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Upgrading tires - what to pick?


Mason

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I have a 2013 Specialized Hardrock 29 that I have been using up at my ranch just riding around on ranch roads or making some of my own paths.   Recently I have been getting more into mountain biking and want to start going to trails in the area too at some point.  However my tires are getting pretty worn out and are slipping on rocky surfaces, especially while climbing or doing anything at a relatively high speed.  I'd like to upgrade my tires but when searching on what to get its pretty overwhelming for someone who knows next to nothing on what to get.

I was hoping I could get a few suggestions on what tire to get.  The terrain at my ranch is very rocky for the most part. When I ride its usually for 10-15 miles in a big convoluted loop, so 50% down hill, 50% uphill. Nothing very steep.  I have not been to any public trails yet but I'd want the tires to be okay for them too.  My current tires require tubes in them if that matters as well.

Any tire recommendations that would fit my needs? What are y'all riding on?

 

 

 

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Floodgates opening in 3, 2, 1...

There was a thread on the old BikeMojo site (RIP) that had pages and pages of people's opinions on which tires work best around here.  Unfortunately, that thread is probably buried under hundreds of pages of bot posts by now, so I guess we'll have to start over.

Before talking about specific tires, there are a few things to consider.  Do you want to stick with running tubes.  Most folks (I would imagine) on this board run tubeless.  I can't say that I've ever talked to anyone who regretted switching over to a tubeless setup, although there would be some initial costs if you were to switch.  Assuming your rims are compatible with tubeless tires (I'm thinking they might be, given the age of your bike), you'd just need to purchase some Stan's rim tape (or some other alternative), some sealant (Stan's or Orange Seal are the ones that get mentioned around here the most), and make sure your new tires are made to be run tubeless. 

As for tire construction, you may hear the terms "wire bead" or "kevlar bead/folding".  Wire bead tires are old tech and you won't find them on many bikes other than department store bikes or kids bikes.  You want folding/kevlar bead tires.  They are more expensive, but they are way lighter, easier to work with, and will give you the option of going tubeless.

Tire size (width, not diameter) is another consideration.  The trend in tires and bike frames has been to go bigger in terms of tire width.  I'm guessing your bike came with something like a 2.1 width tire.  You might be able to go wider - which would theoretically give you more contact with the ground and a more forgiving ride - but you'd have to look at your frame and fork to see how much room you have.

My current bike came with Schwalbe Knobby Nic tires.  They are OK, but not exceptional in my opinion.  I just recently replaced my back tire with a Maxxis Minion DHR II and I've noticed a big improvement in terms of grip and cornering stability.  The DHR is a rear-specific tire.  They also make a DHF that's intended for - you guessed it - the front tire.   I haven't personally tried the DHF yet, but as soon as my front tire needs to be replaced, that's what I'll be putting on my bike.

A big factor in the decision about tires should account for the type of riding you do and the type of terrain you are riding.  If I was more interested in speed and minimizing rolling resistance, I'd go with a narrower tire with a tread pattern with smaller knobs, spaced closer together.  I'm not fast anymore (or maybe I never was) and I do more casual riding where I'm doing a few jumps and drops here and there, so I've migrated to a bigger tire with more grip.

Performance Bikes is closing their shop on Anderson Lane, so you might be able to get a good deal on something there.  I have ridden their house brand tires in the past and I thought they were decent tires for the money.  I think I rode a Tsali on the back and a Pisgah on the front and that seemed like a decent combination without breaking the bank.

Good luck!

 

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Thank you for the detailed response! I do not mean to open any floodgates however!

23 minutes ago, olddbrider said:

Do you want to stick with running tubes

I'm all for going tubeless, I have popped several tubes on rocks before while the tires were completely fine.  I did not realize it may be possible to go tubeless without getting new wheels.  A google search says someone had converted a 2012 Hardrock to tubeless so I'd imagine the 2013 would be able to as well.

30 minutes ago, olddbrider said:

I'm guessing your bike came with something like a 2.1 width tire

Yes, the bike came with a 2.0 tire.  There is room around the frame and fork so I can go a bit wider for sure.

