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skinned elbows

Long time listener fist time caller

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Been lurking site since mojo times and decided to slide in the mix..

 

I rode a '05 Gary fisher Marlin until this year and upgraded to a '20 Stumpjumper ST alloy base model back in April, love it..

 

So here's my question..

I have some forward petal slack I want to take out and was wanting to upgraded the hub assuming that will fix it, but damn they make it confusing on compatibility...not sure if I can just replace a piece of the hub or get whole new one .

 

The stock rear hub is listed as:

Specialized sealed cartridge bearing 12x148mm thru-axle, 32h

 

I would like to know what upgrade is available without having to change out wheel.

 

Oh and I got a sram powerspline bb and was curious on compatible upgrades for that as well

 

Thanks in advance for the help

Danny

 

 

 

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welcome!

is this your bike?

I highly doubt there is a worthwhile freehub upgrade for that wheel. OEM wheels rarely even have replacement freehubs available if you blow one up (which is quite common). so if anything about that hub fails, you're SOL. I'd check with a Specialized dealer to be certain, but the wheel is basically disposable. that totally sucks though.

it would probably not be practical or cost-effective to replace just the hub, but a new rear wheel with a nicer hub might be wise. check out the following:

  • Industry Nine has an option that uses I9's "budget" 1/1 hub instead of their bling Hydra hubs. the Trail wheels have a narrow rim that would pair well with your 2.3 tires, but you might want the Enduro version if you're going to use fatter tires.
  • Spank Hex hub-equipped wheelsets seem to be a good value. lots of options there.
  • Boyd wheels look promising. they have some limitations though.
  • Hunt wheels have a good reputation.

Powerspline cranks suck. they work fine for as long as you need them to and then they are not worth the trouble to replace the BB when (not if) it blows up. my recommendation for a good value replacement is a Raceface Aeffect crankset with a Shimano bottom bracket. the Raceface cranks require a "cinch" chainring.

if you plan to make any of these updates, several people here have tools at home to do it (myself included). you'll probably wait for weeks for you LBS to get the labor done due to the Covid Bicycle Buying Bonanza of 2020, although service wait times might have started to slow down a bit lately. confirm wait time before dropping off your bike at a shop.

Edited by mack_turtle

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So I believe your hubs are made by a company called JoyTech and you can actually get replacement freehub bodies from any Specialized dealer. This would almost exclusively be done in cases where you are wanting to change the type of cassette driver standard (SRAM XD -> Shimano HG or HG -> XD). The degree of engagement (Forward pedal slack) would be the same between your current freehub and the one you'd replace it with. From the sound of your post, you are unhappy with the degree of engagement on your current hub so getting a replacement freehub body for your current hub isn't going to solve your problem. 

As Mr. Turtle alluded to, the price to physically lace a new hub into your current rim is typically not worth the cost considering you already have a fairly low end wheelset. For example, bicycle sport shop is going to charge you about $90 plus the cost of new spokes. A i9 1/1 hub costs $289 and a complete i9 1/1 rear wheel costs $450. Delta between just the hub and the entire wheel is $161. Keeping in mind that you're going to spend around $100 to re-lace the new hub, it may be worth spending the extra $60 to get a higher quality rim that comes with the complete wheel. 

Edited by WLemke
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Thanks guys and mack yes thats the bike...in green ....looks more dark od green in person.

I'm okay with the petal feel for now I'm just doing some upgrades to the drivetrain and was going to do that at the same time....Speaking of..

I would like the new wheel sets and bb to be compatible with the cassette and chain ring i am getting ... for the upgrade i got an NX cassette and GX chainring and I had them sent in to get a nickel coating...i also got gx shifter and derailleur...getting parts of those coated too..my buddy works for the company so got a deal...I'll start a different thread on that when I get them back

I guess first I need to see how these parts come back looking and ill go from there if they are good to go I would want to use them


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For what it's worth I'm a big I9 fan boy. I think in the long run you would save money buying the I9 101 wheel set. I have a set of I9 torch wheels that are on their 3rd frame. They came perfectly tentioned and (knock on wood) have never came out of true. Wheels in my opinion are the best upgrade you can make on a bike.

