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bear last won the day on June 20

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  1. I always felt CP or Thumper would cook you faster, but maybe something with more air? How is Lakeway at worst peak heat?
  2. I actually just put a mandatory 4-5 clise-out meeting Fridays for all my direct reports. Then I skyped then to tell them I'd never be there unless there's and ongoing Incident. Considering repeating for M-Th
  3. "back in the day" ... in the '00s when I lived in ATX and worked in the pixel mines most ppl I worked with got in to the office between 10-11am so I went for ~2 hr GB or CP rides most mornings. Stupid humid, yes, for the warmer times but beat the crap out of not riding. Was quite challenging sometimes considering at the time I rode with double-lensed eyeglasses (RX + sunglass shield) so fogging was a problem. *&*&*^^&^&^ job now has 8am "huddles" and "crap" often kicks up at 3:30-4pm ... why, again, did I go for promotion last summer? Must have been hypnotized.
  4. Fwiw, if you don't have and want some RDU local info or riding time shoot me a pm or email. Usually free weekends and with a bit of planning can make more time. Good luck in your journeys.
  5. Focus on western half of NC ... Raleigh area getting lots of Big Tech inflow and all that means. And while the riding is decent around Raleigh it's better around Charlotte . I'm no expert on the mountain towns like Boone though, only barely explored at all. Stupid pandemic hit right after we got relocated here so kind of hamstrung that way.
  6. Yeah, same initial reason, but I've given up on that altogether , even use a more miles and fragrance free soap and shampoo now, no complaints. Not like the old stuff held up against real sweat situations before anyway. Would have had to bodily dip me in it to get full coverage of where my sweating originates.
  7. Me too, my Big Sweat is just nasty, doesn't matter how well I'm balancing electrolyte input. Also makes it really hard to truly clean my backpack after it's absorbed a month or so of rides. Yuck.
  8. nobody mentioned using dry chain-lube on the pedals while breaking in new cleats or pedals for clipless; can help a lot with SPD and SPD-like; Doesn't seem needed for Crank Bros or Time though IMO ... but then both of those wear out cleats quickly, IMO.
  9. i think my "road trip kit" is like 30# between the toolbox and two plastic boxes of "trip savers" that include bike specific parts, likely failure parts, and some other stuff that's just better to have instead of needing to "get to the shop before closing" ... like when someone notices their brake pads are cooked after a day at Klondike or TWE run. Prefer to spend my trip money on food, drink, and friends vs overpriced repl parts and waste time. On the up side these parts serve as my back repl parts for when something wears out normally ... use it and order replacement immediately. Reminds me I need to order a repl BB for my bike since I just cycled one out.
  10. i've only had it about 9 months and only needed it a bit but have a Lezyne Super SV23 which so far i'm happy with. Seems like the tools MAY be a bit longer than what you but doubt it's by much. The whole folding tool thing doesn't give a lot of room for situations like you have, but it does have the 8mm you're asking about and the quality is good. Ask me again about rust-resistance next Sept, but seems likely okay. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B087W68V71/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  11. I've had good results with Wolf Tooth WT-1 (currently on 6 month trial vs Boeshield T-9, my go-to zipper lube).
  12. i'm with you AB, switched to Osprey a year ago and the pack is Just Better than that other brand product. I've also taken to a hip pack for short adventures, nominally under 2 hr jaunts that I only need a water bottle for ... i don't even bother with bladder in the pack ... i leave the space for the crap I want there (tools n parts) and keep the weight under control so it doesn't drop to my knees on a bad landing. 😛
  13. @mack_turtle - what he said about center of gravity between wheels - i've been telling people for years and still believe that the neutral position should be with CoG centered between wheel contact patches. So, up/down-hill, turning, whatever, gives the rider the most easy control on keeping that center based upon the dynamic conditions. There's a LOT of tolerance for moving off that when conditions are "easy" but if you have dynamic situations with lots of change then being stuck biased in one direction or the other leads to loss of control (or, rider panic and increased heart rate and blood pressure). @June Bug - yes, we're stlll in Raleigh, probably for at least 2+ more years, ask me again in '23 who knows what will be going on. There's reasons and stuff and Adulting to be done between now and then. And a lot of Western NC mountain biking to be done too ... and some Arkansas riding ... and if I can at least 1 more trip to ATX ... been too long already.
  14. JB, for what you're talking about in my opinion it's a lot more about the physiological relationship between seated position and the crankset - however that comes together from the combination of saddle, saddle mount, seat tube angle & length, crank length, distance from saddle to h-bars, etc. etc., in comparison to the rider's physiology. To me that grinding along climbing is more akin to needing good pedalling position like a well fitted road bike so that the muscle effort is well balanced in the legs and torso, the upper body is in a neutral and supported position, which includes balanced front wheel pressure. So, that 1.8d difference in seat tube is more likely accommodated by the fore-aft position of the saddle .. or just a well fitting bike. Probably not a really helpful response, even with a lot of words.
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