Teamsloan

There will be a contingent of riders present including me.

Just now coming back to this thread a month later. I demo’d the Ripmo after looking at geometry and a fair amount of reading reviews. It’s my first 29 and while I had demo’d many others, this was the first of the newer generation 29ers (long low and slack) that I had ridden. I took it straight to the hill of life trailhead and sent it all the way down. With half of a goofy grin on my face and half a look of terror at how fast I had just shredded that chunky descent. But I wasn’t completely sold until I pointed it back up and climbed to Ed’s bowl/Taint/HOL alternate. Riding around the driveway before the demo did feel a bit weird with the steep seat tube, but out on the trail it all came together. Now I ride to Walnut on it for a lap and I’m completely adapted to the geo. Then I went to Outerbike and Adam Miller let me take out his personal Rascal as long as I agreed to wash it (it was the rainiest, coldest Outerbike they’ve had I think). I loved that bike. I still love my Ripmo, but it’s a close second.

Yup, we’ve been seeing warranty claims on this as well. Cane Creek uses the same mounting style for their eeWings as SRAM but the spline interface on the spindle is a hirth joint is pretty stout. I recommend just going with that. 😉

One other thing to consider. Shimano changes their spindle length when swapping chain lines. So, if you have a non boost bike, you have to get a non-boost crankset. With SRAM they make one spindle length (well two for fat bikes) and adjust the chainline by the offset of their chainrings. This means that you can swap SRAM cranks from a non-boost bike to a boost bike or the other way around or even to the super boost bike. 6mm offset for non-boost, 3mm for boost, and 0 offset for super boost.

Most of the time, I really like Shimano‘s way of installing their cranks from a durability standpoint but I will say the Sram method is way easier with a torque wrench. Minor thing I know, but never liked the process of torquing one and then flipping over to the other bolt and torquing it down. Proper torque is key with crank installs.

No, but trail work is happening!

That Ranger is amazing, but I’d go with the Rascal first. Do not pass up the opportunity to demo a Ripley either, the Ibis DW-link climbs better than anything else I’ve ridden.

+1 for Orange Seal Endurance sealant. Been using it for years with almost zero flats. The two times I’ve even noticed it doing it’s job were decent sized thorns. So, either I never get any punctures, or this stuff works. It smells WAY better too. 😛 It’s only failed two times for me. One was a really bad pinch flat right at the bead, and the other was a tire cut about 1cm long up in Bentonville which needed the help of a bacon strip.

That’s the perfect example of what an out of aligned hanger does.

If your tires look like that it means you've been riding correctly. That tire has about had it though.

I don’t know of anything official stating how many threads, but there’s no way I would ride that.

I ended up contacting Chris King and they were able to locate some. They sent me an invoice. Rare parts are expensive! 😛

I misunderstood what you meant at first. I thought you were saying the fun bolts needed to be turned down. 😛 i’ll search the part number.

The whole point for fun bolts was to have a bolt on hub for standard 10mm dropouts. Are you sure that’s right?

I have an ISO disc rear hub that I’m trying to rehab for a singlespeed project. Does anyone have any of the “fun bolts” lying around? I can’t find anyone selling them anywhere. Also need a new HG drive shell as the current one is severely notched from the previous owners cassette. I figure it’s a long shot, but anyone have anything?

Might also need to check if the chain needs an extra link. Sometimes moving a chain over from a different bike will require this.

Anyone claimed this yet? If not, I’ll take it.

Avoid the NX, if you want to save money but still have good shifting go with GX. Differences between GX and the upper tiers are limited to materials for weight savings. the NX doesn’t have the rigidity in the parallelogram the GX and above has which reflects in the quality of the shifting. But if you only want it as a temporary back up, then it might be fine enough. and always remember, the derailer is the slave, the shifter is the master. Put your money in the shifter and you won’t regret it.

Ah, that’s why they’re collecting dust. I was thinking they might be worn but don’t need them. Thanks though.

DHF or DHR? I would take a DHF in 2.5.

Stan’s is the standard, but you really do have to stretch it. I’ve found that most tubeless rim tape is this way. It REALLY helps to have a truing stand. And always make the hole for the valve stem with a hot pick…like a pro.

As someone in the industry, I couldn’t agree more than the above. Unless of course you can find a steal on the used market…but that’s not really happening these days either.

You’re so “Enduro” now! …love these things.

Only way to really know is to drop the fork and look, but it looks normal to me at least from these views.

But where would one ever find such a large chunk of limestone like that?