4fun

2 hours ago, ATXZJ said:

Figured I'd post this in the kids thread instead of pay it forward.  Have a leftover drivetrain from my kids 2016 NICA season, free to good kid's cause. 11-36 SLX cassette. 785 XT, 675SLX and a 10spd chain with link. Run a 30 or 28t up front and you'll be G2G. 

 

 

 

I wanna give some other guys a shot at this before I jump on it as I’m not in an immediate need. But if no one takes you up on it in the next few days it would go well on my son’s 24” build that I’m starting to collect parts for that he won’t be big enough for until this time next year.

Same as above on the Zeron, I like the external BB aspect, so I went with that. With the teeth profile of the chainring and the good clutch on the micro shift derailleur I’m not too worried about my daughter dropping chains (probably just jinxed it 😂). The zerons are heavy though.

11 hours ago, Shinerider said:

OK, now I'm just upset https://fb.watch/3jam5klsE5/

I second this! I’ve been trying to find a valid excuse to convince my wife to move to NW Arkansas, Specifically beaver lake/Rogers side for 10 years! Unfortunately the unlimited outdoor opportunities is not valid excuse to her🤣

20 minutes ago, Mattlikesbikes said:

I've got a box of normal range XT/XTR cassettes (34t), but was wondering if I should try one of the large range Microshift cassettes, up to say a 42T. Any idea how well do they work with Shimano or SRAM shifters, and a medium cage rear D?

My kiddos would likely do just as well at this age with the 34tooth and the XT/XTR would be significantly lighter. That’s the downfall of the micro shift 9 speed stuff is the weight! They do shift crisply though

11 minutes ago, Mattlikesbikes said:

I've got a box of normal range XT/XTR cassettes (34t), but was wondering if I should try one of the large range Microshift cassettes, up to say a 42T. Any idea how well do they work with Shimano or SRAM shifters, and a medium cage rear D?

Not sure if microshifts 9 speed cassettes will play nicely with the other two brands. They do claim there shifters won’t work well with the other brands derailleurs. I’ll try and get my calipers out (I need to find a new battery) and measure distance between cassette cog for you. I would think if the spacing between the two cassettes is the same it would work, but might end up needing one of those wolf tooth derailleur hanger extender things for the medium cage.

2 hours ago, Mattlikesbikes said:

What are people doing for tires? I was looking at either the Bontrager XR1 24x2.25 or the Minion in 24x2.3. I like the Bonti price ($25) but I know the Maxxis will tubeless and last a long time. Also, looks like I can get some verison of the Maxxis for $33 on ebay.

I went with the maxxis Recons 24 x 2.2. I think it’s likely the $33 dollar ones on e-bay you are referring to. They are not labeled Tubeless ready, but are 60 TPI and sealed up tubeless with no problems! I also picks up some cheap anodized purple schrader tubeless valves on e-bay or Amazon and they also worked without a hitch. 

I’m hoping I get chance to check out BR by the end of the week. Thanks for all the hard work guys! Wish I could have helped out, seems like every work day for the last year has been exactly the opposite of my availability! I got sweet new trail builder backpack for Christmas, that can carry my chainsaw and even long tools while I ride my bike and I’m itching to get to use it!

1 hour ago, AntonioGG said:

Creak update:  I took advantage of the gorgeous day and rode my bike and based on reading Lennard Zinn's technical FAQ And several readers' suggestions, I looked into chainring bolts (happens on both chainrings) and pedals/cleats (not the source.)  Other suggestions to look at:  derraileur hanger, freewheel/cassette.  So while riding, I noticed I can't make the sound happen when in the small cogs, only on the larger cogs.  So as soon as I'm done working I'm going to remove, re-grease, and re-install the cassette as well as grease the hub.

Good luck my friend! The dreaded random creak, lesser men have been driven past the brink of insanity!

I’ve had a complete rebuild on a fork for $175 and same on shock for $75. Lower only service should be around $40.  + price of applicable seal kits. Unless demand is so high this shop is turning away work (which they might be doing), and just saying an outrageous price I think the salesman either misquoted or you misheard. I would give the 812 mtb suspension guys a call and see what their pricing is. I haven’t used them but have friends that highly recommend them. 812 mtb suspension is in round rock. 

On 1/25/2021 at 11:38 AM, Teamsloan said:

My son is the same. VERY timid on anything with a decent downhill slope. He walks down the dips on the outer log loop. If anyone knows how to get him over that, I’m all ears.

Great picture!


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Start them early😁this is my 3 year old. 

Just as a heads up to anyone out there doing a kids or any other bike builds. I used and would recommend the microshift Advent 1x9 drivetrain if your looking at buying from scratch. The four piece groupset cost me ~$124 and was rediculously intuitive to set up and the shifts are crisper than my Sram GX 11 & 12 speed drivetrains on my bikes. It Feels like it has a good clutch. Longevity is the only unknown at this point. Felt like a bit of a gamble when I bought it but so far a winner.

