Chief

16 hours ago, Yosmithy said:

I have a vertical tank HF special. It's probably 10 years old now. I'm pretty active in my shop, and use my AC for a variety of tools and uses. I keep it topped off with compressor oil and drain the tank regularly. With the usual HF discount, I think I paid $175. Some assembly required. My guess, is that it will probably last many more years. Oh, it's loud AF.

Running your air intake outside your shop will help with some of that noise.

I have this one. It's ultra quiet and fills up in about two minutes. Love it for anything that requires air.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/California-Air-Tools-10-Gallon-Single-Stage-Portable-Electric-Vertical/1000753192

Paid $100 per sq ft in 2006. According to Zillow (which is always inflated) house could sell for $210 per sq ft right now.

38 minutes ago, CrownKing said:

I recently switched to the Osprey Seral 4, a hip pack with 1.5L capacity.  Like you said, it will not be enough water for summer, but combined with a couple water bottles it should be ok.  The main benefit is no more overheated back.  It does take some getting used to with regard to the drink tube but so far so good.

I have that pack. I guess I'm one of the few that hates a hip pack. Tried it twice and was done with it. It gets in the way when getting getting back on bike from standing over top tube.

I have a Camelback Rogue that's pretty compact and holds 85oz of water. Also carry a tube, multi tool, tire pump and quick link pliers.

This is the reality of carbon wheels here in Central Texas, they WILL eventually be structurally damaged at some point. I have a rock strike on my rear carbon wheel that is basically a hole in the rim wall. Moving back to aluminum.  

When I built my carbon wheels the rims were $280 for the pair the same rim is now $260 for one if I wanted to replace it. Got aluminum hoops for $260 for the pair. DT Swiss XM481. 

2 minutes ago, ssorgs said:

Likely any local shops will have?  Looks like I can get both the bearing and spacer on ebay, possibly by next weekend.  How important is the non-drive side O-ring?

Go to Harbor freight and buy a box of nitrile o rings. They're like $5 for a box of assorted sizes. Should have a size that works. There's a number on the bearing seal that tells what bearing size it is just use that number to get a new bearing.

That looks to me like you got the inner race and bearing cage separated from the outer race, meaning the sealed bearing came out in pieces. Look and see if the outer race is still inside the hub/freehub body. If that's the case you'll need to get the outer race out of the hub/freehub body and replace the sealed bearing. That's not a wave washer it's the bearing cage.

The bearings sit in that cage and go over the inner race (grooved ring) and the outer race goes over the bearing cage with the two seals on either side.

1 hour ago, WLemke said:

Sounds like you need some tire inserts. I used to run cushcore front and rear. I then got a second wheelset and moved the insert from my carbon front to my new rear. This was probably a mistake. Lol.  

Cushcore wouldn't help in this situation. Rim is cracked at spoke hole and also has other impact damage areas.

1 hour ago, AustinBike said:

I saw this earlier and thought of RidingAgain...

Who?

On 4/19/2021 at 6:01 PM, ATXZJ said:

It happens

Wife started complaining of shoulder pain a little over two years ago. She blamed everything, playing the drums, tennis, MTB, sitting at the desk for a year working from home, ETC, ETC.  So in mid/late 2020 she decided to seek medical help. First chiropractor said she had some sort of atrophied muscles in her shoulders and started PT for a couple months. That only made it worse and spread the pain down her arms. BTW, F chiropractors. She then went back to her primary doctor and they did a blood draw for rheumatoid arthritis and found nothing. FINALLY they sent her to an orthopedist and after a series of examinations, x-rays and whatever, they diagnosed her with tendonitis, bursitis and arthritis in her shoulders. She was bummed but understood that everyone will have some form of arthritis and is currently getting PT & treatment for it. She's in her early 40s.

 

Lastly, I have 175s on my trailbike and 165s on my park bike. Normally run 170s. Cant tell the difference from any of them.

Testing for rheumatoid arthritis won't disclose osteoarthritis. Rheumatoid arthritis is an autoimmune disease, osteoarthritis is caused by wear and tear. Everyone will eventually get osteoarthritis if they live long enough. Previous injuries are also a factor for osteoarthritis usually a joint that has had a serious injury will develop arthritis. Best thing for osteoarthritis is to keep moving.

Had my roof done in '19. Used a local company and they did a nice job. Even ate my deductible. $17K.

8 hours ago, natas1321 said:

I have all the car titles for the girlfriend and myself as well, somewhere...

Sent from my moto g(7) supra using Tapatalk
 

Somewhere is better than nowhere

13 hours ago, mack_turtle said:

Arthritis at 39? FML!

I appreciate that everyone is different. I'm pretty sensitive to how my shoes fit, the angle of my computer monitor, and apparently where the contact point are on my bike.

Yes contact points are critical for me. Especially saddle. Find a saddle that you like and put the same one on all of your bikes.

