welcome to borrow those also.

Edited by 4fun
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1 hour ago, 4fun said:

I got the Shimano bleed kit and what seems like a lifetime supply of the Shimano mineral oil. Your welcome to borrow/use them. I think you'll of course need to buy a new hose kit. I think for $20-30 bucks on Amazon you can get one with all the fittings.

Also, you can buy specific tools for hose cutting and olive insert placement, but I use a dedicated set of wire cutters and vise grip hammer method without issue. Your welcome to borrow those also.

Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on the bleed kit in a few weekends. 

I do have a standard brake/shift cable cutter, is this the same thing or is there a hydraulic specific cutter?

I have something similar:

https://www.amazon.com/Cyclingdeal-Bicycle-Professional-Cutter-CyclingDeal/dp/B00811VOFK/

 

 

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1 hour ago, RedRider3141 said:

Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on the bleed kit in a few weekends. 

I do have a standard brake/shift cable cutter, is this the same thing or is there a hydraulic specific cutter?

I have something similar:

https://www.amazon.com/Cyclingdeal-Bicycle-Professional-Cutter-CyclingDeal/dp/B00811VOFK/

 

 

That should work, I use a real sharp pair of cutters due to the sponginess of the hydraulic hose and so when I'm dealing with shorting SRAM cables I don't get dot fluid on my good bike specific cable cutters. 

Sounds good

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Bleeding is super easy once you get the basic idea down. SRAM is honestly the most finicky in its process, especially if you’re trimming hose and messing with their barb and olive.

There is no better hose cutter than this one as it uses a razor blade and is quick to use.
http:// Jagwire - Hydraulic Hose Cutter Bicycle Repair Tool |Easy, Clean Cutting, Steel Blades | Alloy or Plastic Body https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RLCB3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E8YT9H5MQ3BEY53JY8T1

I also use this for pressing in the barb.
http:// Jagwire Needle Driver, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RLJFZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NVC2CRR9ZDQ7645W9Y8K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Of course you can do everything without these tools, but they’re so nice to have.

I actually just did a gravity bleed/flush on my rear brake tonight after lubricating the piston seals.


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For me, it's not the routing or fishing it through. I have the park internal routing kit for that.

It's having to remove the pads, crack the system open, cut the line shorter, replace the olives, and bleed it all over again. Then you get to hope that it works as good as it did before you pulled it all apart. For asthetics.

Probably just a rant, but I'm in the process of building two bikes that have this demonic cable routing.

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I've never had a frame with internal routing, but I've worked on tons of them. depending on design, it seems like a PITA on some bikes. routing shift cables can be a hassle, but for brakes, how often do you expect to need to replace a hose? I've only had to do that once because I swapped frames and the new frame routed the hose under the down tube, instead of under the top tube, so I needed a longer hose. I don't see a need for internal routing, but I would not be opposed to it at this point.

Edited by mack_turtle
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I have internal routing on my Orbea and Antonio gave me some XTR brakes, the bike had XTs from the factory. For the front it was pretty straightforward, pull the old one, put the new one on, 10 minute easy fix. For the rear I left the hydraulic hose in place, and one at a time I replaced the caliper and the the lever, keeping the original hose in place. It took longer and I had to be more careful, the only downside was waiting until after the bike was back together and rideable before opening the beer. 

Internal routing just mean leaving the hose in place.

Edited by AustinBike
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As I grow older I am finding ways to enjoy cycling by doing more with less. I've sold off the big expensive bikes, and toned down my bike budget significantly simply to do so. 

I have recently given the single speed life a gander, and I just don't think it's for me. While the simplicity is awesome, I like to go faster at times and slower at other time. However, if I had 2 mountain bikes one would definitely be a single speed. 

Anyways, enter my Sunday morning project. 

Advent X installation on the salsa timberjack 27.5+ with the chain stays slammed to 420.F2EBCB75-E9FE-46DE-AE7F-E7C214F56E03.thumb.jpeg.c587d6fff9090852b0b1963f01749d89.jpeg

All parts installed include:

cassette, rear derailleur, shifter, shimano cable housing and a kmc x10 chain, for a grand total of $215. 

I'll report back after a few rides. 
 

 

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