AustinBike Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 My FS bike has the standard Shimano pads, the brakes are XT. My SS has XTR and it has the more expensive pads with the “cooling fins” on them. Here’s the simple question: are the “finned” pads appreciably better? I’d gladly shell out a little more for better stopping (bike is fine, but the SS always feels better.) The XT will take either pads. Theoretically the fins should provide better cooling, right? But will I even know if I am not a DH racer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sluggo Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 Yes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATXZJ Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 In flatlandia? No Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teamsloan Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 Incremental gains around here. You need more elevation change. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted December 12, 2020 Author Share Posted December 12, 2020 Good, I'll stick with what I have and maybe swap out in the future if I am feeling like a splurge but won't expect much out of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATXZJ Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 For a SS or cross bike I wouldn't be too concerned about maximum braking power. Seems like a basic metallic pad does the trick. IMHO, rotor diameter is more important than fins. I ran these on my bikes that didn't see any gravity (basically everything in texas except spider and bandera r.i.p). https://www.discobrakes.com/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonioGG Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 Pad wear is affected by temperature. It'd be interesting to find out what kind of temps we get around here for different areas. Personally I think I get hotter temps when road riding than when MTBing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted December 12, 2020 Author Share Posted December 12, 2020 The SS is the one with the XTR. The FS is the one with XT. But with the way I ride, that is probably fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted December 12, 2020 Author Share Posted December 12, 2020 The other concern is that it looks like my rotor might be a bit undersized: I think the shitty braking was probably the tops of the pads hitting each other. There are no spacers on the calipers, they are right on the frame, so this feels real weird. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockshins Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 I have tried both finned and regular pads and cannot tell a difference as far as power and heat. I agree with ATXJ, more power will come from larger rotors than finned pads. I have cooked a few rotors in my time, but it was in the mountains on 2 piston brakes with 160mm rotors. At my weight the best results for heat dissipation and power have come from 203mm rotors and 4 piston brakes. Used Trucker Co brake pads and felt just as good as Shimano pads for way cheaper. The disco pads look like another good buy. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATXZJ Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 6 hours ago, AustinBike said: The other concern is that it looks like my rotor might be a bit undersized: I think the shitty braking was probably the tops of the pads hitting each other. There are no spacers on the calipers, they are right on the frame, so this feels real weird. Was running into that a bit on my friends sentinel build. Was running XTR brakes with TRP rotors and shimano adaptors. Your caliper is too high or rotor is small. As I recall there's a 3mm difference between some sram & shimano. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted December 12, 2020 Author Share Posted December 12, 2020 It is a factory-configured bike. XT calipers, XT rotors, no spacers, probably worth a question to the manufacturer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATXZJ Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 (edited) 19 minutes ago, AustinBike said: It is a factory-configured bike. XT calipers, XT rotors, no spacers, probably worth a question to the manufacturer. 160s F&R? Odd. I've seen the rear sit low as the caliper mount on the frame was machined down too far during production. Edited December 12, 2020 by ATXZJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sluggo Posted December 12, 2020 Share Posted December 12, 2020 Wheel dish? Shave the tops for more miles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted December 13, 2020 Author Share Posted December 13, 2020 12 hours ago, ATXZJ said: 160s F&R? Odd. I've seen the rear sit low as the caliper mount on the frame was machined down too far during production. 180F, 160R, this one is the R. Checked Strava and I have ~1000 miles on it, which, based on my averages, means ~66 rides on the brakes. Definitely should be lasting longer than that. Factory Shimano, came on the bike. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATXZJ Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 (edited) 4 hours ago, AustinBike said: 180F, 160R, this one is the R. Checked Strava and I have ~1000 miles on it, which, based on my averages, means ~66 rides on the brakes. Definitely should be lasting longer than that. Factory Shimano, came on the bike. Strange for sure. That lip at a minimum should be causing some brake noise. Since you have no adapter, it's most likely caused by brake mounting boss that isn't the correct height for your rotor, or a rotor that's too small in OD. Rotor theory is an easy one to solve. Frame, notsomuch. I had to place some small flat washers between the caliper and adapter bracket on the rear of my LT bike as the caliper sat low. Edited December 13, 2020 by ATXZJ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AntonioGG Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 5 hours ago, AustinBike said: 180F, 160R, this one is the R. Checked Strava and I have ~1000 miles on it, which, based on my averages, means ~66 rides on the brakes. Definitely should be lasting longer than that. Factory Shimano, came on the bike. My 2019 road bike (RIP) had some pads that wore really fast. It turns out Shimano had a problem with that compound. They’ve obsoleted that compound and released a new one. Maybe yours are the same? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider3141 Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 In Texas finned pads are like stickers, they are worth at least 50W. I agree that the calipers seem to be sitting low, you might getaway with a washer under each mounting lug/boss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheX Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 1 hour ago, RedRider3141 said: In Texas finned pads are like stickers, they are worth at least 50W. I agree that the calipers seem to be sitting low, you might getaway with a washer under each mounting lug/boss. Caliper is too high, the rotor is sitting too low in relation to it. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted December 13, 2020 Author Share Posted December 13, 2020 1 hour ago, RedRider3141 said: In Texas finned pads are like stickers, they are worth at least 50W. I agree that the calipers seem to be sitting low, you might getaway with a washer under each mounting lug/boss. Calipers are literally on the frame. I cannot adjust them lower at this point. A washer would make it worse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted December 13, 2020 Author Share Posted December 13, 2020 2 hours ago, AntonioGG said: My 2019 road bike (RIP) had some pads that wore really fast. It turns out Shimano had a problem with that compound. They’ve obsoleted that compound and released a new one. Maybe yours are the same? These were resin, replacing with metallic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Teamsloan Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 Calipers are literally on the frame. I cannot adjust them lower at this point. A washer would make it worse.Guess it’s time to ditch them for some Hopes. [emoji13]I think you’ll like the sintered pads more. The caliper is definitely too high, but other than taking them to a shop to machine down the mounts there’s not much you can do.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AustinBike Posted December 13, 2020 Author Share Posted December 13, 2020 28 minutes ago, Teamsloan said: Guess it’s time to ditch them for some Hopes. I think you’ll like the sintered pads more. The caliper is definitely too high, but other than taking them to a shop to machine down the mounts there’s not much you can do. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Spoke to Wes and am going to drop it off this week. That is my guess on what he is going to do. Pulled the front brakes and those were also an issue with the pad extending over the top of the rotor. But the gap was much smaller, I was able to file it down. However, when I move to metallic pads on the front I will need the calipers ground down because metallic pads are far more difficult to grind down. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ATXZJ Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 24 minutes ago, AustinBike said: Spoke to Wes and am going to drop it off this week. That is my guess on what he is going to do. Pulled the front brakes and those were also an issue with the pad extending over the top of the rotor. But the gap was much smaller, I was able to file it down. However, when I move to metallic pads on the front I will need the calipers ground down because metallic pads are far more difficult to grind down. that is really odd that both are doing this. Be a stretch, but you might also check the caliper itself. Swap the ones off your other bike that doesnt have the issue and see wtf is up. id also machine those rather than just hand grind them if there is indeed an issue with the caliper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider3141 Posted December 13, 2020 Share Posted December 13, 2020 3 hours ago, TheX said: Caliper is too high, the rotor is sitting too low in relation to it. 2 hours ago, AustinBike said: Calipers are literally on the frame. I cannot adjust them lower at this point. A washer would make it worse. Duh. I had it backwards. Still, enough washers and it would solve the problem... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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