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On 9/19/2021 at 12:05 PM, bestbike85 said:

As I grow older I am finding ways to enjoy cycling by doing more with less. I've sold off the big expensive bikes, and toned down my bike budget significantly simply to do so. 

I have recently given the single speed life a gander, and I just don't think it's for me. While the simplicity is awesome, I like to go faster at times and slower at other time. However, if I had 2 mountain bikes one would definitely be a single speed. 

Anyways, enter my Sunday morning project. 

Advent X installation on the salsa timberjack 27.5+ with the chain stays slammed to 420.F2EBCB75-E9FE-46DE-AE7F-E7C214F56E03.thumb.jpeg.c587d6fff9090852b0b1963f01749d89.jpeg

All parts installed include:

cassette, rear derailleur, shifter, shimano cable housing and a kmc x10 chain, for a grand total of $215. 

I'll report back after a few rides. 
 

 

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How goes the advent x?

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2 hours ago, rockshins said:

How goes the advent x?

Unfortunately I have only gotten 2 brief rides on it. Since I've completed the install I've been out of town back to back weekends, and my week day rides are almost all pre sunrise, so I stick to the drop bar bikes. 

I'm home this coming weekend, so I will get a good rip on it then revisit the thread. 

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On 10/4/2021 at 3:03 PM, rockshins said:

How goes the advent x?

After a couple more rides on it I feel I can speak to it now. 

I honestly don’t think I’ll ever need to upgrade further. In my recent experience I have had GX eagle, NX eagle, and XT 11 speed, and I honestly think the Advent shift equal or cleaner than all of them. 

Im not sensitive to shifter “quality”, I know which button to press when I need something to change and it does it. Could the shift be more “spongey”? Maybe but I can’t tell and I don’t have one of those groups now to test side by side with.

What really surprises me is how quiet it is when riding. That could have something to do with the new KMC chain too, but it doesn’t matter what gear I’m in, it’s silent. 

I personally prefer the 48 to an eagle 50 or 52. I always felt the 50 had really awkward cadence, and the 48 is less awkward when paired with the standard 32t chainring.

Overall I couldn’t recommend it enough. For $215 total including cable housing and chain this is an incredible bargain.  

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9 hours ago, bestbike85 said:

I personally prefer the 48 to an eagle 50 or 52. I always felt the 50 had really awkward cadence, and the 48 is less awkward when paired with the standard 32t chainring.

Yeah, I am not a fan of the 50 either. I have a 32 on the front and an Eagle with 50 on the back. I toy with the idea of throwing a 34 on the front because in the 50 I just spin too much and don't have enough leverage to make that gear useable for me.

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  • 3 weeks later...

After getting a flat at CP last Saturday I discovered a flaw in my torque strategy: rear through axle is bolt on and say 10nm on the bolt. Didn't happen to have a torque wrench with me.

Was thinking about getting one of these to throw in the pack:

https://www.prestacycle.com/product/prestacycle-torqkey-10nm-t-handle-torque-limiting-bits-tool/

Anyone else have a better idea? The problem is 10nm is a lot of force and probably easy to misjudge, in either direction.

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29 minutes ago, AustinBike said:

After getting a flat at CP last Saturday I discovered a flaw in my torque strategy: rear through axle is bolt on and say 10nm on the bolt. Didn't happen to have a torque wrench with me.

Was thinking about getting one of these to throw in the pack:

https://www.prestacycle.com/product/prestacycle-torqkey-10nm-t-handle-torque-limiting-bits-tool/

Anyone else have a better idea? The problem is 10nm is a lot of force and probably easy to misjudge, in either direction.

That should work. My question is, is it that important to have your rear axle precisely torqued in the unfortunate situation of replacing a flat? You're already running compromised with a tube. At home, you're going to remove the wheel to replace the tire and can reset the torque there. So, you're going to carry an single purpose tool for every mile of every trail ride just to have the exact torque for one bolt for a handful of miles after a flat? 

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I'm not sure this would hold up to scientific scrutiny: when I know I have torqued a bolt at home with a precision tool, and I need to loosen it and tighten it on during a ride, I count the number of turns I make on the wrench when backing it off. then I make my adjustment and tighten it again with that same number of turns. I had to snug down my headset the other day and I used this technique on my stem: loosen each of the two pinch bolts by one full turn, make adjustments, line it up with the wheel, then tighten each bolt by one full turn.

in theory, that works. do it enough times and you start to get a feel for what is tight-enough-but-not-too-tight on certain bolts. I would not rely on that all the time, but I feel safe doing this with my personal bike during a ride to allow me to finish it.

Edited by mack_turtle
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I thought about it because my shifting was for shit all day. Tried the barrel adjusters over and over. Could have been the sand. But after washing and properly torquing, it shifts great. I am guessing that because it was carbon I was probably being too conservative and undertorquing it so that it was too loose, impacting the shifting. The was what got me down the whole rat hole this afternoon.

