Mattlikesbikes

I think somewhere between opening the box they came in and the end of the first ride.

My last used bike came with Avid/Sram brakes and they were the first thing to go on Craigslist. Hope's FTW.

My son is doing great on his 16" bike and is hell on wheels. Starting to look for his next bike. I like the MTB like styling of the Cannondale Trail or Cujo. Looking for at least one hand brake. In need of work/repair is fine. Color is not important.

First big question, fiberglass or shotcrete. As a civil eng, I am a fan of concrete but the price is averaging double or more for concrete. I cant get a lot of info on fiberglass except from the guys that sell fiberglass... We have a small area, so looking at 10-12 x 20ft. We are ok with partial above ground, as the site has a slight slope, so the far end will already need to be 18" off the current ground surface.

When I was in college my folks moved to Columbus, I spent a very boring summer there and explored everywhere you could ride within a few hours. I don't recall if it was at all memorable, most of Ohio wasn't.

Flat Rock, Whole Enchilada, Lake Lawtonka, Parts of the CT, Kickapoo, Vultures Knob.

It works unbelievably well, though doesn't buy much more range than current 1X setups. But I get that range with less significant jumps between gears, less giant cassette cogs, and less chain. It does have more drag than a simple crank. I find I ride in the normal gear (24t) 90% of the time (also almost no drag). I only drop the hammer (1.6X or 38T) on flats and downhills. What I like most is the ability to in an instant use the planetary gear to pack on speed without spinning, only to dump the gear immediately when I get to a technical spot. While I rarely use the Hammer, it is my most common shift, as I almost leave the rear alone for most stuff. I'd been looking at one of the 9spd giant cassette options, just to get a 40T on the rear (instead of my current 36T), but found in my parts bin the 22t hammer ring, so I'll swap the 24 for the 22 and get roughly the same low range as a 24/40 with my 22/36. This bike has initially built up in 2009, but got a suspension and cockpit upgrade last year, so it feels pretty modern.

I need a slightly different set. So all yours

Are those the caps that take a 135 qr to a 142x10? If so, I'm interested. Got an old 240ss hub I was looking to move to 142

Took the whole suspension apart along with the ctd remote, finally figured it out. Just loosening hadn't been enough. The lower pivot of the Milkmoney is a bushing not a bearing. Bolts out, no clamping pressure on the bushing and the problem went away. So full cleaned everything and rotated the bushing 90*, reassembled it seems fixed, though if I over tighten the bolts it comes back. Dial back the torque by about 1# and silent. Everything felt like sticky seal or ctd remote. Glad it wasn't, I hate tearing open shocks. Nothing to see here.

Will check, but function is normal other than a hard return on the last 2-3 mm.

When summer comes and Barton Creek dries up, the last few puddles turn into snake hotspots. That's the extent of where I've seen snakes in ATX when riding. Houston is a different story. I used to see water moccasins all the time at Ant Hills and Memorial park.

When I compress the rear the shock rebounds but not all the way to full eye to eye. If I lift the bike by the saddle the frame makes a popping noise as the shock finishes returning to full length. I've checked all the pivot points, none of them is binding. It seems internal to the shock. It's a fox with CTD and the remote. I'll try disconnecting the remote to see if it isn't getting stuck there. Doesn't happen with rebound turned full slow, but does under normal rebound settings. Any thoughts on why a shock wouldn't be fully returning on it's own? The weight of the frame can't be enough to be compressing it.

So most likely nobody here is going to have experience with your year undisclosed mavic road wheels being run tubeless. But the intertoobs has thoughts on setting up newish Mavic tubeless - https://road.cc/content/forum/209279-converting-mavic-wheels-tubeless End of the day, I think a tire that wide, on a road rim (inside width of 15mm I think), run at a low pressure (less than 40), is going to have issues tubeless. But still, I would set it up tubeless, tape and valve, and run it for awhile at 50psi to see. Mfg recommends a low of 40, and that is on a 19+mm width rim. If it doesn't burp and has no problems slowly drop pressure.

I've got the same, running 32c hybrid tires, with tubes, but stans in the tubes. Nice to know the crest will take a 40c nano tubeless. May have to try.

Anyone here in the pool building biz? Starting to think about a pool and have questions.

Look at the BP MS150 Day 2 route, particularly between COTA and Bastrop. While the actual route is paved, there was a LOT of gravel hitting the route on cross streets. Again, not ride out your door gravel, but a 20-30min drive away.

I've got a 2013 tundra crewmax with a camper and it's been great. For long haul trips I use the Kuat, as the bed us full up. But for local/TX trips racks in the bed. I've got lights, similar to the taco photo above, so loading after dark is easy. Also camps in a pinch, so that's nice. For security, I have a power tailgate lock and I lock the bikes.to the rack inside and with a cable..so even if they broke the glass, it's going to take effort to get the bikes out the window as the tailgate still won't open. Gas sucks, and the 5.7l engines all suffer from cam tower oil leaks. Not bad enough to pay $2k to fix, but annoying that Toyota still hasn't sorted it out. Rides like a car and is very comfortable. All that said, I'd planned to replace it in 60k miles (200k) but instead of another truck I'll probably go tall van. That is, unless a great hybrid truck is available in 2-3 years. I'd sure love my daily 20-25 miles to be on electric.

I'm about to build up a new wheelset for myself and while I've entertained the idea of carbon for my road bike, I see zero benefit on my Mtb. I'll be building Flow MK3, which have done well on my rigid SS. My experience is that an Al rim has to be super tweaked to not be truable if you restart tension from zero. If you don't take tension to zero, a bad tweak will never come out. For the time and price I'll stick with Al Stan's.

I've not made it out yet, and CB owes me a tour. But I've got a standing mtb date with my wife every other Friday and trying to figure out if Brushy is an option this week. She can clean most everything at Walnut.

Remember kids, cable locks are good for securing your wheels or seatpost, not your whole bike. Most cables can be cut like warm butter. Hardened steel chain if you really love what you own. If it wasn't so damn hot here, I would love to keep a pitbull in the camper of my truck guarding my bike!

Since Jeff Kendall Weed is the new it boy in YouTube bike videos this one has a great Vintage coverage -

Just a reminder, keep your serial numbers. I've got a cloud folder with pictures of all bikes (and major parts) and the serial # on the BB. It makes getting stuff back WAY quicker with the PD.

I disagree. Well maintained and ridden as designed this bike should go a long time. Mechanical v brakes last forever. 8spd lasts forever. Updated/well serviced suspension is durable. Keep an eye on rear end welds and the bearings and ride it. The issue in Austin is that bikes just are not made for Austin. Coker and crowd ran these old Racerx's as all mountain bikes and not as the XC bikes Titus intended. That took it's toll on a lot of them. Don't Huck it and there is no reason it won't go another 10yrs. BUT go ahead and buy another bike.

Which Chi carbon are you using? I was looking at Farsport, having build up a bunch of their rims for road wheels.