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What is the next skill...


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On 10/7/2021 at 6:42 PM, throet said:

Haha funny you mentioned trying not to fall to one side! Here's the ending to that attempt. Felt fortunate to have a tree to grab onto. 
image.thumb.png.984996cdd22b5746dac2beb81148fc39.png

I'm successful ~90% of the time on that step up.  One thing I noticed on your original picture is that your wheels is already on top of the ledge.  Try focusing on your front wheel making contact about ~85% of the way up the ledge so that the front wheels is rolling up the ledge as you shift your weight forward.  This gives you more time to react.

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2 hours ago, ssorgs said:

 

I'll offer that bunny hops are not a good model for ledges, imo. You need more run-up distance and more time to provide for compressing/rebounding your suspension, which makes the coordination of the complete move trickier. I think there are also too many limits to that approach - tall ledges, consecutive ledges, dips before ledges, etc - where the technique isn't just harder, it's counterproductive.  I also find that compressing shifts my weight forward precisely when I need it backwards. 

Using your torso as a lever to raise your front wheel can be quicker, more predictable, and more forgiving than compressing.  More forgiving because bad timing on the compression can lead to an endo (up!), for instance, whereas if you lever your font wheel up but not enough, you can still roll it because your weight isn't working against you.

I rarely, if ever bunny hop ledges unless I'm charging hard on flat ground. The switchback/ledge hellscape makes it tough to carry enough speed & energy to get to the top of a climb, and then try and bunnyhop up a ledge. I just wheelie up to it and as soon as my front tire makes contact with the ledge, i compress the rear suspension and pop/scoop it up with my pedals (like an american bunny hop). 

Works well for me as a flat pedal rider

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8 hours ago, Kobra Kai MTB Guy said:

I'm successful ~90% of the time on that step up.  One thing I noticed on your original picture is that your wheels is already on top of the ledge.  Try focusing on your front wheel making contact about ~85% of the way up the ledge so that the front wheels is rolling up the ledge as you shift your weight forward.  This gives you more time to react.

Yeah I think that original pic is misleading. I didn't actually place my front wheel on top of the ledge. From the video it appears I did make contact about 85% of the way up the ledge as you suggest. I think my problem is that I'm just not thrusting up and forward nearly quick enough, possibly a symptom of being a 63-yr old drunkard. I might just stick with that cheater line of stacked rocks on the right! 

image.thumb.png.f064dac7579d393d142b33b8627fe763.png

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Finally got serious about the manual thing. A while back I built a manual machine, but only used it once and then ignored it for 6 months. Dusted it off the other day and was able to get (and keep) the front wheel up for an extended period of time. My plan is to keep working on the trainer until I'm feeling confident and then take it to a grassy field somewhere to see if it transfers to the real world. (I'm guessing it won't.)

 

ek_manual.3gpp

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A lot of people don’t do this, but it makes a big difference:  Move your brake levers inwards for better index-finger-only braking.  

https://enduro-mtb.com/en/how-to-set-up-your-brake-levers-perfectly/

Especially for manuals, bunnyhops, and jumping, but even just for regular riding, you want to be able to pull up, while keeping your index finger resting on the lever. 
 


 

 

A2C4FAA8-25C3-42E6-AAA2-CBD3BB4F1933.jpeg

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Just now, olddbrider said:

I realized recently that my index finger hits around the middle of my brake lever. The problem with moving my brakes inward is that it makes it much harder to reach my shifter. Guess I'll have to tinker with my cockpit setup a bit and see if I can find a better way to arrange things...

most likely, you can move your shifter around to accommodate this. depends on the shifter though. you might be able to relocate the shifter clamp outboard from the brake lever clamp, or attach the shifter directly to the brake lever. sounds like a bit of hassle, but 100% worth the effort if it means more confident control over the bike.

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next skill set will be learning to ride The Tower:  Early concept for Frisco’s Northwest Community Park includes large biking tower for ‘gravity riding’

Quote

Renderings of the conceptual tower were shown depicting a roughly 100-foot tower, but Coates said the intent is to build a smaller tower. The renderings, she said, are meant to “give the impact” of the original idea for the tower. A total of $2.43 million was given as an estimated cost for a 100-foot gravity tower, but presenters said the cost would scale down with a smaller tower.

The tower would allow cyclists to scale it at various heights and build enough speed to feed into “gravity trails,” 

 

Edited by June Bug
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