38 minutes ago, olddbrider said:

If I was more interested in speed and minimizing rolling resistance, I'd go with a narrower tire with a tread pattern with smaller knobs, spaced closer together.  I'm not fast anymore (or maybe I never was) and I do more casual riding where I'm doing a few jumps and drops here and there, so I've migrated to a bigger tire with more grip.

I am definitely not going to break any speed records.  My gps says I average 8-10 mph on my rides and I am huffing and puffing for the most part.   I think I would like a wider tire with since the lack of grip is the reason why I'm needing/wanting new tires.  My riding is pretty casual most of the time.  

 

Maybe a stupid question, but say I bought the Maxxis DHR and DHF you mentioned.  Would I immediately have to go tubeless or can I stick a tube in there for a bit?  I know my wife will be upset with me buying mountain bike stuff before Christmas and a tubeless kit seems like a perfect thing to put on a Christmas list.  (I need new tires asap so they can't wait until then!)

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Agree with a lot of what was said above. This is going to have a lot to do with your preference, riding style, and typical trail. I've been riding on Maxxis Ikon tires. They are XC as opposed to downhill specific but that's what I spend all my time doing. I did max out the size my old frame can handle with the 2.35". Probably cutting it kind of close in the back but YOLO.

6 minutes ago, Mason said:

Would I immediately have to go tubeless or can I stick a tube in there for a bit?

You can run it with a tube. It won't be as light and might feel different. You get more sensitivity without the...  are we still talking about tires?

In case of catastrophic flats or your Orange Seal is dried up it's a good idea to carry a spare tube anyway. Just not in your wallet.

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1 minute ago, Cafeend said:

Wait you have trails on your own property that you can ride 10 to 15 miles on?

Yes, the trail are made for trucks though.  I did make a bridge out of 2x4s to go over a creek where a dam got washed out so I could get to a deer stand on my bike.  Its a cattle and hunting ranch.

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4 minutes ago, taco_junkie said:

You can run it with a tube. It won't be as light and might feel different. You get more sensitivity without the...  are we still talking about tires?

In case of catastrophic flats or your Orange Seal is dried up it's a good idea to carry a spare tube anyway. Just not in your wallet.

Haha I may need to clear my browsing history after this.

Good to know.  I can get new tires now and run them with tubes for a little bit, even if they wont be using 100% of their potential.

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3 hours ago, Mason said:

I have a 2013 Specialized Hardrock 29 that I have been using up at my ranch just riding around on ranch roads or making some of my own paths.   Recently I have been getting more into mountain biking and want to start going to trails in the area too at some point.  However my tires are getting pretty worn out and are slipping on rocky surfaces, especially while climbing or doing anything at a relatively high speed.  I'd like to upgrade my tires but when searching on what to get its pretty overwhelming for someone who knows next to nothing on what to get.

I was hoping I could get a few suggestions on what tire to get.  The terrain at my ranch is very rocky for the most part. When I ride its usually for 10-15 miles in a big convoluted loop, so 50% down hill, 50% uphill. Nothing very steep.  I have not been to any public trails yet but I'd want the tires to be okay for them too.  My current tires require tubes in them if that matters as well.

Any tire recommendations that would fit my needs? What are y'all riding on?

 

 

 

Have some 29er tire that im not using. Some free as well

 

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I've got a set of 29" WTB Nano tires with good tread left.  I got them from AntonioGG but they didn't work out for me.  You're welcome to them for free if you want.  If you have time and bring beer, we could even see about setting you up with ghetto tubeless assuming the rims work.

I'm in NW Austin.

 

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The better you are as a rider the faster (less aggressive) a tire you can ride. The DHF mentioned above is a slow knobby tire. If you can ride a less aggressive tire, then you should, at the very least you should on the rear.

When I started I ran a hans dampf on the front which is about like the DHF/DHR and an ardent on the back. Right now I like a nobby nic 2.3 on the front and an ikon  2.3 on the back.

There are european online sites that have tires like schwalbe for about half the msrp.  Definitely dont pay list for tires. Sometimes the tires ive gotten have been the ones that are about the right aggressiveness, but are on sale.

 

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11 minutes ago, crazyt said:

The better you are as a rider the faster (less aggressive) a tire you can ride. The DHF mentioned above is a slow knobby tire. If you can ride a less aggressive tire, then you should, at the very least you should on the rear.

