AntonioGG Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 Someone's comment about the attached presta-->schrader adapter reminded me. It used to be that you had to purchase a replacement pump hose to make your own inflator attachment for a compressor. Well, not only does Park now has a $120 Presta inflator, but there is also a company making from a pure presta head for $17, to a full inflator with digital gauge for $80. Has anyone bought one of these? https://www.prestacycle.com/product/prestaflator-professional-multipurpose-bicycle-inflation-tool/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyle Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 I had a bad experience with one of those pistol grip style inflators. It restricted flow so much that it wasn't useful for seating tires, which is honestly the only reason I'd bother using a compressor on bike tires. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonioGG Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 34 minutes ago, Kyle said: I had a bad experience with one of those pistol grip style inflators. It restricted flow so much that it wasn't useful for seating tires, which is honestly the only reason I'd bother using a compressor on bike tires. That's a good point and that's also the only reason I use a compressor on my bikes. Right now I remove the core and use the rubber tip to seat the tires. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chuckt Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 I picked a Lezyne ABS2 chuck and adapted it to compressor fitting. It’s the high volume version so it flows pretty good. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted June 25, 2020 Share Posted June 25, 2020 I am a big fan of this: http://www.austinbike.com/index.php/repairs/109-repair-building-a-low-cost-presta-air-chuck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonioGG Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 When I was racing cars, I had my own tire machine, and to seat in the beads, I'd just take out the core, and just direct connect the quick connect fitting into the Shraeder valve to get maximum airflow. I also remember folks that have to do tractor and much bigger tires spray ether/starting fluid into the tire and light it up. I do have a Sherline lathe so maybe I'll just dig it out and make something that works for seating the beads on Presta valves. I still prefer my old Specialized pump for setting pressures. 1 hour ago, AustinBike said: I am a big fan of this: http://www.austinbike.com/index.php/repairs/109-repair-building-a-low-cost-presta-air-chuck OK this is where I remember reading about making your own. If I'd remembered where I read it, I'd have given you the credit. Does it work OK for seating in the beads? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 Works great on seating. Seating has way more to do with the amount of air you let in than anything else. This trigger opens it all the way, so with 100 pounds on a compressor I can seat the bead in seconds. Occasionally I have a challenging tire, but I have yet to find one that I cannot seat. The only real straggler was the Schwalbe Big Ben urban tires. I had to run those with tubes for about a month but then they hooked up right away. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazyt Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 20 hours ago, AntonioGG said: Someone's comment about the attached presta-->schrader adapter reminded me. It used to be that you had to purchase a replacement pump hose to make your own inflator attachment for a compressor. Well, not only does Park now has a $120 Presta inflator, but there is also a company making from a pure presta head for $17, to a full inflator with digital gauge for $80. Has anyone bought one of these? https://www.prestacycle.com/product/prestaflator-professional-multipurpose-bicycle-inflation-tool/ I have this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C3849GG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonioGG Posted June 26, 2020 Share Posted June 26, 2020 1 hour ago, crazyt said: I have this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C3849GG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Any issues seating beads with it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
throet Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 Had my Fox Factory 34 (130mm) Fork rebuilt by Fox within the last year and it seems to be acting up again. When taking big hits it makes this horrible clanking sound, similar to what it was doing before the rebuild. Is that an indication that it just needs servicing, or something worse? I've been riding that same fork hard since I first bought the bike 4 years ago. Is it worth rebuilding again? Can I convert it to 140mm from 130mm to get a little extra travel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 You can most likely convert it. Inside will be a set of spacers and you remove one of the 10mm spacers and that will take you up to 140mm. If you are getting it serviced they can typically do this at the same time with no charge. Just know that when you do this it will change your geometry a bit. Not the end of the world, but the handling does change. If you are comfortable taking your fork apart you can do this yourself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mack_turtle Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 20 minutes ago, throet said: When taking big hits it makes this horrible clanking sound, similar to what it was doing before the rebuild. Does the sound occur upon compression or on the rebound? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
throet Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 (edited) 29 minutes ago, mack_turtle said: Does the sound occur upon compression or on the rebound? Compression. If I ride slowly on the sidewalk and just lift and drop the front end numerous times, it makes the sound sometimes but not every time. Edited July 4, 2020 by throet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
throet Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 36 minutes ago, AustinBike said: Inside will be a set of spacers and you remove one of the 10mm spacers and that will take you up to 140mm. I assume you are referring to something other than the volume spacers, which I don't believe actually change the travel. I had read somewhere that changing the travel requires swapping out the air shaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 Check your fork model specifically, you may be right. I know on my Pike I needed a new air shaft, I thought on the Fox it was spacers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chief Posted July 4, 2020 Author Share Posted July 4, 2020 I don't know what fox volume reducers look like or how they're installed but I do know that on RS forks the volume spacers can come loose and make a knocking sound because they're floating around in the fork leg. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4fun Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 3 hours ago, AustinBike said: Check your fork model specifically, you may be right. I know on my Pike I needed a new air shaft, I thought on the Fox it was spacers. If it’s a 2016 fox 34, it is definitely an air shaft. Mack turtle might have an extra 140mm air shaft If he hasn’t sold or gave it away yet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
