mack_turtle

The Expanse. So good! Need to go find the fifth season because we just plowed through the first four.

it can never hurt to put an alignment tool to "adjust" the hanger. if the hanger is truly bent, i would not use a tool to "bend it back." unfortunately, it's difficult to tell how bent is too bent. if your shifting feels off, it's a good idea to check the alignment as one peice of the puzzle. if it's clear to the naked eye that it's bent, it might be too late. gearboxes: what's taking so long?!

is there some sort of pre-registry we're supposed to sign up? or should I just start riding at 8 and show someone my Strava segments when I limp back from whatever my body can take for the day? what happened to the image of the shirt design?

someone recently told me that "most bike shops don't have a derailer alignment tool" and I was like 🤯. I don't think it's true. Everyone who rides a lot should be familiar with this process and know how to use this tool. good to hear there's an affordable option. I made my own but I really have no use for it. fun fact: on most conventional bikes, replacing a bent derailer hanger—assuming it's beyond straightening—is not enough! you always need to put a tool on it to ensure that it's aligned with the vertical plane of the bike, or your shifting will continue to be crappy. There's no garauntee that a new hanger will be aligned properly just because it's new.

try this form: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSeQFjFhyVnK7hGLRnw9sGv6qX_rQIHXEhhhGE_AqPNVOiaJ-A/viewform Your request will go to several bike shops in the region who can respond if they can help out. I'll bet that most bike shops have a handful of such nipples if they take the time to look around.

All gone.

I carry a tube, but the plug takes ten seconds and works almost every time. removing the wheel and tire to replace a tube takes a lot longer. I don't even have to get off the bike to shove a plug in a puncture.

I'm carrying one of these. I like how self-contained and non-pokey it is. plus, you don't have to buy special proprietary replacement seals like the Dart system. just shove whatever strips you want in there. I've used it on a few other riders' bikes and on mine with success. https://ride.lezyne.com/products/tubeless-kit I've also found that a puncture that won't seal is sometimes due to insufficient sloshiness of the sealant in the tire. basically, it's dried up. I've rejuvenated old sealant on the side of the trail by squirting some water into the tire, shaking it, and reinflating. I also carry a tiny bottle of Berryman Tire Seal'r everywhere just in case.

Yikes! Has the manufacturer acknowledged that problem? Seems like a major oversight to me.

I need to replace the bearings in my Industry Nine 1-1 driver. the job seems to require a special tool, but it's possible that other bearing tools will work. It also has an oddball double-row bearing that might be hard to source. anyone know who might have those in town?

And it's also mint. See what we did there?

Avid / SRAM always seemed like too much hassle to own for me. Maybe they've gotten better, but i hated dealing with Juicy and Elixir models. However, SRAM made/makes parts available to rebuild calipers and levers, whereas Shimano does not. TRP has some nice compromises. Great braking, easy to service, some parts available. If money was no concern, I'd switch to Hope brakes for serviceability.

Sick burn.

Woo hoo!

When I got my DL, it was just a better means to take my bike places to ride. Kids these days!

Probably old farm route for Seawright when it was a ranch or whatever she did with it. There's plenty of old dams, walls, and crossings like that throughout the park.

The tire is touching the frame: on which side? If the tire is shifting to the left and touching the NDS chainstay, that's the right side slipping. If the tire touches the right side, thats the left side shifting under breaking.

Sliders like the IRD, Paragon Machine Works, and the ones Kona uses are generally trouble-free. I've seen a lot of those older On One frames with track ends, so those particular sliders are new to me. Friction paste can never hurt. You could also ask On One of they have a particular torque in mind. The rather large bolts on Paragon machine works are 17 to 19 ft pounds. Peddling and braking forces can both throw the wheel out of alignment.

I doubt the bolts on the sliders are coming loose if you're putting any reasonable amount of torque on them. Remove the wheel and measure the space between the dropouts as it should be nearly exactly 135 mm. This assumes you're also using a 135 mm rear hub. If there's a discrepancy between the space between the dropouts and the width of the hub, it cuz could cause things to "want" to shift. What's the condition of the interface between the frame and the dropout insert? Is it smooth or is it rough? If it's smooth it could stand to be sanded down or have friction paste but between those two parts. I have experimented with putting gears on a bike but I think it's safe to say that I've dealt with every single speed option on the planet.

The same generation that gave out all those "participation trophies" to today's youger adults are now running bicycle companies. Boomers ruin everything.

I need this shirt

I heard you guys like high-pivot bikes. I found one that I like.

Yes you can.

High Roller II

Finally rode my bike today. Definitely need to see a doc because I feel like crap, but at least I found my stoke again for now. I'm not convinced that I need a fancy squishy bike, but something with stability that inspires me to push the bike harder might be nice. This front tire is not helping either. This seems to happen to all my front tires.