mack_turtle

You're going to make more of those, right? Sign me up. I have a strap-on mount for my NiteRider and I hate how tall it is. I use a Livestrong bracelet instead.

One more guideline: let the singlespeeders pass you before a hill climb. They do not have the option of slowing down. Pass them on the downhill.

A bit off-topic: how useful are modern GPS computers for navigating trails? I have a GPS watch, but it's only useful for mapping where I have been, not where I want to go. Could I load a trail route on one and use it to follow a specific route? I could do that with my phone but I don't want a $800 phone strapped to my handlebar, and pulling it out of my pockets every five minutes is a PITA. Clearly I am not cutting edge!

I am curious to see how this works out compared to the Bowie Scavenger Hunt format. I sadly missed that event, though.

I'll make an effort to ride these routes on my own, or with a tiny group. I can stop frequently and check my phone to make sure I am making the correct turns. It will be a "slow" ride in the end, but an educational one. I am not a Strava expert- what's the best way to use Strava to follow a specific path?

Also, I am done with lending tools to people on a ride. Not a CnD ride, but someone nearly broke my pump the last time I lent it out. He was riding very thin tires and didn't want to carry anything heavy like a pump. Bring your own stuff to fix your bike! Unless it's a safety concern, DIY or walk. Karma will bite me in the ass on my next ride when I forget something.

When I rode this last year, I ran 32mm CX tires (skinny ones at that) with tubes. It was rough, and I didn't "kick ass" (more like dragging ass) but it was fine. You just have to get loose and keep pedaling.

apologies to anyone who was following me last night. but seriously, I know these trails very, very well. or at least, I know how to navigate them on my own in a spontaneous way. I have carefully studied the maps you create before a ride, but I know there are some weird turns that I will miss at some point and lead my group headlong into another group, like what happened at least twice last night. that's why I usually don't volunteer to lead. if you can plan a route such that they don't have those hairpin/ unnatural turns, it would avoid a lot of that. maybe even make the route such that two options that lead to the same place going the same direction. for example, don't route eastbound on Slalom and then immediately west on North Bank. if you're going to send people from the soccer fields in Circle C to the Escarpment spillway, there are two ways to do that south of the creek (gravel trail and Disco Go) and three ways north of the creek (walk, no walk, gravel trail) plus options in and among No Walk. easier said than done, I know! how do you create these routes, by the way? do you just ride them and then share the map, or can you create them in Strava using an online tool?

Cheap light batteries are probably not very hard to rebuild. Also remember to recycle those li-ion cells! It's kind of pointless to recycle modern primary cell batteries, but rechargeables contain a ton of foul stuff.

I am trying to picture this, but failing. Where and how was the light attached? What kind of light? This makes a lot of sense though. Motorcycle headlights are fixed to the frame and don't sweep with the steering, or do they? Why should mountain bike headlights do that, other than the convenience of mounting lights to the handlebar? It appears that some car manufacturers are making "adaptive" headlights that move with steering, but cars don't allow you to strap a useful light on your head either.

True. LED lights and li-ion batteries are cheaper all the time. I just avoid lights that take standard batteries because they don't pack a punch like li-ions. My bike-specific lights have 18650 cells and chargers built-in, so they are hard to replace. Some flashlights with replaceable, rechargable 18650 cells and a plug-in charger is a cheaper and more serviceable setup, just not as sleek-looking.

I want to try something like @The Tip has. Something about binocular lights makes sense to me, although I am not sure it matters. Thoughts on single vs dual lights? I have a strap-on NiteRider mount for my helmet, but it puts the light up quite high and I can feel the weight perched up there. I place the light directly on the helmet and secure it with a fat rubber Livestrong bracelet. (Ha!) I might try acquiring a second identical light, or find a way to attach my Solarforce "tactical" flashlights on the sides instead.

Whatcha using? It is that time of year. Currently, I have a MiNewt750 and Lumina 550, both Nightrider products. The MiNewt has two big li-ion batteries in a pack attached by a cable that strap on my frame, the big light on the handlebar. The smaller light has the battery inside and gets strapped onto my helmet with a rubber strap. These are the first and only lights I have ever used. Am I missing out on something or is that a solid setup? Seems like it would be nice to have something with two lights on the handlebar and something not so heavy on the helmet.

I've not tried a lot of different drop bars, but I've used Salsa Cowbells for years with no issues. They are short, shallow, and have just enough flare to make them stable on unpaved surfaces. I have a medium CX bike with a 70mm stem. Top of handlebar is just below level with the saddle. The short reach + moderate drop makes a good balance of comfort and handling for me. TRP brake levers are comfy too.

Like I said, YMMV. Every single other review and experience I have heard about these is they are weight weenie rims for skinny people. Based on dozens of reviews over the years, I would not recommend them for most central Texas riders with a clean conscious.

Crests are generally considered super-light XC race wheels for lightweight riders. I'm 160 pounds and I dented the hell of a rear Crest is short order riding in Georgia, which is much less rocky. YMMV and all that, but most people riding CenTex terrain would be wise to avoid them in favor of something wider, stiffer, and stronger.

I built a KOM i25 front on a Giant branded hub. Should have gone wider, but it works. Rear build is a Frequentcy Team i25 on a Hadley hub. The hub is kinda heavy but strong. Might have chosen a Hope hub if I had to build it again. I'll probably keep this hub for years and years and build it with a wider rim at some point. I don't buy wheels because I enjoy chosing the parts and lacing them up myself. It's not as hard as some people make it out to be, but you have to take your time and do it right.

Rampage? I had one of those. Heavy but good!

Nevermind

One more time: stop being wussies.

The hill from Slaughter to SH45 is quite a bit harder, but still not exactly a mountain.

Stop being wussies.

That's fun too if you jump the driveway that's just north of SCNP and charge that gut-buster of a climb.

FWIW, SQLabs bars come nice and wide with 12 or 16° backsweep. I have the 12s and I like em.

Think about this: are you planning to give up all the stability that most of use enjoy with wider bars because ONE treegate might trip you up? Maybe there are more, but don't set up your bike for 1% of the terrain you ride. Yeah, that treegate/ drop is a doozey.