Jump to content
IGNORED

Tech/Maintenance


Chief

Recommended Posts

On 5/30/2022 at 7:20 PM, AntonioGG said:

This is driving me mad.  I serviced the lowers on my fork and I can’t seem to put together the squid lock such that it unlocks out correctly.  This is a push to unlock system and it controls both shock and fork.  The shock has plenty of return strength but the fork does not.  I can pretension the spring and that has enough to close the valve when I release it, but as soon as I put the wire on, it just won’t close all the way back.  I’ve spent hours on this multiple days here and there.  I’ve used about 7 wires.   I’m glad I have saved the short wires from projects past.  I checked the original wire thickness and the replacements are no wider than the original.

anyone got any tips?

 

If it helps anyone, I ended up taking my bike to velorangutan, and it turns out you need a special tool to preload the return spring.  I can’t believe I spent so much time and that this wasn’t documented anywhere I could find.  I’m still waiting on my bike for them to get this tool and headset bearings.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/7/2022 at 8:09 AM, Taco Man said:

I use this for seating but I don't keep my compressor on and rigged up for everyday use/ general inflation.

 

It took me a few tries to get these to work... because my dumba$$ was screwing them all the way down which closed the presta valve and wouldnt allow inflation.  Once I backed it off some it works flawlessly.

Well the adaptor didnt work last night, tried for an hour.  Went and borrowed buddies park inflator and still cant get the damn tire to mount.   Air just leaks out wont bite.   Inflator is pushing ~50 psi its just a stream of air.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I've had issues getting a bead to seat I've removed the valve core to increase the air flow. Once the beads are seated you can deflate and resinstall the core.

Spraying soapy water around the bead is another trick that has had good results. I think it fills small gaps just enough to get things started. I'll hang the rim from a handlebar end so the fit is not biased by one side sitting on the floor.

When all that fails my next step is use the air compressor (similar hassle factor as you describe) that offers enough volume to slap the bead into submission.

Edited by Ridenfool
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Ridenfool said:

When I've had issues getting a bead to seat I've removed the valve core to increase the air flow. Once the beads are seated you can deflate and resinstall the core.

 

I like this option- the compressor can push much more air this way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Going to attempt a DIY stanchion repair on my pike. Had a pretty gnarly crash that ended up sending myself and the bike ricocheting off rocks down a hillside. Fork surprisingly was the only real damage. A new CSU is way overpriced right now, and finding a 40mm offset model is impossible. Tried to order a sendhit repair kit but the shipping to BFE Canada was insane. Ended up ordering some jewelers files, metal polish, sandpaper and epoxy from Amazon. We shall see 

Air B&B bike shop🤣

 

IMG_20220822_163205521.jpg

IMG_20220824_190035856.jpg

Edited by ATXZJ
  • Like 3
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Luckily I brought tools with me on this trip, but unluckily I did not bring cone wrenches. Tightened up my rear hub out in the yard at the hotel but was not going to tear it all the way down without a workbench and all the right tools. Also swapped tires, all of the street riding was chewing up my tread and on the trails today there was not a lot of grip.

Lesson for the future, always bring more tools than you need.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, Chief said:

What's a cone wrench?🤣

Funny you mention that. Was at the bike park and one of the guys I was riding with was complaining about shifting issues. After some inspection he discovered the cassette was loose. Pulled the wheel and it wasn't the cassette. Out came the cone wrenches LoL

Edited by ATXZJ
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Going into mountain mode, swapping out the stock link on the druid for a cascade one. It'll give me another 12mm of travel boosting it to 142. Also makes the platform a bit more progressive which should be really nice. Will probably stretch the fork to 150mm once i finish repairing the CSU. 

 

 

IMG_20220830_142957074.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
44 minutes ago, Ridenfool said:

Cleats? What are cleats? 🙄

Those look like you might get a couple thousand more miles out of them before they are completely toast.

Go ahead, push the envelope. Go where no man has gone before!

What are you, a dentist?

5 minutes ago, AntonioGG said:

I always carry new spare cleats on a trip, and I have a single used cleat and bolt in my osprey pack and saddle bags.

Sadly, Time cleats are side specific so you have to bring a pair. I noticed mine as I was packing my parts bin for the trip.

  • Like 1
  • Confused 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Good morning everyone.  I serviced my switch infinity link yesterday (bike purchased 3 months ago) and one of the stansions had some scratches where it connects to the bike (top left of the picture).  Do you guys think this will cause a problem?  I feel like it had to have occurred during the building of the bike as this is the first time I've taken it off.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.5ec6e68c74564a965dac88fcaf53ed83.jpeg

Switch Infinity2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Kobra Kai MTB Guy said:

Good morning everyone.  I serviced my switch infinity link yesterday (bike purchased 3 months ago) and one of the stansions had some scratches where it connects to the bike (top left of the picture).  Do you guys think this will cause a problem?  I feel like it had to have occurred during the building of the bike as this is the first time I've taken it off.

 

image.thumb.jpeg.5ec6e68c74564a965dac88fcaf53ed83.jpeg

Switch Infinity2.jpg

 

No issues on the stanchions so not an immediate concern. I'd contact yeti and get their thoughts on how this occurred and if it's a potential long term issue..

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...

when was the last time you calibrated your torque wrench(es)? If you're not using a torque wrench at all, you're either fooling yourself to think that your wrist is calibrated, or you're riding with parts that are going to slip loose eventually or are on the verge of stripping out. I just did mine! pretty easy stuff.

 

I did a few things a little different from the video above.

  • I weighed the item I was using as a weight for the test. In my case, it was a pair of 10-pound dumbbells in a cloth bag for the foot-pound tool and a single 10-pound dumbbell in a cloth bag for the inch-pound tool. however, they don't really weigh exactly 10 pounds according to my kitchen scale (assuming that is accurate as well!) so I based the calculation on the weight that I got from the scale.
  • when clamping the square end of the tool in the vice, the vice would twist a bit at full clamping force. to counteract that, I clamped the same size hex key in the other end of the vice. this is tricky with only two hands, but I get it to work.
Edited by mack_turtle
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...