Kyle

An XC bike is fine.  Ride it until it breaks.  Deception is only 1/4 notch harder than walnut anyway.

I wouldn't spend money on an XC fork for that bike, just get a shock pump and add air so it doesn't bottom out.  Learn to tune it.  Get better tires.  All set.

3 hours ago, AustinBike said:

I have seen people with camelbacks and no helmet and think WTF. But the ones that really pique my interest are the people with elbow and knee pads with no helmet. Can't figure out that risk model.

Knee pads have saved my knees countless times, but in years of MTB I've only cracked 2 helmets.

1 hour ago, horncpa said:

So when I see vague posts about unmentionable trails, does this mean people are referring to trails on private property?   Can someone maybe DM me some details?  Just curious to learn,

 

Nice try Sierra Club.

I'm sure putting a chinese electric motor where a bash guard normally goes will be fine.  

On 12/22/2019 at 6:18 AM, AustinBike said:

I like the idea, but in reality, I never touch my shock and fork settings once they are dialed in. I don't even touch the lockouts for climbing because too often at the end of the climb a descent begins and halfway down I am thinking "wow, this is really rough." That is the wrong time to stop and turn a knob.

Realistically speaking, when people get things like this, how often do they actually adjust them?

Getting a fork with ramp control has actually altered my policy on not changing settings.  There are real tangible benefits to letting out a few psi, zeroing compression and increasing ramp for chunky slow trails.  Then for faster trails with more high speed impact increase psi a little, increase compression damping a few clicks, and decrease ramp.

My initial impression was "Meh, who wants to think about that, just ride" but the benefits convinced me.  Especially slow chunky mode.  I literally laugh out loud when I can shove my front wheel over a rock that would've stopped me any other time.

All these posts about handling sealant like it's precious and surgical apparatuses are signs that y'all need homebrew.

If only there was a solution to both cost and drying out.  Maybe one day someone will suggest something.

1 hour ago, notyal said:

I've been using it for years without any trouble and have probably never made the exact same batch twice. I had to look up the old Mojo thread (http://www.bikemojo.com/speak/14-austin-voodoo/95010-homemade-tubeless-sealant.html)

This was the recipe that I originally got, but it seems like a lot of water:

16oz Latex mold builder
16oz Slime tubeless
16oz RV antifreeze
32oz water

Then this one that doesn't use any water:

16oz mold builder
16oz slime
32 rv anti freeze

Add in Kyle's above with even more slime and still no water. I've never used straight ammonia.

I've played with the proportions and added water and/or antifreeze directly to the tire when the sealant seems too thick. I've used glitter, and I've used no glitter. I think that there is no general consensus on a recipe because it all works. It's not like baking a cake where your proportions need to be exact. Just mix the 3 main ingredients together and add more antifreeze or water until you have that nice creamy consistency. 

I should add, I'm using automotive tubeless slime, not the bicycle specific stan's-competitor tubeless slime.  I use 32 oz basically because that's one whole bottle.  I think the tire slime contributes aggregate and does good things for the viscosity.  I think it also has RV antifreeze properties to resist drying.  I'm musing about what other properties it might have.  

I use the ammonia to loosen up the mold builder before I add it.  I also think it contributes to longevity in the tire.

The RV antifreeze is propylene glycol so it's... non-toxic?  It's for use in potable water systems so I'm not concerned about it.

As far as your recipes go, I always use 100% RV antifreeze instead of straight water because the RV antifreeze is premixed with water anyway.  The second recipe looks very similar to mine except less slime, have you had luck with it?

2 hours ago, AustinBike said:

I'm lazy and life is too short for me to experiment. Stan's works and a bottle lasts me more than a year. The last thing I want is to have to put a tube in because my home sealant formula was slightly off. Has anyone had their home-brew fail on them?

Change to foofy tires for EB.  Change back.  Change to tough foofy tires for Dragonslayer.  Change back...

I was being conservative in my original post, I think my sealant works hands down better than stan's.  The only time I have damage that won't seal is when it's sidewall related.

I've been making my own sealant for years now.  Comparing with my buddies it seems roughly as effective as Stan's at sealing and lasts far better through summer for a fraction of the price.  The one thing I don't like about my recipe is that it uses regular car tire slime.  

My recipe:

16 oz latex mold builder
2 oz ammonia without added soap
32 oz pink RV antifreeze propylene glycol based
32 oz car tire slime

Anyone have their own recipe that doesn't use tire slime?  I was thinking about experimenting with Elmer's school glue which can be had by the gallon for cheap...

