mack_turtle

regular tubes cost $8-10 these days. I can imagine playing maybe double for a handy tool like this, but $30-40 is a bit ridiculous. This is old news, BTW. This product has been around for a long time.

I am under the impression that the point of this product is not an alternative to tubeless, but a lightweight, compact spare tube for emergencies. No one who would even consider a product like a "premium inner tube" uses tubes, DUH. This product is for people who know that tubeless systems are not bulletproof but also don't to haul around a standard tube. I carry a spare 29er tube and I have had to use it a few times. I try to carry the bare minimum, and a standard 29" tube is quite bulky and heavy compared to all the rest of the little, lightweight gear I carry. A compact, lightweight tube would be perfect, but not worth $35 for me.

REI is a major supporter of ARR, last time I checked. They are generous with their employees, for a retail company as well. Their garage sales keep stuff out of landfills and sell gear cheap. What's not to like?

For reference, this is the lever that came with my BX post. I tried everything, including cutting an old bar end into a stub and mounting it sideways like a shift lever. It hurt my hand so badly after one ride that I could not ride for a week. Fuck that thing.

Some droppers come with a crappy lever, then you can buy an "upgrade" lever later. If crapper + lever = more than the dropper that comes with the non crappy lever in the first place, just buy the post that costs more and does not require an "upgrade." I learned that the hard way.

I had a BX for a while, then switched frames and needed a different size. Went with a PNW Bachelor. The lever that came with the BX sucked! It hinged from the top inside of sideways like a shifter would. Replaced it with a KS Southpaw, which is fantastic. I had to clamp an Odyssey Knarp on the Southpaw due to the cable configuration but it never bothered me. I use the Southpaw with my PNW post too as it seems like a more adjustable design than the one that came with the PNW.

That might be the same one I returned a few months ago. At the time, my seat tube was not deep enough.

I'd rather risk my face than heat stroke in a full lid!

Have not heard that one before!

San Antonio

Almost all of the "single speed" bikes on the market have a derailer hanger, in case you decide to puss out with gears. If you're hardcore, you take a hacksaw to it.

This poster is in my office. Not sure where I can get more.

Surly Lowside, Kona Unit, All City Log Lady if you can still find one. Any bike that was designed around a 100mm fork can probably take a rigid fork without adverse side effects. Buy something with a crappy fork and replace it with a Surly fork.

Welcome to Austin.

Worth a shot: anyone have a trashed front wheel with a boost hub on it I can salvage? I have mine set up with spacers but I'm going to build a wider rim and a proper 15x110 hub eventually.

I have a Two Fish mount that works just fine on my mtb because it's a snug fit on the wider seat tube on that bike. It feels floppy on the narrow steel seat tube of my CX bike and I doubt the similar options will be any more secure. I want to bolt on something solid and permanent. Upon further research, it looks like I can install rivnuts without the fancy tool.

I have a steel CX bike that only has holes to mount a water bottle cage on the downtube. I bought a Two Fish bottle cage strap but I find it to be finicky on this bike. I'd like to drill my set tube and install proper rivnuts for a second bottle. Anyone have tools and experience to do this at home?

To clarify, I am not saying that stiffer cycling shoes would not help. Just offering some pushback from the notion that orthotic insoles solve all foot problems. Most of the time, they mask a deeper underlying problem that is now a ticking time bomb that is going to start hurting someplace else.

Xero sneakers. I wear these to work every day (Lems makes some similar dress shoes) and I've walked thousands of miles in shoes like this over the past few years. I get blisters on my toes on very long vacation days, but my feet rarely hurt anymore. I ride in Five Ten Freeriders with flats and Maltese Falcons on SPD or Giro Carbide shoes for clipping in. These are fine for riding bikes because they are efficient and protect my feet from rocks, but they are the opposite of what I would wear as everyday shoes.

As Brent said, could be cleat placement. Not a fan of orthotics anymore. That's like putting a permanent cast on your foot. The human foot is a breathtakingly elegant peice of biological architecture that supports itself if you keep it strong. Part of that means not crippling them with overly supportive, stuff shoes and insoles. I like shoes that protect me for the task I am doing, but my feet rarely hurt anymore because I don't crutch them. Look up Katy Bowman. There's also a good chance that your issue has nothing to do with your feet. I am not even going to start playing Web MD for you there. There are dozens of things that could be amiss. You need to see a medical professional to sort that out. I highly recommend the medical wizards at Endeavor Physical Therapy.

Road brake levers fit that bar, so it must be a 23.8mm roadie moustache bar.

I have two Surly cogs- 17 and 18 tooth.

Most are universal. The just space both sides of the axle 5mm and space the rotor out 5mm. Nothing hub specific about that. Found one on Amazon for $5, but those idiots sent me a rear adapter instead of a front.

Serious question: in what manner were the bikes locked to the car, if at all? Just curious to see if theives are stealing "convenient" targets of if they are going to the trouble of cutting locks.

Of the last few stolen bike alerts I have seen here, several have been from the Domain area. Seems like a trend. Keep you shit locked down hard around there!