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22 minutes ago, mack_turtle said:

I'm not sure this would hold up to scientific scrutiny: when I know I have torqued a bolt at home with a precision tool, and I need to loosen it and tighten it on during a ride, I count the number of turns I make on the wrench when backing it off. then I make my adjustment and tighten it again with that same number of turns. I had to snug down my headset the other day and I used this technique on my stem: loosen each of the two pinch bolts by one full turn, make adjustments, line it up with the wheel, then tighten each bolt by one full turn.

in theory, that works. do it enough times and you start to get a feel for what is tight-enough-but-not-too-tight on certain bolts. I would not rely on that all the time, but I feel safe doing this with my personal bike during a ride to allow me to finish it.

That is a pretty good idea. But on the axle it probably won't work out as well because you have to remove it.

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@AustinBikesince your bike has a concentric pivot around the rear axle, it’s more sensitive to the torque on the rear axle. My Ibis states a max torque setting, but specifically states to torque it to an amount that you could replicate with a multitool trail side. Since it’s effectively a linkage driven URT, the only real concern is stripping the bolt threads or crunching the carbon dropout which is harder to do by accident.

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Oh, sorry I completely misremembered what bike you have. The new Occam also has a split pivot I think, but not yours.

I really wouldn’t worry about the axle torque then. I’d make sure the axle shaft is greased, then thread it in and crank it down with the same multitool you take on your rides. That way you can snug it with enough force you can replicate without tightening so much that your hand hurts.  

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Super genius or dumb as fuck?

I like to ride ChamoisHagar on lots of the singletrack we have in the area, and I also like to protect my EIE ChiCarbon rims from various rock impacts. So I use inserts. I got about 4000 miles out of HuckNorris before I started having issues with them--front and rear. Unlike many inserts, HuckNorris isn't a contiguous circle of material, rather it's a single ribbon that you shove into the tire. They give you a cheesy little Velcro bit that you're supposed to use to tire them together. But that doesn't work at all, as one of the foam bits inevitably breaks reverting it back into a ribbon instead of a circle. So you just let it go and hope for the best. And that worked for a while, but then this ribbon starts bunching up on itself, and folding over in the tire. Well that's no good, since you have a very unbalanced rotational force that you can feel, and worse, you have sections of the rim wholly unprotected from the insert. 

So I'm on the look for another brand that works for this bike. But with 25.5mm IW rims, and 50mm tires, there are not many inserts that work for it. It falls between traditional gravel/CX and the typical small MTB versions. I keep looking. In the mean time, how to make HuckNorris work? I may have flossed out an idea!

image.thumb.png.b1ddf4b56d9e05f19fce84508264ae6a.png

 

Sew, yeah. I just roughly stitched the two ends together with floss. Only time will tell if it holds out, but it passes an aggressive tug test. And I suppose it's worth noting that I've never had this folding/doubling up issue with my 27.5x2.6 tires using the plus versions of HuckNorris. 

 

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1 hour ago, Barry said:

Super genius or dumb as fuck?

I like to ride ChamoisHagar on lots of the singletrack we have in the area, and I also like to protect my EIE ChiCarbon rims from various rock impacts. So I use inserts. I got about 4000 miles out of HuckNorris before I started having issues with them--front and rear. Unlike many inserts, HuckNorris isn't a contiguous circle of material, rather it's a single ribbon that you shove into the tire. They give you a cheesy little Velcro bit that you're supposed to use to tire them together. But that doesn't work at all, as one of the foam bits inevitably breaks reverting it back into a ribbon instead of a circle. So you just let it go and hope for the best. And that worked for a while, but then this ribbon starts bunching up on itself, and folding over in the tire. Well that's no good, since you have a very unbalanced rotational force that you can feel, and worse, you have sections of the rim wholly unprotected from the insert. 

So I'm on the look for another brand that works for this bike. But with 25.5mm IW rims, and 50mm tires, there are not many inserts that work for it. It falls between traditional gravel/CX and the typical small MTB versions. I keep looking. In the mean time, how to make HuckNorris work? I may have flossed out an idea!

image.thumb.png.b1ddf4b56d9e05f19fce84508264ae6a.png

 

Sew, yeah. I just roughly stitched the two ends together with floss. Only time will tell if it holds out, but it passes an aggressive tug test. And I suppose it's worth noting that I've never had this folding/doubling up issue with my 27.5x2.6 tires using the plus versions of HuckNorris. 

 

Are they too porous to super glue together?

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Barry, take a look at Tannus Tubeless Armor. They have a version for gravel tires, but they may only work up to 47 wide. I have the mountain bike version in my tires and they seem to work really well. Way easier to install than Cushcore, more protective than HuckNorris, and it’s one continuous loop. 

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8 hours ago, Teamsloan said:

Barry, take a look at Tannus Tubeless Armor. They have a version for gravel tires, but they may only work up to 47 wide. I have the mountain bike version in my tires and they seem to work really well. Way easier to install than Cushcore, more protective than HuckNorris, and it’s one continuous loop. 

Those look pretty interesting. I'll keep them in mind the next time I buy an insert.

 

Been running the Vittorias in my bikes and have been smashing rocks at speed (when possible) with no tire or insert failures. I did crack an ENVE rim but it was going on four years old. I think that's some some of record for longevity for ENVE.

My best explanation of how they felt after installation is like replacing your worn out OEM struts on your car with Koni. Just totally settled the bike down. Bet they'd be great on a gravel bike and the runflat feature is nice too.

I don't think they provide the absolute protection of cushcore but it's a happy medium.

 

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