mack_turtle

69° with a rigid / 100mm fork, on paper. 120 is probably more like 68. Head tube angle versus front-center is an interesting comparison that gets ignored too often though. I don't worry about going OTB much and worry far more about keeping weight on the front tire in turns. Seated position doesn't mean much to me because ... what kind of jerk sits while wrangling a mountain bike? The seat tube gets pretty friggin slack on the KM though. I can't stand up all the time. Flexy Reba is why I would not want to go longer than 120 on one. Probably better off with less travel than a noodily fork. Even a "good deal" on a new fork is something I'll consider a long way down the road in the context of what I spent on bike stuff recently and the Disneyland trip that I am being dragged into this year. Holy shite that place is expensive!

The Reba I have has different air shaft sizes that alter the travel. 2015, I think. I don't think there's a spacer option for this generation. Mine is limited to 80 to 120mm. I think the spacer reduction method is for older Solo Air or Dual Air forks. I had a Dual Air Reba and I was able to switch it from 80 to 100 mm that way. I had loads of trouble with that fork for I learned how to reassemble it with great efficiency. Might take you up on the 140mm option just to see what that feels like.

I have ridden my Karate Monkey with the original rigid fork (480mm a-c) and a Reba at 120. The Reba is fine, just wondering why I would want to go longer or if I can shorten it. Taking apart a fork to lower it for one ride is kind of a PITA. The Reba at 120 seems fine, but when I see "everybody" using longer forks, I have to wonder if I am missing something from my perspective of ignorance. Then again, maybe I am overdoing it because everyone else falsely thinks they always need more suspension. also just wanted to create an opportunity for people to talk about the hardtails they are riding.

And at what point does one say, "OK, that's enough!"?

I would not say that frame was designed for a 140 mm fork. It came with a short rigid fork and it can handle a 140. That does not mean it's a good idea for me. Stiffer and better damping would probably do me good, but I have yet to feel like "oh man! If only I had more travel on my fork!"

I ask because my frame can take a 140mm fork, I have it at 120 now, it's scientifically due* for a basic service and I could drop it to 100. I have both air springs as options. 140 seems like overkill for my riding, would chopper out the bike like whoa, and that would mean buying a new $$$ fork anyways. My approach to riding is to get away with the "least amount of bike" possible. I rode it rigid a few times lately and I am finding that's just no longer fun. I wonder if I could tune in a 100mm spring enough to make it viable, but that level of suspension wizardry might be beyond my skills as this point. On that note: anyone find that paying extra for SKF seals is worth it beyond the price of OEM Rockshox wiper seals? *I determine when it's time to service my fork by how old the oil stains on the garage floor are. They're getting pretty stale. Probably out to replace my wipers too.

Was the Angleset set up to slackened or steepen the HTA? I would assume most people are always chasing a slacker HTA but perhaps one might want to steepen it after putting a longer fork on.

What kind of tire size and fork do you find to be optimal on a hardtail for Austin riding? What kind of fork is "too much" and at what point is it "not enough" fork?

Party foul: Not a drive side photo.

I am sure the tennis court will serve justice.

Don't worry, we won't judge you.

GXP bottom brackets are pretty cheap, but IME the bearings shit the bed if you get them wet AT ALL. I would ditch the SRAM cranks for an Aeffect set. I bought mine for $110 online and found chainrings for as little as $15.

Are you trying to force a SRAM 24mm spindle into a Raceface BB? The ID of the ND side bearing is too small if that's what I am seeing.

No, leave the gap. On SRAM GXP cranks, the ID of the non-drive side bearing is smaller because a ledge on the spindle hits the inside of the bearing to form a hard stop. That's why Shimano and RaceFace cranks can use the same BB but GXP is totally different. The extra space on the drive side of a GXP BB allows for a bash guard, BB mounted FD, etc.

I don't even want to touch this topic, but I don't think anyone is "deciding to swap genders for a competitive edge."

It's the time of year to photograph your loved ones among bluebonnets.

OMG I LOVE MINIONS PUT tHeM on evryTHING!!!*!

If anyone has XYZ, please pay it forward.

I just saw this company for the first time last week. How long has this product been around? Seems too new to have reviews just yet. Nevermind, they've been around longer than I thought.

I was just about to say... Inner Canterbury loop is almost completely overgrown. I'll try to get out there with a weedeater some time. Also, the "bonus section" of Bauerle has a lot of potential, but the route is hard to follow. Lots of natural and human-made features out there but connecting it all is confusing.

Where and when can I see this in person?

I bought one of the last 2018 PNW Bachelor posts for $200 as well. I like it.

With any closed-cell foam like what HN and others use, this should not be an issue.

I've found a few interesting threads on other forums but very few long-term reviews. Anyone trying a DIY version of Cush Core, Huck Norris, etc? I like the idea since I have a hard time finding a tire pressure that works on local terrain. $150+ for two peices of foam seems ridiculous though. I am trying to find a local source for dense closed-cell foam that will be long enough to work but cheap enough for an experiment that will likely fail. I came up empty at Home Depot and Lowe's.

You put a Sunrace cassette on a Chris King hub? Blasphemy!