mack_turtle

Sold!

I always check that, Facebook Marketplace, and Pinkbike first, naturally. No luck, which is why I came here next.

I'm setting up an old Redline Monocog as a dirt jumper. It needs a fork with an A–C measurement of 435-450. (Most 29er rigid forks are too long at 470+.) I checked everything at Yellow Bike and came up empty. Rigid would probably be better, but a stiff suspension fork would work too. Brake compatibility doesn't matter because I'm not putting a front brake on it. Straight steerer tube, regular old QR dropouts, please.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/hypershell/one-horsepower-ai-exoskeleton-powers-your-everyday-adventure-0 We should have seen this coming.

when was the last time you calibrated your torque wrench(es)? If you're not using a torque wrench at all, you're either fooling yourself to think that your wrist is calibrated, or you're riding with parts that are going to slip loose eventually or are on the verge of stripping out. I just did mine! pretty easy stuff. I did a few things a little different from the video above. I weighed the item I was using as a weight for the test. In my case, it was a pair of 10-pound dumbbells in a cloth bag for the foot-pound tool and a single 10-pound dumbbell in a cloth bag for the inch-pound tool. however, they don't really weigh exactly 10 pounds according to my kitchen scale (assuming that is accurate as well!) so I based the calculation on the weight that I got from the scale. when clamping the square end of the tool in the vice, the vice would twist a bit at full clamping force. to counteract that, I clamped the same size hex key in the other end of the vice. this is tricky with only two hands, but I get it to work.

https://www.mtbr.com/threads/gravel-vs-rigid-hardtail.1204534/page-4#post-15644143 This little narrative about option on a Corner Bar is really neat.

I might not have been in the scene long enough to know there's an old one.

this discussion is mostly about converting an old mtb, but that Ritchey Ascent looks incredible.

if you want to know what affect putting a shorter fork will have on your geometry, here's a simple calculator: https://bikegeo.muha.cc/ Here's a ridiculously complex calculator: https://madscientistmtb.com/bike-geometry-compare/

There's a lot more to it than gearing for sure. My mtb is usually singlespeed 32/20 with 29x2.4 or so tires. Gravel bike is noticably lighter with 650x47 tires and 38/17. I can absolutely smoke my mtb time on any non-technical climb (1826 south of Slaughter Creek Trail is a good example) on the gravel bike, even though the gearing is a lot higher.

I have the First Place Singlespeed hammer on my mantle. I was the only singlespeeder!

I rode the Texas Chainring Massacre on a Soma Juice one year and wrote about it here: https://sidewallthorn.blogspot.com/2016/12/the-versatile-soma-juice-steel-hardtail.html Sorry, the photos died. I'll try to fix that.

a lot of people do this with their older mtbs. definitely a fun idea for a bike that won't see technical terrain. three things to consider though: why drop bar? gravel bikes don't have to have a drop bar, and the obsession with drop bars is almost a fetish for some people. drop bars are great for aerodynamic gains and having a variety of hand positions for long rides. I don't think they help with climbing, and the aero gains probably don't mean much unless you're racing. a flat bar with bar ends or some kind of interesting alt-bar could be just as good. SQlabs "inner bar ends" are an interesting choice as well. if you go to a drop bar, you'll need to futz around with brakes and shifters quite a bit for it to work. pull ratios on mtn and road shifters and dreailers don't always play nice. you can make it work, but it might be a hassle. fit on a mountain bike is designed with a flat bar in mind, so the top tube is quite long. when you put a drop bar on that bike, the reach to the hoods and drop to the hooks is significantly longer. you'll need a shorter stem to make the fit feel reasonable, unless you're one of those gumby freaks who can fold at the waist and hold that position while pedaling for hours. The Surly Corner bar is one of the few options that will at least let you use your old controls and get a drop bar-like position.

Gearilla in the Mist

I was wondering why you were so concerned about theft. are you taking the bike to a theft-prone place? Are you going to leave it outside every night with a shoestring for a lock? common sense measures like using a good lock when you need it, and keeping the bike indoors and out of sight should keep any bike as safe as is practical. anyone who is really determined to steal a bike will find a way, but they're far more likely to go after the easiest target, even if it's a crappy bike. What are you brining?