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mack_turtle

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Everything posted by mack_turtle

  1. I am at the small Lamar store now: 29"/B+ Yari boost fork, 120mm, steerer has been cut but still plenty long. About $350! Lots of wheels including some Arch MK3, Forte, Mavic, Oval 527, Lots of tools! Drivetrain parts, shifters, Cati brakes, etc. Shimano, giro, and Garneau shoes. Some mountain bikes. A few Marin Pine Mtn rigid B+ bikes. Tubes tubes tubes! Saddles 40% off.
  2. Are both stores still open? Anything worth getting? If I can stock up on 8-speed chains at a discount, I'm in.
  3. Nice, I see some Aeffect cranks for $120 new and the cheesy steel rings are only $15. That'll get me rolling again.
  4. I don't swap rings often. I have a round 32t ring and oval 32 and 34t rings. I'd be just fine with a 32t set-and-forget.
  5. I damaged destroyed the spider on my SLX cranks but the 104 BCD rings I have for it are still good. I'd like to get a new crankset from Shimano or Race Face because I like using Shimano BSA bottom brackets. Shimano has mostly gone to a pointless proprietary asym 4-bolt design, so I am hesitant to do that. Most of the other manufacturers have gone to some sort of DM system. I was thinking about getting a RD Ride cinch crankset with a RF ring. under $125 online for the whole setup and I have a BB for it already. sound like a good idea? general questions: what DM interfaces, if any, are compatible? what DM cranks/ rings are most common and most affordable? pros and cons of different DM systems?
  6. Sometimes being clipped in messes you up. Sometimes not being clipped in messes you up. There's a chance he would have gone down regardless of pedal choice. Perhaps it would have been worse if he were clipped in. Who knows? AllI know is that after 10 years of riding clipped in, riding flats makes me feel like I have wings in comparison. Fewer crashes and gobs more confidence. YMMV. Being a pedal evangelist is a good way to get on the ignore list.
  7. That sucks! Hope he's feeling better soon. Yeah, blame the pedals! Definitely not any sort of rider error. If he was clipped in, he could just float effortlessly over everything.
  8. thanks! I will keep that in mind. I don't know if I want to get M8000 cranks because I'll have to buy new rings for it as well. I have two 104 BCD oval rings that I use so I'll stick with 104 BCD cranks if I can. I am waiting to see how my frame saga turns out first, so that might be a while.
  9. https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deorext-m8000.html (click on "crankset") I gather that B is boost and the number after is is the number of chainrings. B1 is a single ring boost, B2 is a double ring boost, and the non-lettered 1 and 2 are narrower chainline single and doubles. If you're buying for a bike that does not have boost spacing on the rear hub, stick to non-boost cranks.
  10. Traitor Crusade, 52cm medium. $750 http://www.traitorcycles.com/2015/Bikes_Crusade.cfm I purchased this bike new in January of 2018. Used for several gravel races this year. Upgraded components indicated with a *. Gave away the wheels, tires, bars, stem, and cranks. · Traitor Crusade steel frame and fork (same as a Transition Rapture) · Salsa Cowbell 3 handlebar* · Shimano 105 crankset with 172.5mm arms and 39t ring* · Stan's Arch EX rims*, set up tubeless with Panaracer Gravelking tires* · Giant carbon fiber seatpost* · TRP Hylex hydro brakes · Paul Word disc rear hub* with fresh bearings and 16t White Industries freewheel* This bike is smooth and lightweight (for a steel bike). It's been great on mixed-terrain urban riding and gravel racing. It could make a good all-weather commuter. I have not raced cyclocross, but I imagine it would do well on a cross course with some knobbier tires. I am 5'9" and it fits me well. You can put front and rear derailleurs and a full modern shifting drivetrain on this bike, but you would need to change some parts. cracked my mtb frame, so I need the cash more than I need a second bike.
  11. Most people who ride bicycles, even mountain bikers on trails, don't care about being "serious" enough to buy into fredly accoutrements like fancy shorts, special pedals, and power-measuring devices. They just buy a bike and ride it. People like us who are even familiar with the concept of watts as it applies to riding a bicycle are a tiny sliver of the population.
  12. I really don't give a fuck. You can't quantify fun. Riding flats is not noticably limiting me in any way but I am still having fun with slightly less pucker factor. I am pro-choice regarding pedals, but I don't base my choices on what will give me a KOM over the other local weekend warriors Freds.
  13. I ride a hardtail, with a rigid fork most of the time. Flat pedals work fine for me. It took a few rides, but now that I know what to do, Seth's concerns above are 100% nonsense on my bike. The precieved efficiency gains from riding clipped in were mostly in my head and negated by the additional fun I am having (subjective). If I can't bunnyhop and control the bike without clipping in, that's because I suck. 😝 if my feet fly off flat pedals, I'll get some shoes and pedals that don't suck or learn a little technique, my lack of which has been hidden by years of riding clipped in.
  14. only impressive if you have a real ACS rotor and checkered Vans. you must do all that with a full-face helmet as well.
  15. Most likely, you can buy the appropriate seal kits and a pack of Thirsty Goat and bring it to my house.
  16. The multi-release cleats have been around a long time. They come with low-end pedals that are designed for casual and beginner riders who are hesitant to commit to clipping in. However, they seem like a good idea for technical, slow riding.
  17. A bunnyhop is a bunnyhop. "J-hop" is what Juggalos on walgoose BMX bikes call a bunnyhop because they've been huffing glue and don't know any better.
  18. it should not be all that hard to remove grips and put TOGS on. even with slip-on grips, they can slide off. most people leave a gap between their brake lever and the end of the grip (unless you have itty bitty sausage fingers), so there should be some room for the TOG to fit there.
  19. lost my footing a few times on rocky terrain. otherwise, good shoes and good pedals + time to hone technique means I have 50X more confidence on difficult climbs where I would be afraid of stalling and falling over with the bike and 1% decrease in the last ounce of power to get over something difficult. the bonus is, when I lose traction or momentum, it's effortless to get off the bike and walk, and hop back on and start pedaling again. starting on an uphill and trying to clip in is a huge PITA< especially when you only have one gear on your bike.
  20. The main problem with flats is that people don't take time to adapt. You can't ride anything just once and declare that it sucks. It takes a few rides and a consious effort to unlearn some old habits. The results are worth it IME. I thought the term "j-hop" went out with "gooseneck." If you hop front wheel first, that's just a skillful bunnyhop that can get some height. Hopping with both wheels at the same time is just a lousy bunnyhop.
  21. Even better, I'll give you a pair for free and you can make your own assessment.
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