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  1. My wife and I were riding at Muleshoe yesterday and had a young coral snake cross our path. I usually only see one every 2 years around here anymore. And then.....this morning during our 5:30 run, we saw a larger coral snake moving along the gutter in TC. I should buy a lottery ticket.
  2. True, but you haven't seen Sammy Hagar and his band fighting the third world in a cab. Start at 1:20.
  3. +1 on the tampon, with a pungent odor of canine feces quilting the humid air.
  4. My 1939 Schwinn DX straightbar converted to 2-speed coaster brake. Sold it last year.
  5. We have four sets of Enve rims and they have been nothing but reliable. The other two Reynold carbon sets came stock on our Switchblades and are also easy to mount tires and stay true. A few years ago, I had a nickel sized hole in the side of one of my older wheels from a rock strike and Enve replaced it free without hassles. The newer M50-60s don't have the bead hook, so they are even easier mounting with initial mounting pressures of 50psi (Maxxis Ikon 2.2 to Minion DHRII 2.4). I'll take lower inertia wheelsets any day. Probably not noticeable in Enduro riding, but noticeable over a 2-3 hour XC race, especially in the mountains or accelerating out of 100-200 turns; just a factor among many to having a good race. I don't miss regularly truing wheels, breaking spokes and breaking nipples with the alloy rims. To answer the OPs question: generally 30psi rear, 25 psi front.
  6. Rock Shox Reba Race 29er fork, 100mm, 9mm QR, serviced by Push Industries. Well maintained and no scratches on upper stanchion tubes and lowers are in great condition. No leaks, dust wipers excellent condition. Dual Air, compression, rebound, lockout and gate/blowoff level adjustable. The steerer tube is 7.75” long, non-tapered which means you can use it with tapered and non-tapered frames. Weight is 1760g as shown. $160 to users on this site, just mention it in CL reply. https://austin.craigslist.org/bop/d/austin-rock-shox-reba-race-29/6866079752.html Great fork if your building a steel SS bike with non-tapered HT, came off my Spot Rocker SS. Live SW, work NW.
  7. My German-garaged bike is a Marin Pine Mountain, and I added the PNW dropper last summer. I can only compare it to my Transfer, but it works great every time. Excellent for the price. Only downside is that it's heavy. There is a German version of the same post under a different brand and other countries sell it as Lyne. https://www.lynecomponents.com/external-droppers
  8. Studded tires, Flexstem, and dropbars...carbon of course.
  9. ES-175, nice! Probably 57, 57+ pups. Great choice and extra rain.
  10. No, I wouldn't ride on those bars either. I'd suspend the ends of the bar on something and load it up in the center to see what it will take.
  11. Hey Seth, thank for posting this up. Looks like a blast, and nice to have this option in central TX.
  12. I've been running carbon bars for 11 years across multiple bikes, had countless crashes, but never had one break (chips on the surface too). I may replace them every 5-6 years, but this isn't unusual for other parts on my bikes. I never considered carbon bars having a bling factor, only lightweight and functional. It mentions in the article that both bars are designed with similar ultimate strengths (I think you used the term breaking strength), but each material has different failure modes. Clamps can deform the outer diameter of the carbon bar when overtightened and can cause the weakest area for failure. Once aluminum alloy goes through it's stress/strain proportional limit (rebounds back without deformation), it then goes through its yield strength (bending), strain hardens, and then fatigues out and breaks. The carbon fiber yield strength is so close to it's ultimate strength, the impression is that a failure happens unexpectedly and at a much lower ultimate stress than aluminum. We could go into lattice slip planes of Al, dislocations, propagation, inclusions, but that gets boring.. I think we're all set in our own beliefs and experiences. Ride aluminum. Ride Carbon. Signed, Chuck Yeager- a weight weenie, pro wannabe, weekend warrior
  13. I'll be super general and take a stab at your weight, since it's weight dependent. 150-180lbs 25ish psi, 180-200lbs 30ish psi, 200+lbs 35psi. Rear tire 5psi over the front tire pressure.
  14. My RF carbon cranks had a noticeable tick to it on one of the downstrokes; this was on a 3 week old Pivot Switchblade. I must have disassembled the cranks and chainring interface 3x looking for the tick. Rode through the summer, two weeks at Angelfire, and the subsequent weekend the crank arm finally gave up on my first run at the Flat Creek Enduro. Non-catastrophic failure in the end, but I should have not ignored the 5 month warning.
  15. I've ridden the Nut on my CX bike several times. In fact, I probably have some of my fastest average speeds there on a CX compared to a mountain bike. It's almost a dirt sidewalk, so why not. If I had advice, I'd wear work gloves with a little extra padding between the thumb and index finger. It looks dorky, but cuts down on blisters when riding off-road. Switch between the hoods and drops to level load the fatigue. The main trail and S16 on the BCGB is also possible once you get the hang of it. Bunny hop hop hop.
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