throet Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 5 hours ago, 4fun said: If it’s a 2016 fox 34, it is definitely an air shaft. Mack turtle might have an extra 140mm air shaft If he hasn’t sold or gave it away yet. It's a 2017. I'm thinking it's the same process. That fork has been back to Fox twice already and I'm starting to wonder if there is a useful life that I'm bumping up against. Wondering if I should consider just getting a new 2021 with the Grip2 vs. Fit4 damper. Any opinions on that? Also is Rake the same as Offset? I'm seeing that the 2021 Fox comes in both 44 and 51 Rake. @mack_turtle sounds like you've played around with this stuff before. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teamsloan Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Rake and offset are pretty much the same. With rigid forks, rake is the more accurate term. Where as on suspension forks, offset is a characteristic of the crown. …and I don’t see any reason why a 2017 fork would be outside it’s normal life expectancy. If you do get a new one, check with the frame manufacturer to see what offset is recommended. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATXZJ Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 (edited) 2 hours ago, throet said: It's a 2017. I'm thinking it's the same process. That fork has been back to Fox twice already and I'm starting to wonder if there is a useful life that I'm bumping up against. Wondering if I should consider just getting a new 2021 with the Grip2 vs. Fit4 damper. Any opinions on that? Also is Rake the same as Offset? I'm seeing that the 2021 Fox comes in both 44 and 51 Rake. @mack_turtle sounds like you've played around with this stuff before. Never been a fox guy so tough to advise. Hear the new grip2 dampers are pretty freaking sweet and I like the addition of bleeders for the lower legs. I can comment of offset a bit as I've run multiple offset forks on my bikes and have come to like the shorter stuff. My XC rig has a 40mm offset and the park bike has a 37. Which bike are you working on again? Edited July 5, 2020 by ATXZJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonioGG Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 My wife is still using my 2010 Talas after Fox did a complete rebuild (new uppers plus everything else) It works great, like new basically. I'd call or e-mail Fox to ask them about it. They've been really good about getting back to me. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
throet Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 10 hours ago, ATXZJ said: Which bike are you working on again? 2017 Intense Primer. Currently has 130mm fork with 51 offset. There is nothing about the bike's handling that I don't like but I do occasionally bottom out the fork on big hits. Not sure if that could be causing any damage or whether swapping out the air spring for a 140mm would help. If I end up sending it back to Fox for service again, I'll probably end up having them make that change. Last time I sent it back it was making a similar noise. The bike shop claimed that there was movement between the stanchion and the lower on one side but I have no clue what they did to fix that. Based on @AntonioGG's comment, sounds like uppers can be replaced but no clue how you would know when that is needed. Definitely prefer to salvage what I have given the cost of a new fork. 21 hours ago, Chief said: I don't know what fox volume reducers look like or how they're installed but I do know that on RS forks the volume spacers can come loose and make a knocking sound because they're floating around in the fork leg. That should be easy to check. I've got 2 of them in there right now - 3 is the max. I need to get the chamferless sockets for the top caps though as I've been mangling them with a crescent wrench. Seems the caps are different sizes on the damper and air sides. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 13 minutes ago, throet said: 2017 Intense Primer. Currently has 130mm fork with 51 offset. There is nothing about the bike's handling that I don't like but I do occasionally bottom out the fork on big hits. Not sure if that could be causing any damage or whether swapping out the air spring for a 140mm would help. If I end up sending it back to Fox for service again, I'll probably end up having them make that change. Last time I sent it back it was making a similar noise. The bike shop claimed that there was movement between the stanchion and the lower on one side but I have no clue what they did to fix that. Based on @AntonioGG's comment, sounds like uppers can be replaced but no clue how you would know when that is needed. Definitely prefer to salvage what I have given the cost of a new fork. That should be easy to check. I've got 2 of them in there right now - 3 is the max. I need to get the chamferless sockets for the top caps though as I've been mangling them with a crescent wrench. Seems the caps are different sizes on the damper and air sides. Let me measure my Pikes today, I have 2 of them, a 100mm and a 110mm. I know the 110 has a 51mm offset. If either of those has a 140mm travel you'd be welcome to borrow it; swapping out a fork is more straightforward than trying to change the travel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATXZJ Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 3 hours ago, throet said: 2017 Intense Primer. Currently has 130mm fork with 51 offset. There is nothing about the bike's handling that I don't like but I do occasionally bottom out the fork on big hits. Not sure if that could be causing any damage or whether swapping out the air spring for a 140mm would help. If I end up sending it back to Fox for service again, I'll probably end up having them make that change. Last time I sent it back it was making a similar noise. The bike shop claimed that there was movement between the stanchion and the lower on one side but I have no clue what they did to fix that. Based on @AntonioGG's comment, sounds like uppers can be replaced but no clue how you would know when that is needed. Definitely prefer to salvage what I have given the cost of a new fork. That should be easy to check. I've got 2 of them in there right now - 3 is the max. I need to get the chamferless sockets for the top caps though as I've been mangling them with a crescent wrench. Seems the caps are different sizes on the damper and air sides. Yeah, sounds like it's working for you so I wouldn't change fork/offset unless you have to. If the shop said there's play between stanchion and lower then that's usually a worn bushing in the leg. If you remove and disassemble the fork you can inspect for whatever obvious damage with the exception of the damper. Worn bushings will usually mar the stanchions so that should be easy to spot on the bike. Maybe have @Chief take a look at it (?) I'm Around 195lbs kitted and I've beat the shit out of my pike 120mm for over 4 years. IMHO, as long as you have enough PSI/tokens, the travel probably isn't your main issue. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Ok, @throet, I have 2 Pikes, both are 51mm offsets. Both were originally 130mm, but *appear* to be 140mm now: One is a 110mm axle and the other has a 100mm axle. If you want to borrow one to try it on your bike, just let me know. Before you do, measure yours and see how it stacks up relative to the picture above. Both have the stanchion markings that lead me to believe it is 140mm as well. PM me if interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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