When I started I ran a hans dampf on the front which is about like the DHF/DHR and an ardent on the back. Right now I like a nobby nic 2.3 on the front and an ikon  2.3 on the back.

There are european online sites that have tires like schwalbe for about half the msrp.  Definitely dont pay list for tires. Sometimes the tires ive gotten have been the ones that are about the right aggressiveness, but are on sale.

 

X2 on the nobby nic. I have some almost new 2.6 and 2.35s lying around 

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I had been shopping around online for tires and ended up getting great deals on Nobby Nics and Magic Marys. Now though I'm not even sure I want to slap that aggressive MM upfront. Seems I do fine with NN 2.35 on front and back. Been running a Hans Dampf up front, but haven't really noticed any improvements over the NN. Maybe I'll hang on to the MMs for possible future visits to Cat Mountain and Spider Mountain.  

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Thank you for all the suggestions!  I am going to go with some Rekons on the front and Ikons on the back to start.  I saw that setup mentioned a few times when googling on my own as well and seems to be a good all rounder.  I may get some Nobby Nics and others down the road just to try out.

I checked out my frame and it looks like I have plenty of room for much wider tires, but my rims are about 24mm wide.  Would fitting on the wheel be an issue with Rekon 2.4s in front and Ikon 2.35s in the back, or should I go with 2.25 in front and 2.2 in the rear? 

Where are some places to order online? I've used Competitive Cyclist before for some other gear, but their prices seem the same with Amazon.

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16 minutes ago, Mason said:

Thank you for all the suggestions!  I am going to go with some Rekons on the front and Ikons on the back to start.  I saw that setup mentioned a few times when googling on my own as well and seems to be a good all rounder.  I may get some Nobby Nics and others down the road just to try out.

I checked out my frame and it looks like I have plenty of room for much wider tires, but my rims are about 24mm wide.  Would fitting on the wheel be an issue with Rekon 2.4s in front and Ikon 2.35s in the back, or should I go with 2.25 in front and 2.2 in the rear? 

Where are some places to order online? I've used Competitive Cyclist before for some other gear, but their prices seem the same with Amazon.

Your rims are plenty wide for 2.35 or 2.4 tires. 

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I am a big fan of these on my singlespeed: https://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/TYOOCM29X24/on-one-chunky-monkey-29x24-tyre

Even with the shipping a pair of these is cheaper than anything I can get in the US and more importantly they perform great and last about a year (20-30 miles per week on the bike).

For my squishy I use Ardent 2.4's, they work fine but are definitely more expensive. May try the monkeys on the squishy one of these days. 

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Your rims are plenty wide for 2.35 or 2.4 tires. 
Yep pretty much was the standard since the beginning of mountain biking. I assume 24mm external. 24mm internal is a more modern XC/trail width.

Ive been pretty impressed with 2.25 Ikons front and rear. I was less impressed with the Ikon 2.35 up front. Thought it would be a big improvement but it seemed more slippery.

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4 hours ago, throet said:

I had been shopping around online for tires and ended up getting great deals on Nobby Nics and Magic Marys. Now though I'm not even sure I want to slap that aggressive MM upfront. Seems I do fine with NN 2.35 on front and back. Been running a Hans Dampf up front, but haven't really noticed any improvements over the NN. Maybe I'll hang on to the MMs for possible future visits to Cat Mountain and Spider Mountain.  

Thats pretty much what i did with the MM. The blocks are pretty tall and needs dirt to actually dig in and work. Pulled the NN and RR off my trailbike and installed a DHF and Griffin and it was a game changer in the loose stuff compared to the NN. I would have never hit the hill of life at the speed i did on my schwalbe combo. For the other 90% of the riding i do, the NN and RR are perfect. 

 

New HD looks like it might be a good compromise

https://enduro-mtb.com/en/first-ride-review-schwalbe-hans-dampf-2018/

Edited by ATXZJ
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First post and it has the potential to become the go to tire thread on this site. Congratulations! :)

Since I’m still rolling 26”, most tires available to me now are super knobby unless I pay list price ($$). I used to ride Ikons though and loved them.

I’ve found that for around here, high volume (wide) with small, closer spaced knobs tend to work really well. Whatever you do though, get an armored sidewall like Maxxis’ EXO protective layer.


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