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Everything posted by schoolie

  1. How old's your KM? If it's old enough to run 135/100QR, I've got a wide wheelset you could borrow or buy for cheap. They're a little beat up, but good enough to see if you like it.
  2. Here's my old setup: Rider: 190lbs Rims: 35mm internal Tires: 29x2.4 Pressure: ~22 front, 25 rear Bike: Steel hardtail (Karate Monkey) Riding: Pretty much anything. no huge hucks or anything, but lots of chunk (3lap dragonslayer, double down at brushy), and moderate drops (2-3 ft) Loved the setup. I rode the same bike on mellower terrain (midwest) for about a year with narrow rims, and the wide rims made a noticeable difference in stability, comfort, and grip. Never tried inserts, so I can't compare 🙂
  3. I experienced it on a trip to England one time. I was on a work trip, and the company I was visiting had some guys who ride, so they took me out. We did a 10-20 mile ride from village to village, weaving around through dirt roads, paths through fields and sheep pastures,, etc. A lot of the fences between property had steps over them where the paths crossed. The coolest were the old stone fences, with steps built right in via stones turned sideways and sticking out. Throw your bike over your shoulder, climb over, and you were on your way :). I remember thinking how cool it was to be able to ride to the next town over, stop at a pub, and ride back without spending much time at all on the road. Especially for a country with European population density.
  4. That's a good deal on a great little light.
  5. Found it, but it's only 350mm length. Let me know if you still want it, but I'm guessing it won't work for you, sorry!
  6. Pretty sure I've still got the rigid post that came on my stache... I'll have a look tomorrow and let you know!
  7. We should talk. I've been mapping out basically the same thing. Not sure when I'll get to do it, but there's potential for a pretty epic ride.
  8. It's a little tricky, since there's no adjustment. I had to print a couple before I got the beam in the right spot. If anyone else has a new model Fox Flux helmet, I'd be happy to give it a shot. If you're into CAD/3D printing, I'll send you the file to tweak it and try it out.
  9. I've been running two niteriders for a while now. One on the helmet (950, narrow beam) and one on the bars (1200, wider beam). The weight on the helmet is borderline, but as long as the cinch dial is snug, it doesn't bother me too much. I also 3D printed a sexy mount for it, so it's lighter and not sticking up so high. I really like the convenience of the all in one Luminas. I used to have lights with separate batteries, and there's just so much less to keep track of now 🙂 Although Tip has me thinking... might try to rig a side mount like that up someday. Looks pretty trick.
  10. Bummer. Tried my luck and just got MX6s. You win 🙂
  11. Another happy Time user here. I've got a couple pairs of the older Aliums, which have been bulletproof, and a newer version with the square rails (also no problems). I love the float, engagement, etc. I'm thinking about getting a pair of the platform pedals they released recently as well. The only issue is it's harder to swap bikes with your buddy since no one else runs Time's, but that may not actually be an issue... lol.
  12. Ah, my bad. It's not a wrench, it's three dots, and only in the web version, not mobile:
  13. There's an option to crop your ride. Click on the wrench, then crop.
  14. Was it with an owner? If not I bet someone would really like to know you saw it! Cool bird!
  15. Just confirming, can this rack break down to carry just a single bike? Based on the ad I'm guessing not, but just wanted to make sure...
  16. +1. I've got a wheel that I've done this to at least 3 times. It takes a little longer for the sealant to stop seeping from a new tire install, but other than that no issues.
  17. This thread definitely need more bikes carrying things:
  18. Yep! Rode DD W-E on Tuesday. It works pretty well as an up. Probably a little easier (at least more consistent) than the original line with the erosion as it is now. My first impression was that it flows better too. Haven't gone E-W to try it as a down yet.
  19. +1 I had a creak "somewhere up front" a couple years ago. Every time I'd ride the bike I'd think "better check that out when I get home, my stem's probably loose or something." Of course, I'd forget about it until the next ride. Then this happened: I'm more diligent about chasing down creaks now!
  20. I'll definitely admit to riding it both ways, and it's fun in either direction. Definitely more dangerous as an entrance though, I always ease up and watch a bit before hitting it so I know there's no one coming from under the bridge, but there's not a great way to tell if anyone's coming from the left on the lower Picnic X line towards the bridge. Same 🙂
  21. I know exactly what you're talking about. I'd say fork deflection under braking is even more noticeable on the rigid fork on my Karate Monkey, since there's no telescoping motion to confuse your eyes about what's really happening. It's pretty crazy how much things move around under load on a bike. I'd say it's mostly B. Bushing fit/alignment to the stanchions is important, and any clearance or misalignment due to bending causes the bushings to "stick" to the stanchions more than when things are perfectly lined up. There's definitely a bit of A too, since seal design in the air spring (and damper to a lesser extent) has an impact on initial breakaway force of the fork. Higher end forks often have tighter tolerances on the bushings, so there's less room for things to move around. Rebuild services like Push Industries also offer to replace your bushings with ones selected to fit your stanchions exactly, instead of the random distribution that come from the factory (at least used to, haven't paid attention in a while). This gets the "undeflected" alignment as good as it can be. Once things get loaded up and start bending, the bushings are forced against the stanchions, making it harder for the fork to slide. Imagine compressing the fork with a load directly inline with the fork's travel - there's theoretically no load on the bushings, so you're only overcoming the friction of the seals. Now twist the front wheel real hard and do it again - the bushings are loaded up by the flex of the fork, so the fork feels stiffer. This is a very valid answer, depending on how/where you like to ride. I run a 2.6 rekon on i35 rims on my KM, and it's a pretty good option if you're not trying to be the fastest guy through the rough stuff.
  22. Yes, it changes the geometry. but that's not necessarily bad, it's just different than the manufacturer's design. Generally speaking when you increase travel (axle-crown distance is what really matters, but they're closely related), you slacken the head angle and raise the BB. Reach goes down a bit, and stack goes up a bit, but that can easily be compensated by swapping stem/spacers, etc. Slacker head angle is generally more stable at speed, but can be "floppy" at low speed. Eventually, if you add enough travel you'll void the frame warranty. I'm pretty sure that's because the increased HTA applies a bigger bending moment to the head tube, potentially overloading it.
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