RedRider3141

Bump to 100 obo.

One of the best things I did on my current (33yo) and previous (53yo) homes before getting them painted was clean up the coax and phone. Looks so much better!

Lots of different lock washers, most are garbage and a bandaid on a Fastener/joint issue. Split washers (shown in the article) are the worst kind garbage. I've been lurking on this thread waiting for the experienced SS riders to comment. I agree, sounds like braking force is the issue here. Motorcycles from the 60s/70s use a very similar chain tensioner bolt but rely solely on the rear axle (~17mm Dia) torqued to 40-60 ftlbs. Adding friction by removing/scuffing paint and using friction paste is a great idea in these smaller bolted joints with high loads.

What color?

I'd love to see your homemade Jig! Share some pics!

Obligatory staged photo for my desktop background.

Is that a real ad that got generated on your Social Media?!?!

Internal rim width = 40mm Tire size 27.5 x 2.8

Tubeless NOOB question. How low of a pressure do I need to worry about needing some sort of insert? I've been experimenting with pressures. Since getting the new bike. I'm currently in the high teens (18-19psi) but might try lower.

I recently upgraded my entry level 1 1/8 straight steerer, QR 10mm fork to a Manitou Markhor. It's available in a variety of configurations of wheel size, steerer and axle, usually for less than $300. I have the 27.5, straight steerer and 9mm QR. I have a few rides on it and it's simple but I'm happy with it.

Don't send me questions, I'm just the messenger stirring up conversation to pressure me into signing up...

Peddlers was 100% last night. Some of the water run off areas looked a little damp but the trail was dry to super dry everywhere else.

SOLD

I'm going the wrong way I'm approaching 40 this year and just embraced 100% Hard Tails... Maybe I'll regret that in a few years. I forget who said it here but I agree: HT after a ride: I'm sore but less tired FS after a ride: I'm not sure but I'm worn out

Nearly new Shimano MT65 wheels, 15mm axle front, 135mm quick release (qr) rear. Comes with spoke wrench. Unmounted currently, recently used on my Mission for <100 miles. Asking $120 OBO Description from CRC: Looking for an affordable, attractive wheel that can withstand rocks, roots, ruts, and creeks? Not only will the Shimano WH-MT65 Wheels turn heads out on the trail but they will keep you rolling forever, by combining durability, lightweight and consistency. Straight pull spokes and 2-cross lacing increase torsional rigidness and overall spoke life. The MT65 Wheels feature the signature Shimano center locking rotor mounting system, which is versatile, fast rolling, lightweight, and quick and easy to mount. The MT65’s are not limited to center locking, so if you happen to prefer six bolt, adapters can be purchased. Whether you are a racer, weekend warrior, or casual trail cruiser, the MT65 are a bargain. Features: 15mm E-thru system for increased torsional rigidity Increased lateral rigidness for better tracking in all conditions Patent pending thin extrusion with T-nut reinforced alloy rim Straight spokes and 2-cros lacing for increased torsional rigidness and spoke life 24 butted spokes front & rear Shimano quality proven angular contact bearings Center lock rotor mount system to the Hub quickly and effectively Weight: 800g (front), 990g (rear), 1790g (pair)

Edit: SOLD Selling my 2007 Diamondback Mission 3 (Medium). I've had the bike since 2011 and I've been through/ replaced almost everything on it. Bike is in great shape and the 6" of suspension is smooth. Currently setup with: Shimano 1x10 Drivetrain (Deore Shifter, XT Derailleur) Fox Talus 150mm Fork. Works smooth and can be set at 150/130/110 Fox RP23 Shock, Rebuilt with low hours RaceFace Chester Pedals Shimano Brakes Spare Original Front Wheel for a QR axle. (Rhyno lite wheel). Forte wheel is 15mm thru axle. I also have a nearly new(<100 miles) wheelset (MT-65) that I can include but was hoping so sell separately. Dropper is pictured but not included. I have it listed on FB marketplace for $600 but was hoping to get $500. I can include the wheel set for $600.

Tried that, the spacer in the center bottoms out before the bearings seat fully. Yeah, 2 threads seemed sketch. I ended up going back to 1 spacer on the drive side and 2 on the other with the Shimano sprocket with built in chain ring spacers and it seems OK, I thought I tried that combo but I guess not.

So I experimented with the BB spacers which were originally working against my issue and with another front sprocket with a built in spacer. I was able to move the sprocket ~1/8" closer to the frame and move my straight chain line from the #5 sprocket to the #6. A short road test shows the "clicking" from the front sprocket wanting to eject the chain is gone. However, my left (non-drive) side BB is only able to thread in just under 2 full threads. Is that enough? I feel like it's asking for it to loosen up/creek? Is there a minimum engagement for BB halves? I haven't tried a longer chain yet, it's not tight in the lowest (biggest diameter) gear. But there is definitely room in the smallest to go longer. I'm waiting on some 11spd master links.

I've been watching demos for a while now and hardtails are never in the demo fleets.

I still think carrying a single Hex-Key would be a good option as a back-up.

I've seen poorly designed fastener joints on MTBs from time to time. Compromises such as material (weight) and limited distance can make for some high stressed joints with improperly designed fasteners due to limitations. I'm not faulting the designers. You can't always fit the "correct" screw where you need it, especially where you're primary goal is suspension geometry. I have a rear suspension bolt that is way too short for it's relatively large diameter and there isn't any bolt stretch you need to maintain compression. Because bike frames can only be so wide you can't always get the length you need. Even with Blue (medium) Loctite it comes loose now and again. I don't like using red (high strength) Loctite unless absolutely needed/specified. It can be very difficult to remove, often at the expense of the bolt. https://www.cpgnation.com/how-to-measure-bolt-stretch-for-proper-torque/

The one I have is about 1/2" shorter than the Bondhus tool I have. The newer version looks very short in comparison. Have you considered just getting one L-key of the right size and carrying it in addition to the multi-tool you already have?

I have a Topeak Hexus II, I think it may have recently gone out of production and replaced with Hexus X. It's held-up really well for me over 6 years, no rust, and has a decent amount of tools. It does include an 8mm but as an adaptor onto the 6mm which isn't uncommon on many tools. I wouldn't call it heavy or light, but I've never cared, so not a good judge either. As for length of tools... yeah there has been some suspension bolts I've had trouble reaching because access was through a sprocket. I haven't seen many swiss-army style multi-tools that are any better with regards to tool length, it's an easy way for them to save weight/cost. https://everydaymtb.com/topeak-hexus-ii-review/ Maybe a T-Style Tool?: https://store.fixitsticks.com/collections/kits/products/compact-ratcheting-multi-tool

How do y'all with internal cable routing keep your cables quiet?