mack_turtle

Local used from someone trustworthy seemed fine this time. My previous experience was with an older fork from an unknown seller. The inside of the air spring had a big scratch in it that took a long time to diagnose because I was a suspension noob. (Still am.) I resolved it by switching the air spring and damper on the csu.

Gonna buy a used Fox 34 from @4fun. I think it's 130mm. I want to reduce the travel but I'll probably learn to love the extra squish and leave it.

44mm straight, so a tapered fork fits not problem. That's what I have now. Two forks like that, actually.

People who still like the precision of 2x and 3x drivetrains are raging right now. I like the idea though.

Got a new fork but my front wheel is 10mm too narrow.

Most shops with a QBP account, which is most of them, can order Surly stuff. I bought mine at ATX Bikes because they have been so supportive of the south Austin scene. It was a frame only. I didn't use the fork and sold it. I've seen Surly bikes in stock at Bicycle Sport Shop, and Surly just came out with a complete KM option with a suspension fork. The difference is that the KM has a higher bottom bracket and a moderate reach compared to some similar bikes that are longer and lower. I prefer this more compact fit to something that is taller, lower, and longer. Personal preference because I like my bike to handle poppy like a trials/ BMX bike over a longer sled-like feel. If I rode a Honzo, I'd have to size down to get the style of handling I prefer. You may prefer the latter. If you have the opportunity to compare two similar bikes side by side, set each up so the grips are the same distance from the BB. Same hieght/ horizontal distance of you can work that out. This will tell you how the bike handles when you're standing and wrangling the bike over terrain, especially if you're going to make full use of a dropper post. Don't compare distance from the bars to the saddle at all at first, as that, IMO, is secondarily important to standing fit, especially on a hardtail.

I've spent way too much time over-analyzing hardtails. I can share with you my take on those three, plus a few others. I ended up buying a Karate Monkey this time around.

Again, my experience with BC is very limited, but is there room to have a conversation with the authorities on drainage for the nearby neighborhood? In my line of work, this level of drainage is an indication that people are wasting water and their own money by over-watering their lawns. It seems that the ditch is there because it's just the way Nature is moving that water, so I doubt there is a reroute option. Education would be the first option to get people to water more efficiently, assuming that's the root cause.

I had a Pitbull rear brake too. Cool looking but horrible in every way!

You can "true" a rotor back into shape if it's not too badly bent. I bought a Feedback Sports tool for that job which is cheap and will save you a ton of hassle and $$ over replacing rotors at the first sign of trouble. you can often do it with clean fingers, a paper towel, and an adjustable wrench. If it's mangled though, replace it. Some rotors don't play nice with other brands' calipers. It's a matter of the rotor's outside shape. Some have waves and angles that don't line up with the pads or might hit the caliper.

I've not encountered this feature, but might it be a good idea to preempt the inevitable asshattery by putting some way to pull yourself up that rock? Maybe a rope or chain, or some hand/foot holds that will hold up without affecting the route down? Might also be useful to a rider who attempts the drop, biffs it and needs help getting out with an injury.

So long as you're paying for the service, it does not matter. I worked in bike shops for six years and we never got upset about that. What do you need "set up"? I've build dozens and dozens of new bikes out if the box from various manufacturers. Doing it right is not difficult, but it's a little more involved than the manufacturer might lead you to believe.

Out of town this week but I'll check my supply.

2014-15 Reba 29er XC fork. The 4 after the letter T indicates that it's a 2014 model and I bought it in February 2015. 100-120 mm travel, I have both air shafts. Currently 100mm. Standard MoCo damper 100x15 thru axle (not boost) 46mm offset. 7" long steerer- might be too short if you need your handlebar high. Headset race not included. Well-maintained, but I think the CSU has started creaking. Treated with retaining compound. Annoyed to me but not critical. I have a few spare internal seals for it as well. $150 or partial trade. Looking for a nice 31.8mm flat bar at least 760mm wide. It's served me well but I think I would enjoy riding a stiffer fork much more.

How am I supposed to snatch the KOM now?

mountain biker logic- my kid broke an expensive plastic frame by letting it fall over in slow motion. Response- buy another expensive plastic frame. No apologies for this perspective: bicycles should not be made from glue and fabric. Make bikes metal again. Now get off my lawn.

I can't vouch for it, but it might be worth looking into Fiber Fix.

In the video above, you can see that the large cheater rock wiggles quite a bit in its home. I wonder if it wiggles right out and down the bank, then someone tossed it out of the way rather than replacing it.

Yes, yes they do. Some of the running segments in SATN are insane. When I think of riding a motorized bicycle on trails, it makes me think of someone riding a Bird scooter in a marathon. Apples and oranges?

The widespread adoption of e-mtbs by people who are otherwise able-bodied is the best case for alarm over the wussification of America. Wussies will disagree.

I recall sitting in a classroom where Fox was hosting a class for mechanics to learn some basic suspension maintenance. Someone asked that exact question, something like “your service intervals indicate that some of my customers should bring their bikes in more than once a month for a bath oil service. Is that really realistic?” the tech rep from Fox didn’t even flinch when he said “yet, your customers should bring their bikes in to have the fork and shock serviced once a month if that is the case.” This surely makes the suspension component last longer but it also covers Fox’ butts for warranty if they want to. They can say about any failed product that you didn’t keep up with the service schedule, so it’s your fault. I get the impression that they are pretty generous with warranties if you are persistent about it, but the overly-aggressive schedule can be used against the customer in some situations. A rider will have to do the math- how much does it cost to constantly yank the fork apart and clean everything, replace oils and seals, even if you do it yourself? How much does it cost to pay someone else to do it over time? How long will that fork last with or without that aggressive maintenance schedule? How much does a new fork cost in two years when axle spacing, dampers, springs, steerer stiffness, weight, and all that have “improved” in that time? My experience is that nothing lasts for years and years of hard riding, regardless of how carefully you maintain it.

E-bikes are a great alternative to driving for practical uses and good for people who, for whatever medical reason, can't ride a normal bike. "I don't like climbing" is a dumb reason to ride a sissy motorbike, but if that makes someone happy and does not jeopardize access to trails for the rest of use, spend your money on that kind of toy.

A few inches of the right size PVC pipe will do the job too.

At risk of sounding like a broken record, you would not have to wait all the time and spend all that money if you do it yourself. Bring some dark beer by my house and I'll walk you through it.