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8/9-speed chain on a 10-speed ring


AustinBike
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Now that I have my singlespeed rear wheel sorted out I am thinking about replacing the crankset. Currently the bike has an FSA Comet crankset and I find that over time the crank arms tend to loosen up, at one point I even had one fall off mid-ride because I was not paying attention (urban, not trails, but concrete still hurts.)

I need a 36T for the front and all of my rings are BCD 104 and those are getting hard to find these days. I like the Shimano cranks because they use side bolts to hold the arm in place instead of a single front-end bolt. 

I have tried blue locktite and that works for a while, but I am guessing that my crank arm is just worn out after 10,000+ miles. 

The Shimano ZEE FC-M640 looks like exactly what I need (36T, $99, 68/73BB), but it says for 10-speed chains only. I could put a 10-speed chain on, but the 8 and 9-speed chains are more durable. If I remember correctly, the chain pitch (distance between pins) is the same, but is there a particular reason that I should only use a 10-speed chain?

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The Zee crankset is burly, heavy, and not expensive. Are the SLX 675 series still floating around? Those would probably be lighter at least.

 

I really wanted to stick with 104 rings but recently got a RF Aeffect set that uses cinch direct-mount chainrings. No regrets.

Edited by mack_turtle
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1 hour ago, mack_turtle said:

The Zee crankset is burly, heavy, and not expensive. Are the SLX 675 series still floating around? Those would probably be lighter at least.

 

I really wanted to stick with 104 rings but recently got a RF Aeffect set that uses cinch direct-mount chainrings. No regrets.

Yeah, you can still find the SLX 675's, but the Zee comes with the ring and a BB for $99. The 675's are about $95 with no BB and (apparently) no ring. So the extra weight of the Zee gives me an extra BB and a new ring - for less money.

It's primarily a cost thing because this is my commuter/bar bike. Primarily ridden on the streets and on the hike and bike trail. If I were worried about climbing over technical features I'd be a little more concerned about component weight.

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Just now, notyal said:

I would think that the wider chain would make the N/W teeth less effective, but your SS tensioner should take care of any concerns about dropping the chain.

Sliding dropouts, no tensioner needed.

8-speed is not recommended for N/W but I know for a fact that it works because I had to run that as I was going through the whole debug on the creak. Normally use a 9-speed and that works on N/W chains.

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