AntonioGG

Sealant is not a pain at all compared to tubes.

Specialized does have the guidelines, but they don't tell you about them on their marketing info or at the bike store. I just recently bought a Roubaix (rains 4 weeks ago my bad), and subsequently learned that if I happen to ever go to northern France or southern Belgium and ride on the famed cobbles, my warranty would be void, because the Roubaix is intended for smooth paved surfaces only. Apparently someone forgot to tell Peter Sagan that! https://media.specialized.com/support/collateral/0000093943.pdf

I'm starting another thread for the bike ride condition ratings. I think it's interesting enough.

We need pretty titanium boutique bike builds so we can hang them as artwork in the living room.

IEEE still uses 802.xxxx So what body has adopted the wifi naming convention you mentioned? I'm in the enterprise industry and everyone including our customers still use that notation, but I'm not involved in consumer level products so I'm curious what other standards there are that manufacturers can rely on and consumers can trust to mean the same in one brand vs the other. Back on topic: Specialized does have the guidelines, but they don't tell you about them on their marketing info or at the bike store. I just recently bought a Roubaix (rains 4 weeks ago my bad), and subsequently learned that if I happen to ever go to northern France or southern Belgium and ride on the famed cobbles, my warranty would be void, because the Roubaix is intended for smooth paved surfaces only. Apparently someone forgot to tell Peter Sagan that! https://media.specialized.com/support/collateral/0000093943.pdf

Same here, my wall space is very limited so mine are hanging from the ceiling, on hooks for my bikes and my boys' bikes, and on hoists for my wife's bikes.

Saw CBD stuff at BSS.

as far as I know the trails are rideable so there's no excuse for all this punning.

I wear size 11 on most any other shoes. I just ordered a size 11 510. Hopefully they fit OK.

What does sizing run like in these shoes? Compare to something like Nike running shoes?

Having seen the picture of your worn out chain, I bet my "too worn out but good as spares" cleats are better than what you have. Can't make the R&I but I'll put some in the Shinerider parts bag (I'll get it to you one of these days...)

My wife does GIS so she helped me trace it down. It looks like it comes from ESRI. Where they got it from, who knows!

Hmmm, that sounds like my last attempt at the EB. I called for a pick-up after City Park.

Manual like a boss!

What mack_turtle said. $400 included shipping and all the stuff I couldn't service myself (Talas + Damper) as well as all the service parts new CSU and oil.

Thans @mack_turtle. Yes, this was a new term for me introduced by the BSS mechanic that diagnosed my horribly loud creak. It's rare that I throw in the towel and take my bike in but this one had frustrated me to no end. From looking through search results on this topic, it seems like once people know about the source of this creak, they keep on using the fork without worry. It's also apparent to me from looking for other complaints that Rock Shox seems to be a bit more exposed to this issue. The other bit of info that popped out at me is that a lot of people go with retention fluids from Loctite to eliminate the problem. My understanding is that the problem is fretting. My fork is now 5 years old. I also have a 9 year old Fox Talas that never showed this problem up until the point that the Kashima coating wore off and forced me to replace the uppers (full rebuild by Fox = $400, expensive basically it's a new fork now). For this Sid XX, I'll try the $10 fix of the fluid and/or live with it until I get rid of the bike. I do not like the feel of this fork compared to my Fox forks.

I ended up ordering 640. It has lower viscosity and longer cure time which makes me think will penetrate better than 638 or 680. Plus you can buy a small 10mL tube pretty cheaply instead of an expensive 50mL tube of the other stuff.

You bastards! LOL!! Had me going.

I was wondering if anyone here has fixed a creaky CSU--either at the steerer or stanchions--with retaining loctite and whether you prefer one type or another. Pinkbike has posts of people using 638, but it seems like 680 may be even better with a longer cure time to give it time to work itself in. Any recommendations from folks with experience with retaining compounds would be appreciated.

Totally looks like a birch log, a snake coming off it, and one coiled to the right.

+1 on the oval chainrings. My answers on the poll include road and gravel/cx. I'm only 1x or SS for off-road now. I love my 1:1 ratio on my road bike for hitting things like Smokey Valley or The High Rd.

I'd prefer newest first.

Bike stand instead of rack: https://austin.craigslist.org/bop/d/cedar-park-bike-rack-stand-for-9-bikes/6859887428.html

1/2" cold rolled? Or is it hollow?

I have this (must be primal) urge to build a bridge. I bought some wood and lag bolts and have been consulting this website http://mathemati.ca/dia_21.html I have nothing to bridge over in my yard, but I'm building it. I'd love to build one for Thumper at some point. Which hardware store do you frequent? At least we could get you some gift cards to replace tools and buy materials.