GTG means to me the trails are ethically rideable! where your not questioning should I be out here. Other than that I draw no other conclusions from the phrase.

7 hours ago, AntonioGG said:

I have bags and bins of nuts and bolts.  If you have any more details I can look as well.

So ran by peddlers and they gave me the thinnest cone nut they had in there random axle bin and it ended up working perfect. 

26 minutes ago, WLemke said:

I may have some spare cones laying around if the LBS is a no go.  Let me know the width you need and I can go and measure. 
 

I also have a spare 700c QR hub wheel laying around. The rim might be too narrow for a MTB but it’s something. 

Thanks I appreciate it.

On 1/19/2021 at 10:48 AM, mack_turtle said:

Shimano's endless selection of freehub "standards" is infuriating. you'd think Shimano could find a way to make that work, but no. 1,000 different types of freehubs and if your hub is more than 5 years old, there's a good chance that you cannot find a replacement. I'm hopeful that it works for you, but I don't think it will. you probably need the EXACT freehub that they designed for that hub body.

So im at the infuriating point, the new freehub got here quickly. Fit and bolted on no problems, runs very smooth. Then replaced axles and cones and found out the cup sits further laterally and so wheel rubbed the left side of frame. I figure I'll just move spacers around and no big deal. Unfortunately the cone nut is too wide to make the correction. So now I'm trying to find a narrower cone nut! Which is sold out everywhere. I will probably head to the lbs and see if the have any in the random bolts bin? I'd have my friend buy a new wheel but that is Also a challenge to find in old school QR. So if anyone has a 29" 135 QR wheel collecting dust in the garage let me know.

Pflugerville has a BMX track, not really too small kid friendly. Took my kids out for a begginer clinic and none made it past the first straight away without tears of fear. Was talking with the operator and they recently spent 5 million revamping it so they could host UCI world cups. I hope they do well, but when I was kid the 5-8 year old age range were the biggest classes and I don't know how a track makes enough money without having those classes full.

I have an nashbar single speed steel bike that is supposively CX bike with drop bars that my wife would appreciate me getting out of the garage. When I get home from work I'll take a picture. I typically use it as a regional trail bike when the MTB trails are to wet to ride. I'd be willing to part with it for $150. I think it's a 56cm frame. 

The only reason I look at times is a loose tab on my own fitness and to compete against my younger self. I in no way will ever be rude or put another trail user in danger to pick up a new PR🤪

I flip-flop between running 27.5 x 2.8's and 29 X 2.4's on my steel hardtail. I feel faster on the smaller diameter/wider tires but my Strava PR's are mostly set on the 29's. The bike is definitely more playful on the 27.5's. I imagine roll over plays a larger factor than the width in my scenario. Also for reference the 27.5 wheelset cost about 3.5x's the price of the 29's and has 3x's better engagement, but yet I'm slower. This all being said my fastest times on both aren't that far apart. I would say let her do a few races and if she is missing the podium by small increments look into some ways to lighten up the bike!

14 hours ago, TheX said:

He's right ya know!

So I pulled it apart last night and did a little google research! And this particular freehub body seems to have a limited life span varying between 1k and 2.5k miles depending on what forum post you read. And replacing the freehub body only costs about $14, so it's essentially disposable. Only problem is it's sold out/backordered every place I looked! Ended up ordering a marginally higher end freehub body that appears to fit the spline on the hub for $25 on Amazon. Keeping fingers crossed it works, but if it doesn't easy return and my friend keeps getting to ride my 2nd bike😁

Quick question. Long buildup. I have a relatively new friend I got into the sport. He ripped his derailleur and hanger off his bike when we were riding a few months ago and I wrongly assumed he must have hit a branch or something to cause this (derailleur completely mangled). I talked him into replacing his 2x10 Sram drive train with a 1x shimano drive train and he bought a new derailleur hanger. He finally got all the parts in a I put it all together and found out the culprit is his rear hub isn't freewheeling correctly and creates chain suck or something that looks like it. The rear hub is a QR 135 Shimano Deore and likely is loose ball hub. This being said, has anyone seen this before and is it worth trying to tear it apart and rebuild it? Or is the hub completely blown and I should have him buy a new wheel?

The dirt was premium to try and get a fast lap on peddlers! Instead I got two in. One with this guy and one with this girl.

Sorry for the over posting, but pretty pumped on this process and figured I should post some of the pictures!

Question for @TheXand @RedRider3141. I'm debating just using vinyl 3m decals vs painting a blue undercoat and masking off with vinyl decals to brand the frame. Does the clear coat go over vinyl decals without making them roll?