mack_turtle

Does he want a FS bike? Maybe a hardtail would suit him better. Squish is not for everyone.

Cleaning out my house and found this. Bought it fewer than 5 yrs ago when I was dabbling in BMX again. Wore it a few times but never crashed it. Size small. $10 or trade for something interesting.

Don't worry, my bike will be back together after a warranty issue by the end of the week. Surely the weather will clear up for that.

My /our thoughts don't matter, but that's what I told them when I encountered the VCT folks about the bridge. They didn't listen and didn't care.

The 820 is a half-step above a big box stores bike. It's the least amount of bike that Trek can hold their nose and put their name on it. Trek does not even label it a "mountain bike" at all.

Marin Pine Mountain B+ steel rigid bike + Yari fork for under $1K! Might need to sort out the front hub though. They had ridiculous deals on cruisers and commuter type bikes.

Keep hitting "refresh" and you'll see all the info shortly. Wheels were 40-50% off, I think. Mostly road wheels from what I saw. Shoes were all 50% off I think.

a budget hardtail that won't fold in half under you is $750-1000. TheTrek 820 and the like are hybrids that looks like mountain bikes. I worked at one Trek dealer that sold a lot of 820s and they didn't last long. I left that shop and worked for a different Trek dealer that didn't bother to carry 820's because they knew that those customers were better off buying a hybrid. I've never been interested in FSbikes but it looks like starting price for something that's OK is $1500. I too am annoyed by the golfification of mountain bikes. MOST Americans cannot fit $3000 into their budget for a leisure activity without making a fooling debt-inducing decision.

I am at the small Lamar store now: 29"/B+ Yari boost fork, 120mm, steerer has been cut but still plenty long. About $350! Lots of wheels including some Arch MK3, Forte, Mavic, Oval 527, Lots of tools! Drivetrain parts, shifters, Cati brakes, etc. Shimano, giro, and Garneau shoes. Some mountain bikes. A few Marin Pine Mtn rigid B+ bikes. Tubes tubes tubes! Saddles 40% off.

Are both stores still open? Anything worth getting? If I can stock up on 8-speed chains at a discount, I'm in.

Nice, I see some Aeffect cranks for $120 new and the cheesy steel rings are only $15. That'll get me rolling again.

I don't swap rings often. I have a round 32t ring and oval 32 and 34t rings. I'd be just fine with a 32t set-and-forget.

I damaged destroyed the spider on my SLX cranks but the 104 BCD rings I have for it are still good. I'd like to get a new crankset from Shimano or Race Face because I like using Shimano BSA bottom brackets. Shimano has mostly gone to a pointless proprietary asym 4-bolt design, so I am hesitant to do that. Most of the other manufacturers have gone to some sort of DM system. I was thinking about getting a RD Ride cinch crankset with a RF ring. under $125 online for the whole setup and I have a BB for it already. sound like a good idea? general questions: what DM interfaces, if any, are compatible? what DM cranks/ rings are most common and most affordable? pros and cons of different DM systems?

Sometimes being clipped in messes you up. Sometimes not being clipped in messes you up. There's a chance he would have gone down regardless of pedal choice. Perhaps it would have been worse if he were clipped in. Who knows? AllI know is that after 10 years of riding clipped in, riding flats makes me feel like I have wings in comparison. Fewer crashes and gobs more confidence. YMMV. Being a pedal evangelist is a good way to get on the ignore list.

That sucks! Hope he's feeling better soon. Yeah, blame the pedals! Definitely not any sort of rider error. If he was clipped in, he could just float effortlessly over everything.

thanks! I will keep that in mind. I don't know if I want to get M8000 cranks because I'll have to buy new rings for it as well. I have two 104 BCD oval rings that I use so I'll stick with 104 BCD cranks if I can. I am waiting to see how my frame saga turns out first, so that might be a while.

https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/deorext-m8000.html (click on "crankset") I gather that B is boost and the number after is is the number of chainrings. B1 is a single ring boost, B2 is a double ring boost, and the non-lettered 1 and 2 are narrower chainline single and doubles. If you're buying for a bike that does not have boost spacing on the rear hub, stick to non-boost cranks.

Sorted, plz delete.

Traitor Crusade, 52cm medium. $750 http://www.traitorcycles.com/2015/Bikes_Crusade.cfm I purchased this bike new in January of 2018. Used for several gravel races this year. Upgraded components indicated with a *. Gave away the wheels, tires, bars, stem, and cranks. · Traitor Crusade steel frame and fork (same as a Transition Rapture) · Salsa Cowbell 3 handlebar* · Shimano 105 crankset with 172.5mm arms and 39t ring* · Stan's Arch EX rims*, set up tubeless with Panaracer Gravelking tires* · Giant carbon fiber seatpost* · TRP Hylex hydro brakes · Paul Word disc rear hub* with fresh bearings and 16t White Industries freewheel* This bike is smooth and lightweight (for a steel bike). It's been great on mixed-terrain urban riding and gravel racing. It could make a good all-weather commuter. I have not raced cyclocross, but I imagine it would do well on a cross course with some knobbier tires. I am 5'9" and it fits me well. You can put front and rear derailleurs and a full modern shifting drivetrain on this bike, but you would need to change some parts. cracked my mtb frame, so I need the cash more than I need a second bike.

Sold!

Mary Anne!

Most people who ride bicycles, even mountain bikers on trails, don't care about being "serious" enough to buy into fredly accoutrements like fancy shorts, special pedals, and power-measuring devices. They just buy a bike and ride it. People like us who are even familiar with the concept of watts as it applies to riding a bicycle are a tiny sliver of the population.

I really don't give a fuck. You can't quantify fun. Riding flats is not noticably limiting me in any way but I am still having fun with slightly less pucker factor. I am pro-choice regarding pedals, but I don't base my choices on what will give me a KOM over the other local weekend warriors Freds.

I ride a hardtail, with a rigid fork most of the time. Flat pedals work fine for me. It took a few rides, but now that I know what to do, Seth's concerns above are 100% nonsense on my bike. The precieved efficiency gains from riding clipped in were mostly in my head and negated by the additional fun I am having (subjective). If I can't bunnyhop and control the bike without clipping in, that's because I suck. 😝 if my feet fly off flat pedals, I'll get some shoes and pedals that don't suck or learn a little technique, my lack of which has been hidden by years of riding clipped in.