Mattlikesbikes

An original (11yo) RP23 is a massive POS compared to what is available today. You got 8 years on it with no maintenance, I would just look for a whole replacement. You'll be amazed at how much better things have gotten.

Both of my bikes are built for 29 <2.5" but I am experimenting with larger up front. Both are frame limited. SS (Stans MK3 30mm rims) - Front 3" Rear 2.4" Full Squish (Stans Flow) - Front 2.75" Rear 2.4" Love the extra meat on the front. For the SS, with a rigid fork running a 3" with 10psi is awesome. The next SS frame will for sure be a 29+ frame.

Says a USAC account, not a license, so who knows.

I also like to wrap my chainstays, both sides, with black road bike bar tape. On the chain side it helps with chain slap, and for both sides it cuts down on pop up rock dings and scrapes/bashes from the taller baby heads.

whats what happens when you ride a trail when it is wet. The gods break your bike. At least it is an easy to replace part and not the main triangle.

Understood, I just know that nobody is talking about oil only fixes on the RS. Watching more videos, maybe I do try the tear down and move around of spacers inside, though I am interested in trying John's if it is a Low/Low shock. Just looking for clarification, the compression setting is likely what would be keeping the shock from getting full stroke (at anything normal for sag/air pressure - I can get full travel, but have to start at 50% sag air pressure)? settings on the rebound side would just impact how quickly it rebounds?

We did well getting our dog trained on a handlebar bell. She would normally stay close but when she jumped off trail the bell sort of told her to get back to me. We never took her to BCGB, but rode a lot of WC when we lived next door to the park.

My understanding from te MTBR threads is oil isn't the issue, but pulling apart the compression and rebound stack and either changing order, removing spacers, etc, is what is needed. The full surgery requirement is why I was leaning towards the Cane Creek as it is all externally adjustable vs manually revalving. John - Does the Float have a 4 digit code on it, or does it list out the rebound and compression settings - High/M/L? I'd love to try out something on the Low side for compression and rebound.

I will take it! Txting now

My Ventana rear ended True Fab was running a Fox DHX which was great, but always on without a functional lock. I picked up a Monarch RT3 with an MM tune. It is smooth and nice, the propedal works really well. But I have never been able to get more than 15mm out of it, so 15mm of sag, then 15mm of use, leaving 20mm of stroke unused. This included bombing a bunch of stuff in Colorado. Doing lots of reading on MTBR I am sure I could tune it myself and maybe get more out of it. I ordered a DBAir IL, but the air can is too fat and doesn't clear the frame. So thinking about the Fox options. I posted on MTBR and the only response so far was suggesting the DPX2, as I have room for the piggyback. Though a DPS seems fine too (and one of the options from Ventana) Looking for insights from this group. The Monarch is fine, but I'll have to open it up to change valving if I want to keep it. Returning my DBAir, and it looks like a DPX2 off ebay is nearly the same price. If I go with a DPX2, which compression and rebound factory settings should I look for, low or medium? the RS was medium and likely too much, so assuming a Fox CL and RL?

That's some of my normal area for afternoon road ridea during the week. My triple B is to ride from courtyard at 360 up to 183 to warm up then work over to Mesa and do repeats on Mesa, far west, and Ladera Norte. One of each then repeat. Road hills will make you far stronger than hours on a mtb. Even just one road hill and one road tempo ride a week will make you a weekend mtb monster.

OK, so do I go with the Hadley or the DT RWS?

Dashcam Dashcam Dashcam. Get one. Use it.

Balle is out of stock, none of the other mainstay parts retailers have it. Bikebling.com says they have one in stock, but I'm not sure about them. Sort of a mixed bag of reviews out there. The handle thing on my DT broke off on the front QR of my SS and also broke on the rear for my FS bike. The FS one broke in my hand, so have it and can still use it to take the wheel on and off. The SS, nope. So I have to make sure I always have it with me. Not something I want to stress about always having on me.

It's getting harder to find. I had a DT RWS, but think a bolt on vs the DT "ratchet" would be better. Looking for 10mm x 135mm Thanks

One thing I had forgotten about till I just moved to a new hydration pack - imodium. I've had a couple really good long (60+mi) races go bad due to tummy troubles. The moment things don't feel right, one magic pill and you won't have to poop for a week.

It used to be if you had good tires, you could ride IN the rain out there. Sounds like that is no longer the case. Too bad. not a lot of places in the city to even find that much just rock to even build trails to replace CP.

All new, just been sitting around. The Continental was bought online about 6 months ago so is new rubber Bontrager Jones AC 29x2.2 - $20 Geax AKA 29 x 2.2 - $20 WTB Exiwolf 29x2.3 - $20 Continental X King 29x2.4 (mounted, and 99% of stans wiped out when pulled) - New new tire. - $30

So that might be an option. HOL down is usually fine when wet, then one of the routes back up?

I've not been to CP in years but heard that as CP has seen more Moto focus, the trails are less good when wet. Any feedback on that?

I use a pencil case for ogranizing bag tools. Lots of pockets and loops for holding everything tire, chain, etc repair.

Bailing wire. Ductape is for pussies, wire that shit together. a few lengths of chain. Lots of people carry a link, but on the SS when someting breaks you may need a pair (inside and outside). On the geared bike, a break could require you to shorten chain and thus lose gear range. Just carry a bit of extra.

No spacers. So, while it should be the right tune (mms) it's a bit much. I guess I experiment with lower pressure/more sag to see what it takes to get 95%.

Yes. Let all the air out and it goes to full travel, 20mm more of stroke. So rough math, 40% left, and 30-35% sag means my operating window is 25-30% of the 50mm. I'll get it into the vice and get the can off see what spacers look like. Should I just pull them all and put back as needed or take some and keep taking more as needed?