Teamsloan

I mean, it's Helvetica. How do you screw that up?? This is what graphic designers do for fun... Kerning Game

That's not a typo, just a massive kerning disaster. Not limited to those letters either. Awful typography.

I feel bad. I won't need the rim for a while (holding on to it to build it up as soon as my son gets bigger). I'm sure when the time comes I can find something else. It's yours, if you want it!

Elden Peak, Flagstaff AZ

I think you gave that to me.

If you're just looking for a rim. Look at the DT Swiss EX471. It's the rim Aaron Gwin famously rode a World Cup DH race on after he flatted shortly after leaving the starting gate. He bombed the rest of the course on this rim and it held up. I've had it on my back wheel for a couple of years now and it's been bomb proof. It's wide enough to mount the wider 26er tires that are still available and it's not super heavy at all. Gwin's rim after the race...

It fits my Maxxis ADvantage 26x2.4, but you have to shove on it a bit due to the width.

Remember, cold front around these parts means it'll dip down to lower 80's.

Charlie posted a video of the creek at flood stage on Sun reporting that the trail was going to need a good bit of time. I'm really surprised.

I thought it was a no go and made other plans. This weather is messing with my ability to predict WC conditions.

Dang it.

I've been wrong before, but I just don't see how it could be ridable this evening. I'm sure there are parts that are okay, but not enough to go for a ride there. I don't have any first hand knowledge of the conditions though. So basically this is a long winded "I don't know".

Is it wrong that I spent most of that video watching for your handlebars to snap off? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sweet Monster colors!

You saved it. Welcome to the forum. I still question your saddle choice though.

I think this is also an interesting takeaway from the article... "Are carbon parts more susceptible to failure than alloy ones if they suffer damage? Renthal: Yes and no. Yes, as carbon is obviously a softer material than aluminum, so damage can occur due to direct contact with rocks or the ground more easily. No, as aluminum has a grain structure that can propagate cracks if surface damage occurs. Carbon fiber doesn’t exhibit this type of crack propagation. We fatigue-tested aluminum and carbon bars with very similar surface damage. The fatigue life of the aluminum handlebar was reduced due to surface damage, but the carbon bar was not affected. That said, we still recommend replacing any carbon or aluminum product that has been damaged."

I see no bike in this picture, therefore it is not a random bike picture. Fail. Thanks for playing.

Interesting read on the subject. https://mbaction.com/the-carbon-conundrum/ Seth, you should definitely ride an aluminum bar if it makes you feel like you can shred harder. If your AL bar fails on you, you should definitely move to a Ti handlebar. Then if your Ti bar fails, then you should definitely move on to a solid section of cold forged steel rebar. 😄

Yes, they do. It's cheap and a little goes a long way. FWIW, the hardtail I mentioned on the 2nd page of this thread is a 2007 Scott Scale carbon that I bought used back in 2008. I bought it stupid cheap because the previous owner dinged the frame on the downtube towards the bottom bracket. There's a cm-long deep gash. I've ridden the crap out of that thing since then. Lots of long BCGB rides, Lake Georgetown, a few Thumper Thursdays, Years of R&I's, and 2.3 Enchilada Buffets. That gash has never grown, changed, bubbled the clear coat around it...nothing. It wasn't until a couple of years ago (8yrs of riding by me) that I noticed a new crack on the seat stay that was starting to flake the clear coat (I blame Brushy Creek). I lightly sanded it and covered it with clear nail polish. 😛 I still ride it occasionally, but it's been retired from chunky gnar rides. Between that experience, my two CF handlebars, and Santa Cruz's insane carbon frame testing video I don't really question the integrity of carbon fiber unless it's been purchased off Ali-Express. Even then I'll let my son ride it.

That Hadley bolt sure is simple and easy to use as long as you have the matching hex. Nothing to get caught on a rock, and it has that nifty bit on the drive side that fits in the dropout to keep it still while you wrench on the non-driveside end to snug it up. It's only two pieces of metal and they're expertly made. If the DT handles have broken on you twice now, why get another one?

If he's the son of god, then ask him to list out his lineage. If he can't trace it back to David, then we know...and it will keep him busy while you pedal away.

I have one on the bike. Ordered it directly from Balle Racing just a couple years ago. Are they not selling it anymore?

I just did this two weeks ago. Definitely the best way to do B-ville. Our house was maybe 100yds from one of the Slaughter Pen trailheads. 3 Days was not enough though. I went from only riding the R&I once a week to 3 straight days of riding. My body was done on day 3 at Coler. I'll be back though.

I might stop by. Central Austin looks much drier than up here in N.Austin.

What's the tongue weight limit for you vehicle Seth? 4 Enduro bikes @ about 30lbs each + 60+lb rack = 180lbs+ My Outback's limited at 200lbs and that's calculated for a trailer, not an unsupported load cantilevering off the hitch. There's no way my car should ever have 4 bikes loaded on the hitch. A 4 tray rack is a really long lever and even small bounces can magnify the load on the end of it. So, while it's parked it might just be below the weight limit, but hitting a dip in the road even at 15mph could send the effective load at the hitch way over. Curt even states in their installation instructions to not mount unsupported loads to the hitch without using bracing straps attached to the top of the vehicle or it voids their warranty.