ssorgs

I got one word for you: Pawn Shop.

Ah, Hope Pro 4. XD driver is for SRAM drivetrains. Videos are for Shimano drivetrains. 

21 hours ago, AntonioGG said:

Glad you’re problem is solved but I’m confused.  Is your hub as humans or Hope Pro 4 as the title says?

Now I'm confused... "Hope Pro 4 Rear XD Hub help"  Not sure where the "as humans" comes from?  It's a Hope Pro 4 XD driver freehub and all the vid were for Shimano or Hope Pro 2...

Sure enough! As was pointed out previously, outer race was still in freehub body - mystery part solved. 
Thanks to all that chimed in!

Thx but no. It’s a shimano. Latest diagnosis is that the outer race is still in there. Trying to tap it out now. 

Well now I’m stuck rebuilding. Got my replacement bearing and spacer. But, can’t figure out how to install the outboard drive side bearing! All the vids are for shimano drivers. The XD diagram clearly shows where this goes but there are internal threads (or ridges?) on the freehub body that prevent the bearing from seating more than 1 mm or so. Sure seems like I have correct bearing but there’s really no room between bearing and body… Help pls!

Thanks, but no sign of it. May have missed it hitting floor in garage...still no sign. Gonna hit up Harbor Freight for the O-ring set.

Likely any local shops will have?  Looks like I can get both the bearing and spacer on ebay, possibly by next weekend.  How important is the non-drive side O-ring?

1 hour ago, Chief said:

That looks to me like you got the inner race and bearing cage separated from the outer race, meaning the sealed bearing came out in pieces. Look and see if the outer race is still inside the hub/freehub body. If that's the case you'll need to get the outer race out of the hub/freehub body and replace the sealed bearing. That's not a wave washer it's the bearing cage.

The bearings sit in that cage and go over the inner race (grooved ring) and the outer race goes over the bearing cage with the two seals on either side.

Ah, that all makes sense, thanks! The outer race is MIA, which is why I was so confused.  Wonder if that bearing blew up awhile ago and I lost the outer race at some point when I had the cap off? Seemed like it was a wobbly fit for some time...

Will see if I can buy just the (1) bearing and have seem spacer on ebay for $10.

Thanks!

My hub is both a mess and a mystery.  I've got a 2017 or 18 HUB537 - Pro 4 Freehub Assembly XX1/XD. The full rear hub diagram is here. 

Looks like I'm missing some parts that I may have lost over the past 3 yrs - the 1 mm barrel spacer HUB1009-18 and (1) 17mm x 1.5mm O-ring (non-drive side).  And, I also don't seem to have the drive side, outboard Stainless Steel Bearing - S6803 2RS though don't think I could have lost that. However, when I was disassembling tonight, after pulling the cap, I'm looking at the end of the spacer with ~6 individual ball bearings.

After disassembling I find instead of a sealed cartridge bearing there's one of those wave springs(?), (2) seals, and that grooved ring that's 17x207x5 - see pic. Could that be the Stainless Stainless Steel Bearing - S6803 2RS? Kinda seems like the wave spring could fit in the ring's channel with the seals sandwiching the ball bearings, but sure doesn't look like what's in the Hope diagrams.

Symptomatically, I've been having one issue for awhile, where my chain gets really wedged if over-shift off the big cog.  Thinking that's because of the missing 1 mm barrel spacer. I've also had some sluggish back-pedaling, which could be from the loose ball bearings.  All of this has been exacerbated by bent derailleur hangers.  I can't get replacements currently as they're back ordered (pandemic?!). So I've been  rotating straightened ones.  Today, hanger bent, then chain sucked, bad.  Had to pull the cassette, though not all of the way, to free the chain.  A couple of hours later, started getting a nasty squeal from the rear or possibly bottom bracket.  When I got home I started with removing rear wheel. Downshifted to smallest cog and low and behold my chain was in contact with the inside of the seat stay.

So, is this fixable? What's with the wave spring? Do I need the missing O-ring? Thanks for getting this far, even if you have no advice!

Well done, Seth!  You've made many a mark around here and sounds like we've made one on you, too!

7 hours ago, WLemke said:

It’s held up pretty good. 
 

when I ride brushy, I kick up rocks into the down tube every time I ride and the down tube is looking great. 

For more serious impacts, the vinyl does act as a sacrificial barrier but leaves you with a reminder of your failure. 

Am I missing something or are those areas with chips in the tape now vulnerable to scratch?  Sort of like a single use...condom?

16 hours ago, ATXZJ said:

everything in moderation, including moderation

'Too much of everything is just enough.'

No direct knowledge, but GC is a National Park and NPs don't allow bikes on trails.  Probably plenty of dirt roads and opportunities nearby...

I had the covid in early Sep. Diagnosed/tested pos on Labor Day (Mon). Minor symptoms, low temp and mild cold-like), for a few days. Went for short ride that Sat in mid-/upper-90s and my temp got over 100, then normal that evening.  Soooo Sun I went to LGT as I was freaking about losing fitness as we approached EB.  LGT was a hot mess and my fever came on with a vengeance (~103) and persisted for several days. I wore a mask that ride.  By Sat temp was gone.  Back physically at work (had worked at home mostly throughout) the next Mon, 2 weeks from onset. 

Waited another week before any exercise and then lightly after that.  Built back slowly.  Never felt any lingering symptoms or lung issues, but seemed drained of fitness after a few weeks off.  Probably took another 1 - 1-1/2 mos to feel sorta fit again.

1 minute ago, Shanerpvt said:

Would this still work with an insert?

Never tried, but if they're compressible enough to compress with clamps...

On 1/13/2021 at 3:18 PM, CBaron said:

So much about tire install is technique. 

Not sure if I came up with this on my own, but I've been clamping the tire on either side of that last ~10" using a pair of plastic spring clamps - see sketch.  They squeeze the beads together/towards channel and prevent the bead from backing out if you let go before seating.  Sometimes I still need to use a (pedros) lever, but not too often and it's still easier.  My main concern with using a lever is tearing my rim strip.

Another bonus is you can flip it over and 'stand' it on the clamps when adding sealant.

Went cheap for a replacement for my Fox Transfer lever (which really sucked).  Version I got a year ago was only $25 and it's been solid.  This looks about the same but a different 'brand'.

17 hours ago, skinned elbows said:

There are some Led tubes that will work with or without ballast but sometimes buying a new led fixture is worth dealing with retrofitting old T12 fixtures...ive seen old sockets burn up when wired direct.

They're either plug n play or (ballast) bypass, but not both...

FYI, Reveille Peak Ranch will be renting eMTBs soon with the pending arrival of an Austin Bike Farm satellite shop...

Replacement locking Boa dials - for the taking

Nice, but needs a new head coach...

I've got a Salsa Carbon Rustler 800mm on CL for just a bit more:  https://austin.craigslist.org/bop/d/austin-salsa-rustler-carbon-handlebar/7204118302.html

I'll leave all 3 pair of times out for Teamsloan & schoolie in a box tonight by 7 until they're picked up.  Sending pms with address.

14 minutes ago, Teamsloan said:

Everyone I know who has times (road and mtb) love them. That's why I'm curious. I've always been a SPD guy with no knee issues, so I'm happy. But maybe I could be happier?

Not in my opinion. Lotta great aspects of times - bigger platform, mud/debris clearing, float - but I found them incredibly inconsistent. For mtb, pedal bars would deform and cleats wear quickly so they were never reliable. Get new cleats and they’d be great for weeks... Went back to SPDs and my XTs have been consistent, reliable, and durable. YMMV