I know I'm not supposed to but I just can't stop eating it.

Beautyberry grows all over thumper and truly works as a horse fly repellent: https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/ornamentals/nativeshrubs/callicarpaamerica.htm

I rub the leaves on my back and lats where they usually bite and stick a few leaves in my pockets. 

It also grows close to Barton Creek but is harder to find higher up. 

Iphones can't see flyby?

I've been using these for years: https://www.competitivecyclist.com/lizard-skins-moab-grip

They're soft sticky rubber so they feel good and are easy to hold.  The grips are longer than typical, so you can move your hands around a little, and they cover the end of the bar so you don't worry about scratching your car in the garage.  They wear out in 6-12 months and you replace them for $9.

Is there somewhere else that people are talking about this?  I'm surprised how quiet it is here, on the facebook page, and anywhere else I know to look, considering what a big event it was last year.

I thought this was going to be an Evil thread.

Yeah, the yeti SI link is just a fancy pivot.  It's not a lot of maintenance, or anything that should stop you if you actually like the bike.

The upper pivot on my old Jet 9 was far more work because it was shaped funny and ate bearings.

If  seat tube is non-negotiable you could look at closeout Yeti SB4.5 frames.  I went from a Niner like yours to a 4.5 and my impression was that it was very similar feeling, just better in every way. 73 degree seat tube, and the suspension subjectively feels a lot like CVA.

Now they're about $1k cheaper too.

Who built the bike?

Stuff like this is why I do everything I can myself.

46 minutes ago, AustinBike said:

 But the two top bikes (on paper) are the Ripley and the Tallboy. 

The new Ripley looks sick.  It looks like a great fit for Austin.

If I were in your shoes I'd definitely build it vs buying an Ibis build.  Your Pike is comparable to a 34 performance.  You're kind of a drivetrain luddite anyway, I don't see 12+ speed doing anything for you joy wise.  You can avoid goofy Ibis wheels and 2.6" nobby nics.

2) I have done this at competitive and Jenson.  I figure the guys there press in 100 bottom brackets every day so they'll probably do a good job.  It was free with purchase.  Plus while you're in touch it's free to ask if the price they're offering is the best they can do.  Jenson immediately knocked $300 off a frame just because I asked.

4) I've broken a stans hub too.  There are so many good cheap wheels these days, I would not bother.

5) What happens if 11 speed goes away?  Will you have to... buy a new drivetrain?

You should probably drop it to 130 immediately to see what that feels like.

Every time I've ridden a fox 34 I've ended up with the rebound cranked all the way slow or nearly.

My fork setup revelation was that extremely progressive with low pressure is great for our slow chunky trails.  The low pressure sacrifices some efficiency, but the beginning of the travel is extra soft to help get over rocks.  The spacers give you OTB protection when you roll something you probably should've dropped.

So if I were you I would lower the travel, check rebound, lower the pressure to use more travel, and experiment with keeping the spacers.

5 hours ago, chuckt said:

I was heading into that spot E->W a while back and there was a little girl playing in the ditch... I grabbed a couple fists full of brake and was barley able to stop in time. Her parent was on the west side walking on the concrete path. We made “eye contact” and both of them realized how bad an idea it was to be in that ditch.

That look in their eye was actually them planning where they're going to throw sticks on the trail.

On 7/22/2019 at 6:33 AM, AustinBike said:

My two hardtails have 130mm forks. The pike on my geared bike is a 35mm, the Fox factory on my singlespeed is a 34. Personally the 34 is fine for the hardtail, and would also be fine on my full suspension based on the way I ride.

Considering your size, I'd say a 34 is more than enough. Take a look at some of the take off options. If you get a new enough model the probability of abuse is greatly diminished. I bought a used fork from Seth, so you'd expect a high abuse factor but it was fine 😉

You ride a VerHauen, right?  How did you settle on 130mm?  I have a 120 on mine but have been toying with the idea of going to 130 or 140.  

1 hour ago, throet said:

They used to have one called Brown Sugga that was very similar as well. In fact I think that may have become Lagunitas Sucks. Will be looking for Waldo in April! 

They had a beer called Gnarleywine.  They brewed it wrong one year (like 2011?) and decided to release it anyway renamed Brown Sugga.  It was spectacular.  However, since it was a recipe gone wrong it was impossible to recreate.  Lagunitas Sucks was an attempt to make something similar to Brown Sugga, I guess commenting on the feedback they received when they said they couldn't perfectly recreate the original.  They've reused the name Brown Sugga since then, but I don't think it's the same.