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5 hours ago, skinned elbows said:

I would like the new wheel sets and bb to be compatible with the cassette and chain ring i am getting ... for the upgrade i got an NX cassette and GX chainring and I had them sent in to get a nickel coating...i also got gx shifter and derailleur...getting parts of those coated too..my buddy works for the company so got a deal...I'll start a different thread on that when I get them back


 

Sanity check. Did you buy just a new chain ring or a new crank set? If the former, you don’t need a new BB. Just swap the new chain ring for the old. If the latter, the BB you’ll buy will be dependent on the new crank set. For example, if you bought a SRAM DUB GX crankset, your bike will accept a 68/73 BSA DUB BB

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Yes I just bought chainring and cassette to get coated in this...

https://www.magnaplate.com/coatings/nedox

I should have them back in about a month... it's not something the company normally does this is more of an experiment but I think they are gonna come back real nice.

Thanks for the help yall..looks I'll just upgrade wheels, not sure to what yet, and cranks, probably go gx, at a later date I was just looking for other things to easily somewhat cheaply upgrade while I had everything off getting a new chainring cassette and derailleur and shifter put on


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Followed the link. All I see is a spiky cock ring. But at least it "Resists bleach washdown solutions and lactic acid from dairy equipment." So that's cool I guess?

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Followed the link. All I see is a spiky cock ring. But at least it "Resists bleach washdown solutions and lactic acid from dairy equipment." So that's cool I guess?
I was sold at spiky cock ring...

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38 minutes ago, mack_turtle said:

SRAM makes shitty products that I don't want on my bike. there, I said it.

Yeah, but what about the spiky cock ring?

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SRAM makes shitty products that I don't want on my bike. there, I said it.

Mmmm, but rainbow/oil slick colored parts!

To each his own, but I prefer their shifting feel and only using my thumbs to shift.

Danny, enjoy your bike. Ride the crap out of it. Learn to ride it better. Learn how to push it to it’s limit. Replace broken parts when needed.

The Trail S 1/1 wheelset from i9 is a great value wheelset, but I really wouldn’t worry about high engagement hubs right now. I would look at replacing your BB and cranks in a few months after the stock powerspline bb is toasted. Get a two piece crank instead of the three piece style you have now. Having an external bearing bb will allow a larger diameter spindle that is fixed to one of the crank arms for a significantly stronger and stiffer crankset. Shimano, SRAM, and Raceface all have great cranksets that work well with a BSA BB like yours (I’m a fan of SRAM’s DUB BB and crank interface)

Keep your ride maintained well and then squeeze every ounce of performance out of it that you can.
…and always ride with people faster than you.


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…and always ride with people faster than you.
There are exceptions to this like SO or kids 

and....... sram twist shift is still the best.

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8 hours ago, Bamwa said:

and always ride with people faster than you.

But why would they want to ride with me, is the problem. I'm slow. No need to slow THEIR ride...

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18 minutes ago, jcarneytx said:

But why would they want to ride with me, is the problem. I'm slow. No need to slow THEIR ride...

That's why I ride alone 99% of the time. I don't want to be a boat anchor.

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Who said they would wait for you?

So, not literally “always” people…come on. But if you want to get faster find people faster than you and try and hold their wheel as long as you can until you pop off and get dropped. Your skills will grow, I promise.


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1 hour ago, Teamsloan said:

 But if you want to get faster find people faster than you and try and hold their wheel as long as you can until you pop off and get dropped. 

I tried this once on the road with team 787 on a Saturday Ride out of Mellow Johnny's.  I'm not 100% sure but there may have been a young MTB celebrity in that ride wearing basically gym clothes but kicking butt.  I lasted for a while before the elastic broke and I said by to them.   I agree on trying to ride with a faster group to learn and to make you faster.  Just let them know you'll eventually drop off and go on your own and you'll be OK, even if it's a drop ride it's nice to let them know.

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True, don’t make anyone worry about you I guess. I got in with the mojo R&I RLAA group, and got dropped frequently.


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Who said they would wait for you?

So, not literally “always” people…come on. But if you want to get faster find people faster than you and try and hold their wheel as long as you can until you pop off and get dropped. Your skills will grow, I promise.


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This is 100% true on many levels. Not only will you get faster, your technical skills will improve. Watching the rider in front of you attack a feature completely different than your intended route gives you confidence to try it. Also, you sometimes see the ‘wrong’ line which is just as important.

Generally most groups set an expectation of what they are going to do when you start. If they are out to hammer, they won’t wait very long for anyone. If it’s a chill ride, they might regroup at certain places and shoot the shit. Find a fast group on a slow day and try to hang.


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