mack_turtle

Singlespeed would not make a difference. One could predict a good crank length based on some static measurements and a database of thousands of bike fits (I have a book with this kind of data), but a careful analysis of spinning legs would be more useful. Inseam is only part of the story because there is no predictable geometric relationship between where the bottom of your pelvis is and where your hips joint (greater trochanter) are. That's why I resorted to slowmo video and a borrowed carpentry laser. Imagine putting 250mm cranks on your bike (and ignoring obvious pedal strike and toe overlap problems). You'd probably still set the saddle hieght the same height from the bottom of the pedal stroke, but think of the knee hinge required to turn it over at the top. Your knee will start to flare out and you'll feel that after some miles. If the ideal crank length for a rider's leg proportions is closer to 170 and they have 175s, it will be subtle and take a long time, but it might really start to bother the rider. Personal experience tells me it can make your riding miserable. Whatever crank length you're using, if your knees and hips don't hurt, don't over-think it.

I though an 8-speed chain should NOT work very well on a 9-speed cassette. I think you can move "down" (10s chain on a 9s cassette) but you might run into problems going the other way. Unless the chain is really mangled in a few places, you should be able to use it for a while by replacing broken links with quick links if you break a link. A basic chain "breaker" tool, chain wear gauge, and a quick link plier are good to have around. Replace the chain when you can confirm it's worn by measuring.

personal experience: crank length is mostly optimized for your body proportions. too long, and the angle that your knee has to flex at the top of your pedal stroke is too acute. your knee will start to flare out at the top of your pedal stroke. run your cranks as long as your knees can stand if you want them longer, or as short as you want, within reason. (I confirmed with slow motion video and a digital goniometer that 170s work well for me and if I go longer, my knees flare out all over the place.)

what are you talking about? Haibike will be laughing all the way to the bank with all they gain.

it can easily serve to amplify said dickishness.

what they said: "these are bikes for getting up mountains and to help people with physical limitations ride places they could never ride before." what they meant: "these bikes are for brap bros who don't give a shit about trail etiquette, but we'll gladly take their money." I'm OK with being a crotchety retrogrouch about this. I can't do anything to stop it, but I can point out that it's absurd.

no doubt, if self-riding bikes that never fall over and clear everything were available, a few people, including able-bodied young people, would buy them. this generation of people who have everything handed to them without even getting a college degree—you know, the boomers—don't believe in hard work and sacrifice toward goals. they want bikes that ride for them! who are accusing of using gears? JK

*mojo mode* still, I would want to ask such a young man, "why are you such a wussy? ride a real bike, you entitled, participation trophy-expecting little bitch."

I have Velocity Aileron 650B wheels with convertible hubs. the hubs are set up for 142x12 rear and 100x12 front, but I believe youcan make the front 15x100 by just removing the adapters. the rim is 20mm wide inside and sets up tubeless with ease. HG freehub has only been used with single cogs and spacers. tanwall WTB Venture tires in 47mm and a pair of Panaracer 650x50 Gravelking SKs. The WTB tires were just replaced by WTB (something wrong with the construction of the original tire) and the Gravelkings were used for one ride before I realized my frame does not hav a comfortable amount of clearance. I'm interested in moving to a 700C wheelset with 40-43mm tubeless tires. must work with 12mm axles for 142 and 100 spacing.

"Mike! Miiiiiiike! He's riding an e-bike! call the police!"

prohibiting e-mtbs on trails? who do we think is going to enforce that? 😂

most likely, you can move your shifter around to accommodate this. depends on the shifter though. you might be able to relocate the shifter clamp outboard from the brake lever clamp, or attach the shifter directly to the brake lever. sounds like a bit of hassle, but 100% worth the effort if it means more confident control over the bike.

One episode left. it's pretty dark. I feel like I'm missing a lot by being illiterate when it come to Korean culture, but it's darn well done.