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2 minutes ago, Cafeend said:

I've always been confused with the carbon paste. I read it isnt needed but also it is

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Carbon paste isn’t technically needed in many applications but it certainly is great for when you you have a component that is very sensitive to being over-torqued. The grit in the paste really helps keep the component from moving with minimal torque necessary. 

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17 minutes ago, WLemke said:

Carbon paste isn’t technically needed in many applications but it certainly is great for when you you have a component that is very sensitive to being over-torqued. The grit in the paste really helps keep the component from moving with minimal torque necessary. 

Yes, this.  At least in the past there were some carbon bars that had a max torque spec of 3.5Nm, while a lot of clamps had a 5Nm spec.  With carbon paste 3.5Nm kept the clamps from moving around.

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On 7/27/2020 at 8:42 AM, mack_turtle said:

I gotta say, people are absolutely obsessed with HTA as if one degree or another makes a bike unrideable and they need to chill out. there's so much more to it than that. meanwhile, I don't even know what my HTA is, something around 68°? it's not stopping me from having fun riding gnarly stuff for long miles.

thats because 68 is the perfect HTA..

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17 hours ago, The Tip said:

My wife uses something like this. If I wasn't worried about my peers doubting my manhood I would use one too. I carry my phone in my hydration back pack. It's a pain in the ass to get out and I wish it was just right in front of me like hers is. It looks big and unwieldy but it never impedes anything she does.

I would worry about my ability to leapfrog the bars when going over the front. Not saying I do that a lot but the 2 times I have (clipless even) I was impressed by my own agility and it saved me from certain doom. I wouldn't want to catch a foot on my bikes fanny pack and eat shit.

I'm not just here to humblebrag about my OTB ninja skills though. I agree with wanting quick access to the phone. I've been thinking about how I can create some kind of pouch/pocket to add to a hydration pack shoulder strap. Something just big enough to slip the phone in and maybe even have a camera hole for some super shaky video. I was thinking mesh material with a little drawstring or elastic closure. I keep meaning to prototype something up but I have a day job and I don't have the right materials 😞

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3 minutes ago, taco_junkie said:

I would worry about my ability to leapfrog the bars when going over the front. Not saying I do that a lot but the 2 times I have (clipless even) I was impressed by my own agility and it saved me from certain doom. I wouldn't want to catch a foot on my bikes fanny pack and eat shit.

I'm not just here to humblebrag about my OTB ninja skills though. I agree with wanting quick access to the phone. I've been thinking about how I can create some kind of pouch/pocket to add to a hydration pack shoulder strap. Something just big enough to slip the phone in and maybe even have a camera hole for some super shaky video. I was thinking mesh material with a little drawstring or elastic closure. I keep meaning to prototype something up but I have a day job and I don't have the right materials 😞

I wanted a phone pocket to attach to my hydration pack like that for years. For a while, I had a CamelBak that had some really nice hip pockets that I liked a lot. Currently, I switched to a fanny pack style hydration pack. It's not super easy to swing it around and access my phone compared to a handlebar bag or something on the frame, but way easier than a backpack style. Plus, I love not having anything on my shoulders. 

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2 hours ago, Cafeend said:

I've always been confused with the carbon paste. I read it isnt needed but also it is

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

Carbon paste gives more grip at lower torque specs. Less torque less broken carbon parts.

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1 hour ago, notyal said:

I wanted a phone pocket to attach to my hydration pack like that for years. For a while, I had a CamelBak that had some really nice hip pockets that I liked a lot. Currently, I switched to a fanny pack style hydration pack. It's not super easy to swing it around and access my phone compared to a handlebar bag or something on the frame, but way easier than a backpack style. Plus, I love not having anything on my shoulders. 

It used to be a lot easier when phones were smaller...

On the streets I use my jersey pocket but I don't think I would trust that on the trails.

My wife used one of these when she was running:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=flip+belt&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvIT5BRCqARIsAAwwD-RXZt5jPzCGo-oq3r8rVyAae3nOW8XaC55A1ruQywiMG89zKSbbjFUaAo3DEALw_wcB&hvadid=241631865987&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9028278&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=15751124631630467794&hvtargid=kwd-2670021921&hydadcr=26614_9892224&tag=googhydr-20&ref=pd_sl_30nig2t8rn_e

I use it now when I am on the SS at Walnut and don't have a pack. The only downside is that when it rings, you still have to dig to get it. But at least I don't have to take off a pack.

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1 hour ago, taco_junkie said:

I agree with wanting quick access to the phone. I've been thinking about how I can create some kind of pouch/pocket to add to a hydration pack shoulder strap.😞

https://www.timbuk2.com/products/805-3-way-accessory-case

I have one of these but I just use it to protect my phone on my shorts pocket now or jersey pocket. it's so bulky that i don't worry about it bouncing out of my jersey pocket, but my bare phone would bounce out. I cut the straps off the back to make it more svelte. I originally bought it to strap to a bag while bike commuting but then I realized how rare are moments when I need to suddenly grab my phone. I'm not a messenger, who am I fooling?
cell phone POV footage of a bike ride with the phone strapped to a backpack is guaranteed to be unwatchable, though.

