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Rear Shock Help


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My Ventana rear ended True Fab was running a Fox DHX which was great, but always on without a functional lock. I picked up a Monarch RT3 with an MM tune. It is smooth and nice, the propedal works really well. But I have never been able to get more than 15mm out of it, so 15mm of sag, then 15mm of use, leaving 20mm of stroke unused. This included bombing a bunch of stuff in Colorado. Doing lots of reading on MTBR I am sure I could tune it myself and maybe get more out of it. I ordered a DBAir IL, but the air can is too fat and doesn't clear the frame. So thinking about the Fox options.

I posted on MTBR and the only response so far was suggesting the DPX2, as I have room for the piggyback. Though a DPS seems fine too (and one of the options from Ventana)

Looking for insights from this group. The Monarch is fine, but I'll have to open it up to change valving if I want to keep it. Returning my DBAir, and it looks like a DPX2 off ebay is nearly the same price. If I go with a DPX2, which compression and rebound factory settings should I look for, low or medium? the RS was medium and likely too much, so assuming a Fox CL and RL?

Edited by Mattlikesbikes
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20 hours ago, Mattlikesbikes said:

My Ventana rear ended True Fab was running a Fox DHX which was great, but always on without a functional lock. I picked up a Monarch RT3 with an MM tune. It is smooth and nice, the propedal works really well. But I have never been able to get more than 15mm out of it, so 15mm of sag, then 15mm of use, leaving 20mm of stroke unused. This included bombing a bunch of stuff in Colorado. Doing lots of reading on MTBR I am sure I could tune it myself and maybe get more out of it. I ordered a DBAir IL, but the air can is too fat and doesn't clear the frame. So thinking about the Fox options.

I posted on MTBR and the only response so far was suggesting the DPX2, as I have room for the piggyback. Though a DPS seems fine too (and one of the options from Ventana)

Looking for insights from this group. The Monarch is fine, but I'll have to open it up to change valving if I want to keep it. Returning my DBAir, and it looks like a DPX2 off ebay is nearly the same price. If I go with a DPX2, which compression and rebound factory settings should I look for, low or medium? the RS was medium and likely too much, so assuming a Fox CL and RL?

You should consider a Manitou Mcleod. No specific tune that I'm aware of. Simple straight forward shock that works very well especially for the price. Replaced the RP23 on my RIP9 with one it completely changed the way the bike felt. No more wallowing through the mid stroke. Set up is basically sag and rebound with four platforms from soft to almost locked also has a blow off if you forget to take it out of firmest setting.

https://www.bike-discount.de/en/buy/manitou-mcleod-damper-front-shock-black-431819

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Also consider a DVO Topaz or Jade.  I've got a Topaz on my Riot and really like it so far.  Bit cheaper (at least the Topaz is) than Fox and almost as good as my Float X2.  The company is also very responsive and answered a few setup questions I had quickly.

http://www.dvosuspension.com/products/topaz-t3air_/

http://www.dvosuspension.com/products/jade/

Edited by fontarin
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My understanding from te MTBR threads is oil isn't the issue, but pulling apart the compression and rebound stack and either changing order, removing spacers, etc, is what is needed. The full surgery requirement is why I was leaning towards the Cane Creek as it is all externally adjustable vs manually revalving.

John - Does the Float have a 4 digit code on it, or does it list out the rebound and compression settings - High/M/L? I'd love to try out something on the Low side for compression and rebound. 

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Matt, the speed at which oil moves through the orifices in a dampener is what determines how it works.  There are other variables like cavitation, whether it's pressurized, etc.   It's possible to speed up your bump and rebound by going to lighter oil.  That's the caveat though: both your bump and rebound will be affected.  By adjusting the orifices you can affect bump and rebound separately.  It would be an easy experiment to try lighter oil.

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On 11/2/2018 at 6:12 PM, AntonioGG said:

Matt, the speed at which oil moves through the orifices in a dampener is what determines how it works.  There are other variables like cavitation, whether it's pressurized, etc.   It's possible to speed up your bump and rebound by going to lighter oil.  That's the caveat though: both your bump and rebound will be affected.  By adjusting the orifices you can affect bump and rebound separately.  It would be an easy experiment to try lighter oil.

Understood, I just know that nobody is talking about oil only fixes on the RS. Watching more videos, maybe I do try the tear down and move around of spacers inside, though I am interested in trying John's if it is a Low/Low shock.

 

Just looking for clarification, the compression setting is likely what would be keeping the shock from getting full stroke (at anything normal for sag/air pressure - I can get full travel, but have to start at 50% sag air pressure)? settings on the rebound side would just impact how quickly it rebounds?

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Yes, compression setting will keep you from using full travel in fast bumps.  But it should not keep you from from full travel in slow bumps.  [I'm assuming this shock has a single bump and a single rebound adjustment, I think the ones with slow/fast bump/rebound all have external reservoirs, but I could be wrong].   If you can't compress it completely in a slow bump condition (i.e. putting all your weight on the back of it) when set at proper sag, I'd suspect the shock is too progressive.  Either it has some packers/spacers/extra grease in it, or the can is too small for the suspension design.

 

 

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7 hours ago, Mattlikesbikes said:

Understood, I just know that nobody is talking about oil only fixes on the RS. Watching more videos, maybe I do try the tear down and move around of spacers inside, though I am interested in trying John's if it is a Low/Low shock.

 

Just looking for clarification, the compression setting is likely what would be keeping the shock from getting full stroke (at anything normal for sag/air pressure - I can get full travel, but have to start at 50% sag air pressure)? settings on the rebound side would just impact how quickly it rebounds?

Sent you a PM. If you want to borrow them let me know.

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