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Hey guys, Snapped a spoke this afternoon at Brushy. Im am very certain it was due to rock impact after kicking one up hard and I see the impact on the spoke. 

So I wont repair this myself and my question is then do all the spoke need replaced? Or just the one.

This is the original wheel and is just under 4 yrs old. Not sure how to approach this the best way. 

I told my wife it meant a new ride but she didnt buy that 

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18 minutes ago, Cafeend said:

Hey guys, Snapped a spoke this afternoon at Brushy. Im am very certain it was due to rock impact after kicking one up hard and I see the impact on the spoke. 

So I wont repair this myself and my question is then do all the spoke need replaced? Or just the one.

This is the original wheel and is just under 4 yrs old. Not sure how to approach this the best way. 

I told my wife it meant a new ride but she didnt buy that 

Just a new spoke. Try to replace like for like if possible. For example, if you have spaim cx-rays, replace with another cx-ray. You’ll also need a new nipple. 
 

I have a park tool TS-2 stand and a TM-1 tension meter. Happy to let you bring the rim over and use them. It’s super easy to replace a spoke. 

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100% on like for like.  I had a wheel with different spokes and kept having trouble with them until I replaced all the spokes with the same kind (shape, gauge and butting).  This was a sapim race blade spoked wheel with  14ga straight replacement spokes so it was dramatic.

one thing I did was to use different color nipples on the new spokes.  That way I could keep track of spokes age if more started going.

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On 9/24/2021 at 8:32 PM, Cafeend said:

Hey guys, Snapped a spoke this afternoon at Brushy. Im am very certain it was due to rock impact after kicking one up hard and I see the impact on the spoke. 

So I wont repair this myself and my question is then do all the spoke need replaced? Or just the one.

This is the original wheel and is just under 4 yrs old. Not sure how to approach this the best way. 

I told my wife it meant a new ride but she didnt buy that 

For a couple of bucks, the Peddler will cut you a new spoke to the correct length. If you don't know the correct length, you can probably find out using any number of online spoke calculators. This is a decent one because if you are lucky enough to have a hub and rim that is on their list, you don't have to manually enter any measurements: https://spokecalculator.qbp.com/spokecalculator/

The other way to figure out the length is to just take both pieces of the broken spoke off the wheel and measure it yourself or take it to a shop and have them measure it.

Also, I've replaced numerous broken spokes without having to replace the nipple. If you are running tubeless and/or inserts, replacing the nipple can add a lot of work. If the nipple isn't damaged and you are using the same size spoke, there's really no reason to tear your tire off, deal with all the sealant, remove your rim tape, and so on. Just leave the nipple in place and thread it onto the new spoke.

Some people call it laziness. I call it efficiency.

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15 minutes ago, olddbrider said:

Also, I've replaced numerous broken spokes without having to replace the nipple. If you are running tubeless and/or inserts, replacing the nipple can add a lot of work. If the nipple isn't damaged and you are using the same size spoke, there's really no reason to tear your tire off, deal with all the sealant, remove your rim tape, and so on. Just leave the nipple in place and thread it onto the new spoke.

Some people call it laziness. I call it efficiency.

100% agree. 

I have replaced several spokes this way, never had an issue. The only challenge is that you are somewhat bending the spoke to get it into the nipple, but I have never had a failure based on that.

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I gather that ideally you should replace a broke spoke with one that has the same type of butting as the other spokes. so if the wheel is built with straight gauge (usually heavier and cheaper, and supposedly less compliant), you'd want to use another straight gauge spoke. if the wheel has double-butted spokes, try to find another DB spoke of the correct length.

if you have to mix spoke gauges, keep that in mind when you tension the spokes. the tension on the odd spoke might feel different on the tension of other spokes to have the same actual tension.

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4 hours ago, mack_turtle said:

I gather that ideally you should replace a broke spoke with one that has the same type of butting as the other spokes. so if the wheel is built with straight gauge (usually heavier and cheaper, and supposedly less compliant), you'd want to use another straight gauge spoke. if the wheel has double-butted spokes, try to find another DB spoke of the correct length.

if you have to mix spoke gauges, keep that in mind when you tension the spokes. the tension on the odd spoke might feel different on the tension of other spokes to have the same actual tension.

That's exactly what  meant when I said like for like.  My spokes were all over the place to keep the wheel true and I kept breaking spokes until I replaced them all with the right type.  Mine usually break with a hard side load...last few times has been at LGT.

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