Edited by mack_turtle
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After being told there's an 8 1/2 week wait on repairs at Peddler's (good for them, but it's a little upsetting given the loyalty I've had to them), I finally decided to start doing repairs myself.  I'm relatively handy when it comes to working with wood and around the house, but a novice as it relates to mechanical issues.  I came up with the below list of tools that I'll need.  I'm planning to do basically every repair if I'm going to drop this kind of investment in tools.  Can you guys take a look and let me know if/what I'm missing?  If there's anything here you don't think is necessary, I'd be happy to know that too.

 

Wheel truing stand

Bike stand

Chain whip

Grease

Carbon paste

Digital caliper

Brake bleed kit

Lockring remover

Screw drivers, allen keys, wrenches etc (already have)

 

Edited by Kobra Kai MTB Guy
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20 hours ago, The Tip said:

My wife uses something like this. If I wasn't worried about my peers doubting my manhood I would use one too. I carry my phone in my hydration back pack. It's a pain in the ass to get out and I wish it was just right in front of me like hers is. It looks big and unwieldy but it never impedes anything she does.

61bpyFXFJbL._AC_UL160_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/OBOVA-Handlebar-Waterproof-Accessory-Cruisers/dp/B07WTBL6PX

I definitely need a bag for the front of the bar, but I want something smaller. I don’t use a hydration pack, have a saddle bag for tire repair and looking for something to carry a few more items/tools. I wear a road jersey and use the pockets for those items now, but the extra weight in the pockets reduces wicking and the jersey tends to stick to my back. 

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1/4" Torque wrench

I've never used calipers on a bike.

Edit:  I take it back, I've used calipers to set the IFP depth in my somewhat ill fated attempts at servicing a rear shock.  

Edited by Kyle
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16 minutes ago, Kobra Kai MTB Guy said:

Can you guys take a look and let me know if/what I'm missing? 

torque wrench, 1/4" drive Pittsburg one from Harbor Freight works just fine. some 1/4" metric hex drivers and a T25 is mostly all you need. print out a torque conversion chart because it is usually easier to read and set the tool in inch-pounds, but bike parts are often labeled in Newton meters.

1/4" drive ratchet to quickly thread in and loosen bolts on the bike. much easier to handle than L-wrenches IMO

I have a 3/8" torque wrench too for bigger stuff, but the only place I tend to use it is my crank bolt.

take some old spokes and grind them into a few different shaped hooks and pokers. you'll use these more than you can imagine!

hacksaw and a cutting guide. de-burring tool and a file.

tiny metric ruler. mine  is stainless steel and says "Empire" on it, <$10 at Home Depot

I bought a basic brass caliper for measuring diameters of stuff. a digital one can be very accurate but I rarely need something that accurate.

tiny bottle of Loctite 242. I found that Harbor Freight, once again, carries a suitable generic version for a fraction of the price.

GOOD wire cutters. a rotary tool (Dremel) with a cut-off wheel is also good for this.

strap wrench for pulling apart rear shocks and dropper posts.

graduated cylinders for measuring oil volume to put in forks.

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21 minutes ago, Kobra Kai MTB Guy said:

After being told there's an 8 1/2 week wait on repairs at Peddler's (good for them, but it's a little upsetting given the loyalty I've had to them), I finally decided to start doing repairs myself.  I'm relatively handy when it comes to working with wood and around the house, but a novice as it relates to mechanical issues.  I came up with the below list of tools that I'll need.  I'm planning to do basically every repair if I'm going to drop this kind of investment in tools.  Can you guys take a look and let me know if/what I'm missing?  If there's anything here you don't think is necessary, I'd be happy to know that too.

 

Wheel truing stand

Bike stand

Chain whip

Grease

Carbon paste

Digital caliper

Brake bleed kit

Lockring remover

Screw drivers, allen keys, wrenches etc (already have)

 

Diagonal cutters (for snipping zip ties and crimping cable ferrules)

Cable/housing clippers (perfect example of "the right tool for the job"; yes, you could cut these things with diagonal cutters but it works so much better with this...)

Triflow (or some other lightweight oil for things that need to be lubricated but not greased)

Spoke wrench

Pedal wrench

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5 hours ago, Kobra Kai MTB Guy said:

After being told there's an 8 1/2 week wait on repairs at Peddler's (good for them, but it's a little upsetting given the loyalty I've had to them), I finally decided to start doing repairs myself.  I'm relatively handy when it comes to working with wood and around the house, but a novice as it relates to mechanical issues.  I came up with the below list of tools that I'll need.  I'm planning to do basically every repair if I'm going to drop this kind of investment in tools.  Can you guys take a look and let me know if/what I'm missing?  If there's anything here you don't think is necessary, I'd be happy to know that too.