2 hours ago, mack_turtle said:

Why not 190mm cranks? If you could ignore pedal strikes on the ground, would 250mm cranks not be better? Certainly there's a functional limit for knee articulation going both directions, straightening and bending.

 

That's fine I get your point. Not arguing or saying that what you're trying to do is wrong. I'm just saying for me the length doesn't really effect me that I am aware of. 

OK take this for what it's worth. You say you're having knee problems especially that your joints are sore after long rides but your muscles aren't. You say that your knees are splayed out at the top of your pedal stroke. You also say you have trouble walking for a few days after a long ride. I'm no doctor but you may want to investigate whether or not you may have arthritis. I know because these all sound like symptoms my wife is going through.

I've had 170,172.5, and 175 cranks on my road bikes. I had no knee, hip or foot problems with any of them. What I did notice, and this is on a road bike is that a longer crank length made climbing hills easier. The 175 cranks I have were on my last FS and I bought them because that is what was available at the time when I built it. My new frame is boost and those cranks didn't work without spacing them asymmetrically. I bought a set of 170 boost cranks for the new bike and don't notice any difference. Please don't think I'm trying to sell you on a set of cranks I'm not if you can use them fine if not fine also. Let me finish by saying don't fall into analysis paralysis, much like the bike fit debate I've found over the years that if something is wrong with how your bike fits you'll know it if you have no issues don't go looking for them.

Either way good luck.

Just started watching The Hunters on prime. Not bad kinda Tarantinoish. Jordan Peele directed it.

I'll have to check out War Of The Worlds.

I felt fine the day I got the J&J. Woke up next morning with chills and headache. Chills went away and some Tylenol helped the headache. Felt good enough to get a ride in. Got home from ride and was knocked on my ass, body aches, headache and mild fever. I didn't even get a fever when I had Covid. Injection site is still tender.

16 hours ago, Taco Man said:

My brother had a bike assembled by downtown Trek (long story on why) but there were a few rookie mistakes by a well seasoned professional.

Myself have been using the 183 store to get specialized parts.  BG Gloves failed and Bee Cave gave me a pretty hard time, I offered to buy a new pair on the spot so they could warranty that pair and they finally relented.

*Side note those gloves also failed and Im done with Specialized

You could start your own glove company but Specialized might try to sue you.

14 hours ago, horncpa said:

Wish:

I know this is a shot in the dark, but my buddy Andy at Peddler Bike Shop is recommending I try some handlebars with more of a rise to them to see if that gets me slightly more vertical.  I'm hoping it will lessen my odds of going OTB.   

Does anyone have an extra pair of 35mm bars with 30-45mm rise?   Preferably 780 or wider but I just want to try it out before I buy new handlebars.   I don't even need to keep the bars.  Maybe just borrow and return if you would prefer to have them back?  

Anyone?

The 35mm stem clamp might make this request a bit difficult. Seems people aren't as open to the 35mm clamp as some other bike standards. I run 35 on my bike and have been looking around a bit for bars with more sweep but there's not much out there that I like.

🤣🤣

I got the J&J Saturday. All of the six cases were all women ages 18-48 typically the age of women on birth control. Certain birth control pills have their own rate of potential blood clots.

1 in 1million chance for getting CVST(cerebral venous sinus thrombosis) from J&J is very low considering 5 in 1million is how many people are affected each year by CVST.

Whenever you consider becoming a conspiracy theorist just follow the money. 😉

4 hours ago, AntonioGG said:

I think some people may not actually know what the full phrase is.  I say the whole phrase, "passing on your left" to prevent this confusion on their part.

Rode road bikes for so many years it just became "on your left".  Road bikers don't typically encounter hikers.😁

I have a Chinese knock off of this. Low profile mounts between my brake and dropper lever.

https://www.knog.com/product/oi-classic-small/

I like when I yell "on your left" and the person steps left. Some of us obviously still haven't learned left from right.

11 hours ago, throet said:

The dealer gets their money regardless of whether you finance or pay cash or whether there are incentives or not. Leverage when buying a new car comes from knowing how low they will go, and generally speaking that should be close to invoice. Of course supply and demand factor in depending on the particular make / model. Bottom line is that you have to be willing to be a bigger asshole than they are at the negotiating table. There are simply too many available new cars on lots to not be in a position of power when buying a new car, unless you are looking for some rare breed.   

Once you're in a dealership they DON'T WANT YOU TO WALK OUT without purchasing. That is one of your avenues of having some power. You try to negotiate a price that works for you if that can't happen obviously you walk, most times the dealer will find a way to get you in that car. Now that being said if you've spent some time doing this dance, carefully read and understand the purchase agreement and terms because that's typically where they try to bury people in a car loan. 

This probably doesn't need to be said here but I will anyway, never ever roll money from your trade into your new car. Once you do that you'll never have positive equity in any car moving forward.