 

Wheel truing stand

Bike stand

Chain whip

Grease

Carbon paste

Digital caliper

Brake bleed kit

Lockring remover

Screw drivers, allen keys, wrenches etc (already have)

 

On top of what everyone else has added, I'd toss in a threaded bottom bracket tool. 

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My T Handle hex set are invaluable to me. I second the torque wrench. Chain whip.
A good stand because crappy ones are no fun. Figure out what you need to pull apart your BB and get that specific tool since there are different kinds.
Once you get rolling you will know what you actually need and not need.


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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6 hours ago, Kobra Kai MTB Guy said:

After being told there's an 8 1/2 week wait on repairs at Peddler's (good for them, but it's a little upsetting given the loyalty I've had to them), I finally decided to start doing repairs myself.  I'm relatively handy when it comes to working with wood and around the house, but a novice as it relates to mechanical issues.  I came up with the below list of tools that I'll need.  I'm planning to do basically every repair if I'm going to drop this kind of investment in tools.  Can you guys take a look and let me know if/what I'm missing?  If there's anything here you don't think is necessary, I'd be happy to know that too.

 

Wheel truing stand

Bike stand

Chain whip

Grease

Carbon paste

Digital caliper

Brake bleed kit

Lockring remover

Screw drivers, allen keys, wrenches etc (already have)

 

If there is anything you don’t feel comfortable handling, I run a bike repair business on the side and will happily give you a “Austin Mountain Biking Forum” discount. Typical turn around time is 24 hours once you drop off the bike. 

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2 hours ago, 4fun said:

On top of what everyone else has added, I'd toss in a threaded bottom bracket tool. 

You're gonna need a couple of these, plus cup presses for the press fit versions.  You should probably just get a 3D printer while you're out.

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7 hours ago, Sluggo said:

I definitely need a bag for the front of the bar, but I want something smaller. I don’t use a hydration pack, have a saddle bag for tire repair and looking for something to carry a few more items/tools. I wear a road jersey and use the pockets for those items now, but the extra weight in the pockets reduces wicking and the jersey tends to stick to my back. 

Why don't you get the SWAT box that fits on your Epic frame? They are kind of pricey (I've seen used ones on eBay), but it keeps everything low and out of the way. I love the SWAT stuff.

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7 hours ago, Kobra Kai MTB Guy said:

Can you guys take a look and let me know if/what I'm missing?

Wheel truing stand - Eh...those are nice, but I've built a wheel with the hub in the dropouts and zip-ties for truing guides. I RARELY need to true wheels, if I do I usually just do it on the bike.

Bike stand - $$ but TOTALLY WORTH IT

Chain whip

Grease - there's grease for lubricating things that are supposed to move, and then there's assembly paste...get both.

Carbon paste - the carbon safe version of assembly paste

Digital caliper - yes, maybe overkill as you could use a metal metric ruler but I use my digital calipers FREQUENTLY.

Brake bleed kit - The Park Tool kit is nice but expensive. The cheap ones on amazon are cheap and the syringes are good but the bleed port fittings are crap and DO NOT include the current SRAM fittings.

Lockring remover

Screw drivers, allen keys, wrenches etc (already have)

 

Get this torque wrench. The HF one is good too for the price, but doing the conversion to in-lbs is kind of a pain. I use Siri to convert it for me though 🙂

I love my T-handle hex set from HF.

My 3/8" torque wrench (HF) is for my crank bolt, bb cups, and fork top caps.

The sharpened spoke is great, but my pick tool kit from HF has served me well.

If you end up cutting carbon (handlebars, maybe road fork steerer tube?) use the correct hacksaw blade. I use this for a de-burring tool for steerer tubes and various files.

Side cutting fingernail clippers or cuticle nippers like this are perfect for trimming things like the ends of zip-ties, or the corners off the shoulder blocks on your son's rear tire so that he can fit 2.4's...sorry that may be an extreme case 😛

 

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17 hours ago, mack_turtle said:

https://www.timbuk2.com/products/805-3-way-accessory-case

I have one of these but I just use it to protect my phone on my shorts pocket now or jersey pocket. it's so bulky that i don't worry about it bouncing out of my jersey pocket, but my bare phone would bounce out. I cut the straps off the back to make it more svelte. I originally bought it to strap to a bag while bike commuting but then I realized how rare are moments when I need to suddenly grab my phone. I'm not a messenger, who am I fooling?
cell phone POV footage of a bike ride with the phone strapped to a backpack is guaranteed to be unwatchable, though.

This looks like a good solution for the pack straps. I have a Timbuk2 laptop messenger bag and it is awesome. Completely overpriced for what I needed but priced appropriately for what you get. There are a few times in life where overpaying is really worth it, and when it comes to a laptop bag that has been to more countries than most people in their lives, yeah, spend the money. When you are dragging an expensive laptop around the world it makes sense to ensure it gets there in one piece.

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